Stable 12v 15A power supply for LED strip lights

paddy26

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I'm adding 3 "zones" of strip lights to my camper:
  1. 5m addressable LED strips (WS2815) - 12v, 90w, 7.5A
  2. 5m addressable LED strips (WS2815) - 12v, 45w, 3.75A
  3. 5m RGBCCTLED strips (5050) - 12v, ~45w, ~3.75A
Total: ~13a required

They will be controlled from an Arduino Mega and at a later stage I will probably move to a esp32 for power and connectivity reasons.


Existing setup:
  • 100ah leisure battery - currently only supplying fridge and diesel heater
  • Renogy dcc30s charger
  • Victron bp100
I'm looking for input on the best way to supply a clean 12v 15A.

I don't think I need a boost converter as the bp100 will protect the battery and the lights.

I think I need a buck converter to remove the spikes above 12v. The 15A buck converters I have seen state a min input voltage of 14.5v(due to dropout voltage) so I think I need a buck converter for each zone.
I was looking at these which ends up at £60 for 3: KUMA 12v TV Power Lead - Voltage Stabiliser Adapter with Cigarette Lighter Plug Input - Fully Regulated Adaptor Surge Protector Regulator for LED LCD SAT NAV Satellite Navigation Television - 12 volts https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008DCO...t_i_6NFTPP68MT5A86DPP10D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

In my code I would limit the 1st LED strip so it doesn't exceed 6A.


Another option I was considering is a 12v power bank, as this would already regulate the 12v and has a usb port to power the esp32. I would just need to consider where to mount it and investigate if there is a way to remote power it on/off from the esp32 to avoid draining the battery when not in use. This one can supply 12v 15A: Portable Power Station, 72000mAh/266Wh Power Bank CPAP Backup Battery Pack Supply, 12V DC with LED Flashlight, Solar Generator for CPAP for Outdoor Travel RV/Van Camping Emergency https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B092VVH...t_i_QTYMKYKHNP8DSNFX5Z4N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Does anyone have any other suggestions or advice? Has anyone a similar setup?
 
Hi,

I used 8-36V to DC12V Auto Boost Buck Power Converter Voltage Stabilizer Regulator 120W | eBay to drive about 50W of led strips through dimmers. Maybe two of those stabilizers would be enough for your use case. Has been working fine and in my tests the stabilizer didn’t heat up all that much - obviously I’m quite far from full 120W blast. Also I didn’t run very long tests since the plan never was to run full brightness for extended periods, just to have proper light available when needed. Normally when used they’re dimmed way down.

03121EB4-7467-4143-A9BF-0D2A6C351638.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hi,

I used 8-36V to DC12V Auto Boost Buck Power Converter Voltage Stabilizer Regulator 120W | eBay to drive about 50W of led strips through dimmers. Maybe two of those stabilizers would be enough for your use case. Has been working fine and in my tests the stabilizer didn’t heat up all that much - obvously I’m quite far from full 120W blast. Also I didn’t run very long tests since the plan never was to run full brightness for extended periods, just to have proper light available when needed. Normally when used they’re dimmed way down.

View attachment 143537
Thanks for the reply. That looks promising. I'm hoping to do a proper test at the weekend to work out actually Amp requirements. I expect I also won't need full brightness.
 
Oh and regarding switching, not sure if it would fit your use case but I’m using Votronic Switch Unit 40 to switch entire leisure circuitry off when not in use. It’s a mechanical bistable relay with 12V control feed and just couple of mA self consumption when on, zero when off. Also has a manual mechanical override if the control feed would not work for some reason. The minor bad thing is a relatively loud switching click.


E98A944C-2A4D-46E2-8F88-FD604E83BF5D.jpeg
 
Oh and regarding switching, not sure if it would fit your use case but I’m using Votronic Switch Unit 40 to switch entire leisure circuitry off when not in use. It’s a mechanical bistable relay with 12V control feed and just couple of mA self consumption when on, zero when off. Also has a manual mechanical override if the control feed would not work for some reason. The minor bad thing is a relatively loud switching click.


View attachment 143549
Thanks. I will probably use the remote connector on the bp100 as my master switch. I haven't decided yet if I will go with a physical switch or use the esp32, or both.
I will power the LED strips through relays and use the esp32 for switching.
 
A DC-dc, power supply. Boost/buck converter would be best.


Like the one listed above.


More info :





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