Rough idle when cold

[n10n]

I questioned that when I bought it and he said his mechanic said the seam of the bottle is the max line, I did t think this was the case so googled it and the information is inconclusive, as in people arguing the seam is the max and other people saying the second line is the max?

Should be fine if you took that picture when engine was warm? This is what the manual says - checking and topping to be done when the engine is cold

Service coolant level

Just had a service, saw this- is it normal? I haven’t driven it yet at all? Cheers

www.t6forum.com

 

[TheGrapeEscape]

I have recently purchased a LWB t6.1 highline 150 manual, it’s covered just over 100k on a 2020 plate as a commercial vehicle. Unfortunately the history is patchy but I took a chance on it as it was within my limited budget.

I noticed the following day after purchase on the first start up of the day it runs very rough, idle blips up and down and it sounds like it’s only firing on 3 cylinders. I thought it might just be because it needed a good run but unfortunately not, after a few good runs it’s no better if anything possibly worse.

It drives spot on pulls well and once driven only to the end of the street the idle is fine, I’ve done a lot of reading around and can’t find anything specific to this. The only thing I’ve seen that I have slight concern about is the dual mass flywheel being mentioned as a possible cause. My concern for this is because the previous owner said he had the clutch done about 6 month ago, I’m just thinking it could have been a poor job or misdiagnosed flywheel issue. Also on a couple of occasions it’s popped out of first when I’ve been setting of from the lights, I just assumed this was because I wasn’t used to the vehicle and hadn’t fully engaged the gear but now I’m wondering?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I’m based in Leeds so any advice on a good local place to take it would be useful too, ideally not one of the places that seem to think you have money to burn because you own a transporter.

Thanks.

Hiya.

My Dual mass is on its way out, but I don't get rough idle. What I do get is the knocking sound on cold start which disappears once I drive half a mile or less. Drives perfect and pulls like a train, but I have that rough sound on start up.

 

[merdzo]

Hi all,

is there any development in finding a solution?
I have probably same issue. Runs fine for the first 30 seconds then goes to lumpy/misfire running until it warms up. Then no problem.
Interestingly if I disconnect MAF or EGR it works nice immediately. MAF new, HP EGR new, LP EGR new, Injectors rebuilt.
I dont want to steel the topic as my car is Passat with CRLB engine (probably the same) so I would just like to ask Chill200sx if he solved his issue.

br

 

[Sirtw@]

Yes, sounds like it's not running on all four cylinder.


Perhaps not the cause but rather a consequence. I believe the metallic "clunks" are from flywheel pendulums hitting their limiters - because of uneven running.

What the engine code - something like CXF-, CXH-, DNA-? It's on the sticker below
View attachment 245516

Somewhat similar symptoms here -

Lumpy T6 - Triggers Broom! Misfire & Vibration under 1500rpm.

DXX - The van is going to a specialist on the south coast on the 14th of August (Earliest they could get me in), he seams confident that its a rod, (as he has done a few before) but is going to do a strip down and go from there, nobody near me has enough knowledge on these engines for me to...

www.t6forum.com

New to group and just watched this video, mine is exactly the same after about 5 minutes it's fine then drives well. The glow plug light comes on and flashes when driving but seems perfectly fine. I have a '17 plate Automatic and mileage only 38k

 

[merdzo]

I have to reply here.
In my case new, new Bosch (OEM) MAF sensor solved issue. MAF sensor was the first thing I replaced. At the time I purchased one that was on stock at that moment (FACET) but it just wasnt ok.