Keep us updated on this please Pauly as I would like to add this to mine if its possible.
One of the problems I mighthave is my phone is one of the fold type.
It would be good to know if that would slide into the charger..
T6.1 wireless charging retrofit?
- Thread starter alis
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Keep us updated on this please Pauly as I would like to add this to mine if its possible.
One of the problems I mighthave is my phone is one of the fold type.
It would be good to know if that would slide into the charger..
Got the last piece of the puzzle yesterday so hoping to have a play with this today
The two trim pieces from VW are pictured below
and the parts clicked together looks like this
will get some wires out later and see what happens, when im finished i will do a proper guide with all the part numbers etc listed but so far i have spent well under hundred quid
The two trim pieces from VW are pictured below
and the parts clicked together looks like this
will get some wires out later and see what happens, when im finished i will do a proper guide with all the part numbers etc listed but so far i have spent well under hundred quid
Hey Pauly at some point would you mind takeing an internal measurement of the thickness of phone that would slide in. I have a folding phone I need for work and the thickness of that with a case is around 25mm
I'm keeping my fingers crossed it will go in..
Thanks in advance..
I'm keeping my fingers crossed it will go in..
Thanks in advance..
It’s very hard to measure but will give it a go, the space looks quite small but internally it’s flexible so phones are an interference fit, iPhone 11 slides in out freely and just makes contact but my 13 pro in a full chunky case is very tight I guess it may soften with time, wil add some more photos in a bit of the internal makeup
Just had a quick play with this to see if i could get the charging function working, im not really that fussed about the boosted GSM signal just wanted to get the wireless charging function working so i stuck 12v across the two power pins to the module and it does not charge 
Heres the wiring diagram
I have the R265 interface but not the J984 signal amplifier, i had hoped that 12v across pins 1 and 4 would have given me charging capabilities but seems not
1 - 12v
2 - Signal T12n/5
3 - Signal T12n/11
4 - 0v
Next step is going to be connecting the signal pins into the 12 pin grey connector on the back of the headunit, i am hoping this signal will 'activate' the interface but as we can see from the wiring diagram these signal cables (and also power cables) are shared with the J984 signal amplifier so its feasible this will be required also ??
To move forwards with this now means i need a couple extra wires (that i dont have with me) and also need to get some dash trims off to get at the stereo which is something i havent done yet in my new van so thats the end of it for today, will get some more wires sorted another day and try to get some time to get the stereo out at some point
Heres the wiring diagram
I have the R265 interface but not the J984 signal amplifier, i had hoped that 12v across pins 1 and 4 would have given me charging capabilities but seems not
1 - 12v
2 - Signal T12n/5
3 - Signal T12n/11
4 - 0v
Next step is going to be connecting the signal pins into the 12 pin grey connector on the back of the headunit, i am hoping this signal will 'activate' the interface but as we can see from the wiring diagram these signal cables (and also power cables) are shared with the J984 signal amplifier so its feasible this will be required also ??
To move forwards with this now means i need a couple extra wires (that i dont have with me) and also need to get some dash trims off to get at the stereo which is something i havent done yet in my new van so thats the end of it for today, will get some more wires sorted another day and try to get some time to get the stereo out at some point
Had a quick search around online and found the other control module for £36 in germany so i have ordered it, its a bit of a punt as its an older module but a new one is around £300 which is way more than i am willing to spend on this
Will get the signal cables connected to the headunit and see if that makes a difference then if required i will try connected the amplifier (with no aerial) and see if that helps, by that point i will be commited and will prob just buy an aerial and lead, we will see ?
Will get the signal cables connected to the headunit and see if that makes a difference then if required i will try connected the amplifier (with no aerial) and see if that helps, by that point i will be commited and will prob just buy an aerial and lead, we will see ?
Some of the Chinese replica charger units look like they just have live and earth connections.
￡8.67 | For VW Golf 7 7.5 Tiguan L wireless charger module 5NA 980 611 B 5NA980611
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￡8.67 | For VW Golf 7 7.5 Tiguan L wireless charger module 5NA 980 611 B 5NA980611
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Looking at the way thatconnector is wired, could it just be that pin 2 and pin 3 also need 12v to get it working??Some of the Chinese replica charger units look like they just have live and earth connections.
￡8.67 | For VW Golf 7 7.5 Tiguan L wireless charger module 5NA 980 611 B 5NA980611
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From some of the Russian installs it appears pin 2 is a switched live/ignition/radio on. Putting 12v to it makes it always on. Like the Chinese wiring
Yes, I will have another play and figure out the best connection method, it would seem pin 1 is a permanent supply to feed the charging and pin 2 is a control circuit so it activates when the radio powers up
I don’t use my van as a daily and it regularly doesn’t move for days so I’m obviously concerned about leaving it powered all the time, at this stage my plan is to connect all 4 pins and have the signal pair connected to the radio so it works as intended and doesn’t add any extra standby battery drain
Alternatively pin 2 could be connected to an ignition supply to achieve the same thing but I prefer the factory style if poss
I don’t use my van as a daily and it regularly doesn’t move for days so I’m obviously concerned about leaving it powered all the time, at this stage my plan is to connect all 4 pins and have the signal pair connected to the radio so it works as intended and doesn’t add any extra standby battery drain
Alternatively pin 2 could be connected to an ignition supply to achieve the same thing but I prefer the factory style if poss
This is a bout the best i can do, hopefully you can see the two flexible bulges either side of the internal opening, these contact the phone and hold it in place, i use an iphone 13 pro in a chunky case and its a tight fit
I would say internal depth is 25mm max around the point of the grippers but you can see the taper on the unit so wider at the top and slimmer at the bottom, it wont go all the way in, i assume the grippers will soften a bit over time and may have a bit off 'give' in them but hard to say
Only plus point is the inner piece is the cheapest at just over a tenner so you could always buy just that piece and try it out ??
