[Resolved] Error Code U010100 - Lost Communication with Transmission Control Module (TCM)

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  • The fuse that's tripping is SB5, 15A
  • It connects to mechatronic, selector lever and ignition key withdrawal solenoid (two diagrams are linked by the green box)
  • There's no other connections to B488 connection point. B488 itself is somewhere within the loom, not at any connector or easy access spot.
  • You have disconnected likely the correct plugs from mechatronic and selector lever but the power goes to N376 and from there to F319 which I believe is again in selector lever assembly. I could not find the fitting location of the N376 solenoid - but it's a solenoid so the two wires is all it has
  • Considering above, I find it most likely to have a short to ground somewhere in red/yellow wire from SB5
  • If you have a multimeter remove fuse SB5 and measure resistance from it's red/yellow to chassis with plugs and preferably battery disconnected (should be high/infinite but most likely is low/zero)
  • Beyond that I think it's just awkward work to trace the red/yellow wire and find the problem spot. Or alternately run a new wiring - temporary wire run outside from bay to mechatronic and selector lever just might get you to switch to P. Have to locate that N376 as well though.
Thanks for the reply!
The N376 is the ignition key lock solenoid that is in the back of the lock to start the car, located on the steering column.
 
Took a new scan with vcds with the number 5 fuse ok, before i start the engine.

Before i start the engine, everything seems ok with no faults in dashboard and i can shift gears. As soon as i turn on the engine faults is showing in dashboard and the gear lever is stuck in park again with blown fuse nr 5.
 

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The N376 is the ignition key lock solenoid that is in the back of the lock to start the car, located on the steering column.

Yes, so it seems by googling, T6 manuals did not have the fitting location. I figured it was either that or the locking of the DSG selector when key is removed.
 
Took a new scan with vcds with the number 5 fuse ok, before i start the engine.

I find the low voltages interesting, especially the one reported by the ECU as the freeze frame at the same time clearly shows you have a charger connected.

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Hmm. With plugs connected a bad connection could cause resistance / voltage drop which would lead to higher than normal current -> tripped fuse. But if the fuse still trips with relevant plugs disconnected it pretty much has to be a short.
 
I find the low voltages interesting, especially the one reported by the ECU as the freeze frame at the same time clearly shows you have a charger connected.

View attachment 241606

Hmm. With plugs connected a bad connection could cause resistance / voltage drop which would lead to higher than normal current -> tripped fuse. But if the fuse still trips with relevant plugs disconnected it pretty much has to be a short.
The fuse gets blown also without the charger connected and all plugs connected.
 
View attachment 241591

View attachment 241592


  • The fuse that's tripping is SB5, 15A
  • It connects to mechatronic, selector lever and ignition key withdrawal solenoid (two diagrams are linked by the green box)
  • There's no other connections to B488 connection point. B488 itself is somewhere within the loom, not at any connector or easy access spot.
  • You have disconnected likely the correct plugs from mechatronic and selector lever but the power goes to N376 and from there to F319 which I believe is again in selector lever assembly. I could not find the fitting location of the N376 solenoid - but it's a solenoid so the two wires is all it has
  • Considering above, I find it most likely to have a short to ground somewhere in red/yellow wire from SB5
  • If you have a multimeter remove fuse SB5 and measure resistance from it's red/yellow to chassis with plugs and preferably battery disconnected (should be high/infinite but most likely is low/zero)
  • Beyond that I think it's just awkward work to trace the red/yellow wire and find the problem spot. Or alternately run a new wiring - temporary wire run outside from bay to mechatronic and selector lever just might get you to switch to P. Have to locate that N376 as well though.
When measuring resistance from red/yellow wire to chassis i get a reading between 1300-1800. Does it showing a broken wire?
 
When measuring resistance from red/yellow wire to chassis i get a reading between 1300-1800. Does it showing a broken wire?

With plugs and solenoid connected I presume? 1300ohm at 12.4 or so volts is only about 10mA, certainly not enough to trip any fuses and sounds normal (with the disclaimer that I haven't measured these).

If the wire was broken (cut) but not shorted anywhere you would see megaohm range resistance. Short on the other hand would show as near to zero, somewhere between 0 and 1 ohm.
 
I had the same error code but different fuse


Local independent (Leziate drove garage near Kings Lynn) traced the fault back to a chafed wire.
 
I had the same error code but different fuse


Local independent (Leziate drove garage near Kings Lynn) traced the fault back to a chafed wire.
Do you remember where the wire was broken?
 
I had the same error code but different fuse


Local independent (Leziate drove garage near Kings Lynn) traced the fault back to a chafed wire.
Do you remember where the wire was broken?
 
Found the fault! The wiring cable that's feeding the dsg, starter and other parts is laying in a tight spot between the starter and the gearbox. There is a hole in the cable and several wires had fastened to the gearbox.

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Do you remember where the wire was broken?
Seems you've resolved the problem

I only saw a couple of photos on the mechanics phone of the damage to my wires, but your description looks and sounds very similar to what he described to me. I know he replaced the damaged wire(s) and rerouted them so it didn't happen again, touching a very large piece of wood here
 
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