Tar Spots on Paintwork

Autoglym tar spot and Super Resin Polish are what I use. After washing the paintwork, I tend to use a bit of cotton wool to liberally apply the tar spot remover - if its not black / too dark, you will see it melting the tar. Once all removed give it another quick wash.

Ian
 
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Tardis tar remover best I have used and can buy in a 5ltr canister so good value. Spray on, wipe any stubborn bits then wash re wash the area. Wax layer will need to be re applied also.

AG stuff works well but Tardis is more of a trade version.
 
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Juicy Details TAG (Tar and Glue) remover is very good. Autosmart Tardis is excellent too, but only comes in 5 litre cans.
 
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Another vote for Tardis, many of these tar removers work very well, but from my experience Tardis removes stuff really easily and you need less than using some other products.

It’s been said already, but after you’ve used the tar remover (whichever you choose), wash those areas again to get rid of any residue.

If your paintwork is waxed you’ll need to reapply the wax too, tar removers are very effective at removing wax. No problems using them on vehicles that are ceramic coated though.
 
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Tardis it is then, ordered and should have 5L turn up in the week! Thanks for the help
 
Also consider a chemical resistant spray bottle. Many detailers just spray it onto the panel. There are bound to be youtube tutorials!
 
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Autoglym tar spot and Super Resin Polish are what I use. After washing the paintwork, I tend to use a bit of cotton wool to liberally apply the tar spot remover - if its not black / too dark, you will see it melting the tar. Once all removed give it another quick wash.

Ian
:thumbsup:
 
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Parafin

Cheap and water soluble. Been using it as a greaser on my motorbikes where appropriate for years.


Whatever you use remember that it’ll probably also remove any polish (or ceramic coating?)
 
Tardis! Wow - that is an expensive solvent that is just labelled Tar Remover. :thumbsdown:

Paraffin, petrol or any degreaser will do the same job. You have to re-apply any protective coatings anyway. Money for old rope I say....
 
Washing it on Friday made me finally give in and tackle the tar laden sides, so Saturday afternoon saw the offside and bonnet attended to, and this afternoon the nearside. I've still got the tailgate, both bumpers and maybe even the roof to do.

No fancy products and no need for correction due to my super careful washing regime. Poorboys White Diamond by hand, close up and personal old skool way with my reading glasses on, picking off every last spec. Then topped of with the first coat of Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax. More coats to follow as the Tig and Polo have three coats and nothing sticks nearly a year on. No fancy ceramics needed here.



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Loving your attention to detail, old skool methods and elbow grease pal. Bet your shoulder looks like Jack Reacher’s right arm after that effort. Thumbs up guy emoji sent to you :thumbsup:

Top tip for the old tar spots - simple white spirit dissolves tar very easily with a little dab and careful rub with a microfibre cloth - people get v. nervous about using WS as they think it’s going to dissolve their paint, but it is categorically 99% the same as branded car tar and glue removers (I guess the other 1% might be an agent to help it rinse off easier - but I have looked at the spec sheets and WS is basically the same stuff, honestly). It won’t hurt your paint or clear coat, just clean it off after using it, as you would if you were using a dedicated tar and glue remover. And it costs pennies.

I’ve tried various different winter decon methods over the years, and come to the conclusion that on a well maintained vehicle, at this time of year, a once over with an iron fall-out remover (Bilt Hamber Korrosol), followed by a once over with the above method for tar spots negates the need for a full clay bar decontamination (which by definition then needs a full machine polish to correct marring inflicted by clay), and gets you to a good base to start afresh with wax (or whatever last stage protection you’re using) in spring.

Obviously if your vehicle’s paint is a swirled, scuffy mess, or if you have a small mucky garden bucket, Halfords sponge and old skool chamois leather approach to washing your van, then this method won’t work, but I reckon many on here take take of their buses.

Ceramic coatings are all well and good (and I have nothing against ‘em), but you’ll pay a hefty wedge to have one done, and a really good one will last 3 years tops and they still need maintaining. They’re not a once and done cure for everything.

I’ll get off my detailing soap box now (detailing used to be a lively topic of discussion on the Audi forum I used to be on before joining this one), as it may not be for all, but when I get few hours at the weekend to get some quiet time away from the family (love ‘em to bits, as I do), pamper the bus and enjoy some Buddhist Zen time, I’m a happy Jimbob.
 
Hi everyone, have a new Ascot Grey T6.1, Does anyone have any tips for getting those pescy dots of tarmac off the bodywork/paint without damaging it? Thanks
 
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