Split Charge Woes...

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looking at this diagram i found i think the 1a ignition fuse might be a candidate for the trouble? but where the hell would it be?
The 1A fuse is not your issue. You are only seeing 0.7V on the CTEK input which means the starter battery isn't connected. If it is wired correctly there is a wire directly from starter battery to CTEK post A, via a fuse. This means that you should have 12v+ at the CTEK on post A.
Trace the wires from post A and find out where they go (there shouldn't be two of them but there are....) Start by taking the cover off of the fuse below the CTEK and measure voltage on both sides of it. then work back towards the starter battery (assuming this fuse is not the issue)
 
How are you checking the main fuse at the starter battery? What type of fuse it is? Have you checked that the two nuts holding the fuse in place are tight?
 
How are you checking the main fuse at the starter battery? What type of fuse it is? Have you checked that the two nuts holding the fuse in place are tight?

cheers, I've checked the fuse at the starter this morning with a multimeter. its the type with a wire held by two nuts. the voltage is 14.4 across both sides of the terminals.
i then rechecked the same type of fuse which is below the ctek in the photo - its reading 7.0V at both sides, and the A output of the ctek is also 7V. i rechecked this a few times - its exactly half of what it should be???
 
cheers, I've checked the fuse at the starter this morning with a multimeter. its the type with a wire held by two nuts. the voltage is 14.4 across both sides of the terminals.
i then rechecked the same type of fuse which is below the ctek in the photo - its reading 7.0V at both sides, and the A output of the ctek is also 7V. i rechecked this a few times - its exactly half of what it should be???
 
Find out where that second feed into the fuse under the CTEK goes. One should be direct from your starter battery. No idea where the other one could be from. This may be your issue. If possible separate the two cables and measure the voltage on the one from the starter battery with nothing else attached to it. It should obviously read at 14.4v or thereabouts. If it does, the issue is something to do with the other cable. Find out where it goes and let us know and we can help. If you still don’t have 12v then the issue is between the point you are measuring at and the starter battery so you’ll need to trace the cable and see if there is something else attached to it or its damaged or something.

It may also be worth checking that the cable attached to post A is actually the one that is connected to the starter battery. It’s a long shot but the cables at the CTEK could have been mixed up somehow.
 
Find out where that second feed into the fuse under the CTEK goes. One should be direct from your starter battery. No idea where the other one could be from. This may be your issue. If possible separate the two cables and measure the voltage on the one from the starter battery with nothing else attached to it. It should obviously read at 14.4v or thereabouts. If it does, the issue is something to do with the other cable. Find out where it goes and let us know and we can help. If you still don’t have 12v then the issue is between the point you are measuring at and the starter battery so you’ll need to trace the cable and see if there is something else attached to it or its damaged or something.

It may also be worth checking that the cable attached to post A is actually the one that is connected to the starter battery. It’s a long shot but the cables at the CTEK could have been mixed up somehow.

cheers, i think its time to bring in a professional..... i cant even get near the wires to see where they go....
 
There is clearly a bad connection somewhere. I would give all the cables good tug close to all the lugs that connect into the fuse holders. I am guessing that the second cable into the fuse below the Ctek is the spur off to the Sargent unit. Either that or the Sargent has the supply from the van battery and the Ctek has been spurred of the Sargent. In what order were all the components fitted? Is it a case that the Sargent was fitted originally and the Ctek added later?
 
There is clearly a bad connection somewhere. I would give all the cables good tug close to all the lugs that connect into the fuse holders. I am guessing that the second cable into the fuse below the Ctek is the spur off to the Sargent unit. Either that or the Sargent has the supply from the van battery and the Ctek has been spurred of the Sargent. In what order were all the components fitted? Is it a case that the Sargent was fitted originally and the Ctek added later?
thanks. when you say sargent unit do you mean the CBE PC-100? the spur off the CTek to the pc-100 makes sense as it is reading a low starter battery at all times when the engine is off.
it was all done at one time by the conversion company
the converter is at the other end of the country however....
 
Yes, sorry, the CBE PC-100. Getting two threads mixed up! Happy to take a look at it if you are anywhere near me, Kidderminster?
 
You are at the end of your capabilities bud and need to get it checked out. You've done everything you can, call someone in or visit @travelvolts
 
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If this all started when the starter battery was changed, the likelihood is the connection at the starter battery is the cuplrit. If not that, then something close by that has been disturbed. Double check all the connections at that end to ensure they are all good and that there isn't a loose or intermittent connection there.
 
Travelvolts , is there a reason why there is 2 fuse boxes coming from his starter battery to the ctek A post and not just one , I was only showed one from starter battery and then the same fuse box between ctek out post to leasure battery What symptoms would you have if someone was to acadently wire the ctek in post and out post round the wrong way ? , Just brainstorming here lol
 
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