Should I or Shouldn't I ? - BiTdi EGR worry!!

[B.different]

I was the same as you but I ended up buying one with 90k on it and had no problems with it (touch wood) and love it. Mine doesn't like Quantum oil and will drink it faster than I can put it in. I changed to Millers Oil and it only uses very little now. I've only topped it up twice in 12 months. One major problem I did find with the engine is that it needs a remap as pulling out of junctions is very very lethargic and sometimes dangerous. A pendle map cured this problem, improved drivability and more importantly improved the mpg as your not having to clog it.

 

[BognorMotors]

We haven't seen an issue with the very latest engines - I think the latest we have replaced an engine on is a 2015 kombi

 

[venables]

Mine was registered in May 2016, built around Feb 2016 from what I see on component dates. It’s a Rev D EGR unit from build, CFCA unit (180ps)
As @mmi has pointed out it’s probably a 204ps, completely different animal. Check the engine code on the V5 doc’. Hopefully the dealer can read.

Hi New to the site just cut open the EGR off my 2016 T6.1 180 BI turbo CFCA engine after engine failure it is a D suffix supposed to be ok and not prone to corrosion as the previous models think again badly corroded with parts of fins missing almost corroded through the water jacket engine bores worn out

Hmm... The EGR (cooler) issue before version "D=good" was only on engines (code CFCA) built before approx. mid-2015.
View attachment 119785

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Actually I'd expect to see a totally different engine (code CXEB, also known as 204PS engine) in a 2017 van - the engine code is on configuration label (under dash). Or just post a picture of the engine.

Hi New to the site just cut open the EGR off my 2016 T6.1 180 BI turbo CFCA engine after engine failure it is a D suffix supposed to be ok and not prone to corrosion as the previous models think again badly corroded with parts of fins missing almost corroded through the water jacket engine bores worn out

 

[T6Andy]

The problem with EGR failure is that when you see symptoms, then it’s too late. If it has Rev D it ‘should’ be ok. If it doesn’t, walk away.

Nothing wrong with euro 6 engine, just some of the people driving them. No point getting an older dirtier one if a newer cleaner one is available within budget.
DPF seems to be biggest complaint, but learn to listen to the van and you’ll be fine.

How do you know which EGR Rev edition that you have in your t6?

I have had my t6 for 6 yrs this March it has the CXEB 204 engine. I’ve had blocked dpf and had it cleaned out and contemplating blanking the EGR off….knocking out the insides of the DPF and having both coded out. It’s got 49k miles and FVWSH.

 

[venables]

Hi If you are about to buy a 180 t6 my advice is to leave it where it is as they are all doomed to failure unless they have been fitted with a new engine and the EGR has been blanked off from new people are under the misconception that the version of cooler makes them good or bad all the coolers on the 180 are bad because they all corrode and destroy the engine.

 

[T6Andy]

Hi If you are about to buy a 180 t6 my advice is to leave it where it is as they are all doomed to failure unless they have been fitted with a new engine and the EGR has been blanked off from new people are under the misconception that the version of cooler makes them good or bad all the coolers on the 180 are bad because they all corrode and destroy the engine.

What about the t6 204 EGRs?

 

[venables]

What about the t6 204 EGRs?

I currently have 2 T6 204 and both have had EGR failures due to the water jacket of the EGR cooler corroding through if picked up early is an easy fix and should not cause damage to the engine both were done under warranty but if you are unlucky and don't recognize the coolant loss as a problem and keep topping it up it will eventually cause damage and could lead to the engine being hydraulicked causing major damage

 

[T6Andy]

I currently have 2 T6 204 and both have had EGR failures due to the water jacket of the EGR cooler corroding through if picked up early is an easy fix and should not cause damage to the engine both were done under warranty but if you are unlucky and don't recognize the coolant loss as a problem and keep topping it up it will eventually cause damage and could lead to the engine being hydraulicked causing major damage

At what mileage did they fail?

 

[venables]

At what mileage did they fail?

Hi One failed at 2700 just 3 days before the warranty expired the other failed at 60,000 4 years old but had an extended warranty

 

[T6Andy]

I think I’m opting to have the EGR blanked and coded out, will also look into the dpf being knocked through and coded out too, so it looks present for MoT purposes.

 

[venables]

Hi, it all depends on how they are driven if it is mostly around town then you will have problems with DPF fouling so best to blank and map out EGR then no worries.
Also if you knock out the DPF you do get a power boost and they do more MPG if you drive them more on the motorway and hard on the main roads they run much better with fewer EGR and DPF issues without doing anything to them and they are still legal.
Mine are 6 and 5 years old now with only the faulty cooler issue on both they would have been changed by now but you can only get a 150 PS thanks but no.

 

[T6Andy]

Thanks for the info, I commonly do short journeys with occasional long one which is causing the dpf issues, if I blank the EGR does that stop the cooler issue from happening and affecting the engine for definite? Also will that EGR blanking alone help the dpf from clogging again?

 

[venables]

Hi if you blank off the EGR that will stop the possibility of water entering the cylinders should the EGR cooler leak and it should reduce the amount of soot buildup in the DPF when the engine is idling as the oxygen-to-fuel ratio should be higher when idling giving a cleaner burn but you do need to get the EGR mapped out.