That is my van in the post above and I have already given my initial opinion of the improvements in ride quality and handling in a separate thread.

In terms of consistency in relation to wheels to wheel arch, I have had a bit if time to do a few measurements and the results are as follows. (measurements are centre of wheel to top of wheel arch +/- a couple of mm).

FOS 405
FNS 410
RNS 410
ROS 410

Measurement from the top of cill, at the jacking point, to ground,

FOS 263
ROS 301
FNS 263
RNS 298

I understand that these sets of measurements are slightly at odds with each other, but that may be down to slight imperfections in my garage floor.

My van is an empty swb T30 kombi sat on 19" wheels and CRS fitted the lightest -40mm H&R springs with Koni Active dampers.
 
Problem with measuring sill to ground is it brings in factors like tyre pressure and wear which will affect the readings.
 
Problem with measuring sill to ground is it brings in factors like tyre pressure and wear which will affect the readings.

Correct. But, as I said, these measurements are at odds with the wheel to cill measurements which can reflect this.
 
Colin at Coco Kustoms in Edinburgh hadnt installed this kit b 4 so was alittle more expensive than maybe it should have been but still an excellent job.

In terms of its ride height it originally was lowered 40mm obviously taking into account the fact that there is bigger wheels on it. For the winter..colin raised it backup 30mm and looking at it now it still looks really good good with the added ability of going full lock without anything rubbing and if it snows in the Highlands where I sometimes go I will be able to install An autosock on the front wheels. The stands kit is a little harsh but that's because it's a simple cheap coilover as opposed to a more expensive technologically advanced shock but since I've raised it up 30mm I swear it's more comfier. which is a good thing
 
Colin at Coco Kustoms in Edinburgh hadnt installed this kit b 4 so was alittle more expensive than maybe it should have been but still an excellent job.

In terms of its ride height it originally was lowered 40mm obviously taking into account the fact that there is bigger wheels on it. For the winter..colin raised it backup 30mm and looking at it now it still looks really good good with the added ability of going full lock without anything rubbing and if it snows in the Highlands where I sometimes go I will be able to install An autosock on the front wheels. The stands kit is a little harsh but that's because it's a simple cheap coilover as opposed to a more expensive technologically advanced shock but since I've raised it up 30mm I swear it's more comfier. which is a good thing
Thanks for the info!! Have u got a recent pic so I can show mechanic? Having fitted Tuesday hopefully
 
I also bought the H&R Arbs to stiffen up the van which helps as well. But i will probably replace the stance next yr for Koni comfort sport shocks and hr springs for best package..best thing about all this is if i sell the van and buy another one..i can swap out the upgraded gear and replace with the standard stuff in my basement.
 
Def better in corners..but in straight line..yeah no benefits. Depending what springs and shocks u get..u might find u dont need them..thus saving some cash dor something else...its all very subjective. Good luck
 
Problem with measuring sill to ground is it brings in factors like Tyre pressure and wear which will affect the readings.
Yes the tyre pressure would make a difference to the readings ( we assume Tyre pressures are checked and correct ) but the rake is far more important than what the wheel arches looks . A van with the rear dropped too much and lower than the front causes excessive wheel spin on the more powerful F W D vans . The correct stance will always see a slight rake forward 20 to 30 mm the wheel arch gap should be bigger in front . Obviously this isn't the desired look. I have just checked a standard van and it was 50 mm higher on the rear .
Most owners would benefit more from a decent shock than anti roll bars because a good shock limits roll and pitch , ARB only help roll .
 
Yes the tyre pressure would make a difference to the readings ( we assume Tyre pressures are checked and correct ) but the rake is far more important than what the wheel arches looks . A van with the rear dropped too much and lower than the front causes excessive wheel spin on the more powerful F W D vans . The correct stance will always see a slight rake forward 20 to 30 mm the wheel arch gap should be bigger in front . Obviously this isn't the desired look. I have just checked a standard van and it was 50 mm higher on the rear .
Most owners would benefit more from a decent shock than anti roll bars because a good shock limits roll and pitch , ARB only help roll .

I wouldnt argue with any of that. I would just add I guess that VW have the rear so much higher because it us designed to be loaded up which will lower the rear. If they didnt start high enough then the front would end up higher than the rear, causing the wheelspin etc.
 
Stance+ Ultras (because van is a T32) arrived and both them and van are with garage for fitting during the week. Brand new bigger alloys and tyres also going on.

Can’t wait to see what it looks/drives like.
 
Mine is sitting so high at moment due to camper conversion like 100 at front and 80 rear, hopefully the mechanic will sort, as I hate how it looks!!
I have a camper conversion (T28) that weighs in at 2400kg. The rear spring is at its highest ride setting and it’s slightly compressed. The front is lowered about halfway down.
When I spoke to Venom Motorsport about this, they commented that my van was rather heavy and sent me taller springs to allow me to lift it. I’ve not had them fitted yet.


Is it a big job to fit ARBs?

It’s a few more hours labour, so factor that in if you’re paying a garage.

Apparently the book time for replacing suspension and ARBs is something like 6.5 hours..
 
I wanted to continue this thread after having a little more insight into the Stance + and other cheaper options , so yesterday I agreed to fit a set of Stance coil overs to a customers van ( he supplied them ) I wasn't keen to do it but thought that it would help me decide if these things are viable or not .

My findings are as follows and I wont comment on good or bad just yet .

1, In the box they do look good value
2, The C spanner is about as useful as a Chocolate oven glove
3, No instructions but there again not many suppliers give them , hard to know which way up the rear spring and perch go and this one didn't fit . SO -
4 , I had to take a grinder to the rear spring support as the adjuster wouldn't fit , Not a fault of the kit though .
5 , The installation went well no other issues .
6, Ride quality a little choppy and no refined damping here but lets be honest for the price ?? it is ok on reasonable road surfaces
7 I had the vehicle lowered approx. 60 mm so sort of in the middle of the range settings .

Now the troubled items for me .

1 the ANTI roll bar tie rod mounting bracket is lowered about 30 + mm , this has been done to allow for excessive lowering of the spring perch , but I am not sure if this would cause excessive horizontal forces on the A R B instead of normal up and down forces . I have had plenty issues with Race cars having this problem and the drop links and ,mounting brackets were breaking often.
2 The Anti roll bar link bracket isn't welded exactly 90 degrees to the locater plate that slides in to the hub . this means the bracket doesn't sit exactly as it should and could put a pre load force on the Anti roll bar . ( when the front wheels are heading straight ahead .)
3 The diameter of the front Stance Shock is only 50 mm and the standard original T 5 T 6 shock is 60 mm, so there will be a lot less oil inside which may cause premature overheating of the oil . ( shock oil can get as hot as engine oil in extreme cases )
4. The front shocks have a piston rod that is 3mm smaller in diameter than a standard shock . the front shocks take enormous forces on the shaft during heavy cornering and this is probably one safety concern . ( Stance 22 mm standard shock shaft 25 mm )
5 The Rear damper ( shock ) on the Stance kit had a shaft bigger than standard . On a non McPherson strut shock the shaft diameter is normally smaller as the bigger the shaft the more oil the valves have to contend with and more oil moving more heat build up /.


Important to note that one of the strictest Vehicle standards for Cars and car accessories is the German TUV . unfortunately shock absorbers don't need TUV approval according a large shock manufacturer I spoke to ( I haven't verified this unfortunately ) .

So to balance up the comments made earlier in this thread and confirm that you get what you pay for in life.
Don't know how even the Far east can make these things for this money ???
 
Back
Top