T6.1 Fusebox SC access?

Good to know about that trick. As mine was still in warranty I opted for the piggyback for switched live additions as then by unplugging the piggyback technically it is not connected to any vw circuits.
 
Mine also came with relays however to add a degree of protection I used a perm feed from under the passenger seat and then fed this to a new relay which then provides a feed to a small fusebox and then all the relays for the seating are fed from this. It is likely I overly complicated it however I wanted to do it that way.

Under passenger seat is a a fusebox with lots of spare slots. The busbar underneath feeds many of the vacant slots on one side so you use the fuse I just undid the fusebox, slid the purple locking device and then added a new cable and VW insert - you can buy them from various places although I have them at home as I tend to buy an old VW fusebox from a cheap model and repurpose the tails.
Thanks. The relays you have used, do they turn the heated seats off when engine turns off? If so any idea what they are and where I can get them?
 
Thanks. The relays you have used, do they turn the heated seats off when engine turns off? If so any idea what they are and where I can get them?
They are just regular relays as they supply the power to the heated seat kit which has its own relays.
 
Hoping this helps
IMG_4520.jpeg
Pull the Red tab away from the fusebox

IMG_4521.jpeg
Push red tab away from you and pull connector out to the left

IMG_4522.jpeg
Slides out- make sure you’ve already disconnected the battery!

IMG_4523.jpeg
Release the 3 clips circled while pushing main fuse box from the rear

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Fusebox releases to give access to the rear

IMG_4525.jpeg
Pull purple locking mechanism down

IMG_4526.jpeg
It only moves down about 1 mm

IMG_4527.jpeg
Locking mechanism view from rear

Locking mechanism controls access to fuses 11 - 54 inclusive

Hope that helps :thumbsup:
 
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Hoping this helps
View attachment 230559
Pull the Red tab away from the fusebox

View attachment 230560
Push red tab away from you and pull connector out to the left

View attachment 230561
Slides out- make sure you’ve already disconnected the battery!

View attachment 230562
Release the 3 clips circled while pushing main fuse box from the rear

View attachment 230563
Fusebox releases to give access to the rear

View attachment 230564
Pull purple locking mechanism down

View attachment 230565
It only moves down about 1 mm

View attachment 230566
Locking mechanism view from rear

Locking mechanism controls access to fuses 11 - 54 inclusive

Hope that helps :thumbsup:
Thanks! Have you managed to remove yours from the dash?

I haven’t managed to get mine out so was just going to use piggybacks in the front face and use an empty slot like No.41.
 
Thanks! Have you managed to remove yours from the dash?

I haven’t managed to get mine out so was just going to use piggybacks in the front face and use an empty slot like No.41.
No not yet, photos are from a fusebox pulled out of a wrecked van
 
No not yet, photos are from a fusebox pulled out of a wrecked van
Oh ace, legend cheers!

My fear is if I slide the purple tab with it insitu and accidentally pull other wires out the back when trying to get the new wires in then I’m properly screwed. So if I can’t get the box out fully then I’ll piggyback from the front and be done with it.
 
Oh ace, legend cheers!

My fear is if I slide the purple tab with it insitu and accidentally pull other wires out the back when trying to get the new wires in then I’m properly screwed. So if I can’t get the box out fully then I’ll piggyback from the front and be done with it.
No worries, and don’t worry about the purple tab and connectors falling out! The purple tab stops accidental removal for all pins and holds them tight. To remove a connector you would also need a de pinning tool to release the two sprung tabs that each pin has. The connectors can’t be removed without this.

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See the two little tabs where I’ve highlighted red
 
DubHaus covered your concern about them falling out.

I use one of these however you often get similar thing in the trim tool sets you can buy

 
I’ve managed to get the fuse box out far enough so I can access fuse 41 from the rear and also pull the purple tab down. But typically the repair cables I bought don’t seem to fit in these slots.

IMG_8273.png


They are ok for standard size fuse slots but not the midi fuse slots. Although I was led to believe the connections were the same size.

Anyone got any spare close to Cheshire? Think they should look like the below…

IMG_8272.png
 
There are two different crimp terminals. “Box” type for the smallest fuse and “finger” type for standard size fuses
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Is this the correct terminal ?
they look very similar but are different size to VW type. VW terminal is face is 4.3mmx3.1mm and the MTA style is 4.5mmx3.7mm not a lot in it but enough that it doesn’t fit

Just tried one and definitely doesn’t go inimage.jpg
MTA style on left, VW on right
 
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they look very similar but are different size to VW type. VW terminal is face is 4.3mmx3.1mm and the MTA style is 4.5mmx3.7mm not a lot in it but enough that it doesn’t fit

Just tried one and definitely doesn’t go inView attachment 230778
MTA style on left, VW on right
Thanks very much for trying.

Any idea where I can get the VW terminals from? Do I have to go direct to VW?
 
Ah damn it! Yeah it’s the box type I need. Anybody got 2 spare?
Where you based? I’m in folkestone Kent and got a fair few of all sizes as well I tend to buy an old fuse box and canabilse so always got loads left over
 
That first one doesn’t look like a successful crimp.
image.jpg
image.jpg
Should look like this
 
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