Thule Wanderway Bike Rack - Issues and Paint Protection

racT6bus

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T6 Pro
I've had a Thule Wanderway 2 bike rack fitted on my T6 for the last 18 months. I use it several times a month for MTB/gravel events so I leave it fitted all the time, plus I don't have anywhere to store it when not on the van!

It has been brilliant.... however I've had two issues with them recently;

1. Both the locking clamps that connect the bike to the rack have seized up. Once I raised this with the retailer I bought it from they told me it was my fault as I shouldn't leave them outside all the time!! Quite a ridiculous response given it's for use outside and there is no recommendation from Thule about this. Initially they told me I'd need to buy new ones for well over £100, but Thule have a no quibble 2 year warranty so they have both now been fixed FOC. I will now be keeping the clamps inside until I need to use them - worth considering if you do the same as me and were leaving them on all the time!

2. I used the supplied THULE WanderWay 911 Plastic Foil (54293) vinyl stickers to protect my paintwork, making sure they weren't creased and had bonded correctly, but the rack has made the vinyl shift beneath each point that it connects with the van and it's damaged the paintwork in each place - the vibration from being fitted looks to have almost squeezed the paint work out either side of the vinyl creating grooves in the paint. Once I have tidied up the paintwork can anyone recommend something more durable to protect the paintwork that might be more effective?
 
I’ve not had either problem in the 2 years I’ve had the rack. Nor the clamp issue on my 15 year old Thule towbar rack.

I lubricate the clamp thread and lock occasionally which keeps it running smoothly as it is in a very harsh environment, especially in winter. I also sometimes remove them but more for security than anything else.

The tape that came with the rack did slip a bit (I put the rack on too soon afterwards in my eagerness to use it!) on the lower clamps, but certainly no damage to the paint. I’ve since replaced it with some PPF and that seems to be working well. I’ve also use a bit of inner tube to protect the edge of the tailgate from the clamp. Are you sure the clamps are tight enough? There shouldn’t be any movement after the initial settle and retighten.
 
I’ve not had either problem in the 2 years I’ve had the rack. Nor the clamp issue on my 15 year old Thule towbar rack.

I lubricate the clamp thread and lock occasionally which keeps it running smoothly as it is in a very harsh environment, especially in winter. I also sometimes remove them but more for security than anything else.

The tape that came with the rack did slip a bit (I put the rack on too soon afterwards in my eagerness to use it!) on the lower clamps, but certainly no damage to the paint. I’ve since replaced it with some PPF and that seems to be working well. I’ve also use a bit of inner tube to protect the edge of the tailgate from the clamp. Are you sure the clamps are tight enough? There shouldn’t be any movement after the initial settle and retighten.
I had a Thule Proride on my Golf for a decade and it was faultless despite being left on the car permanently - I guess I just need to give this one a bit more care. Clamps are repaired now, will be stored in the dry and only go on when needed!

The clamps were all tightened fine and periodically checked. Once I have repaired the paint, I'll definitely investigate the heli tape/ppf options instead of getting more of the expensive Thule vinyls and nice idea re: inner tube!
 
Mines just broke today, clip broke and one of the clamps won't open, just slips.... Emailing thule now, will see what happens
 
I’ve not had either problem in the 2 years I’ve had the rack. Nor the clamp issue on my 15 year old Thule towbar rack.

I lubricate the clamp thread and lock occasionally which keeps it running smoothly as it is in a very harsh environment, especially in winter. I also sometimes remove them but more for security than anything else.

The tape that came with the rack did slip a bit (I put the rack on too soon afterwards in my eagerness to use it!) on the lower clamps, but certainly no damage to the paint. I’ve since replaced it with some PPF and that seems to be working well. I’ve also use a bit of inner tube to protect the edge of the tailgate from the clamp. Are you sure the clamps are tight enough? There shouldn’t be any movement after the initial settle and retighten.
Inner tube is a great tip!

It isn’t a harsh environment - it’s North Yorkshire! If the locals hear you whinge like that, you might lose your residency rights!!!
 
Fixed up the paint on mine now - can anyone recommend a good (but not insanely expensive!) PPF to use before I put the rack back on? Have kept an old inner tube to give that a go as well!!
 
Fixed up the paint on mine now - can anyone recommend a good (but not insanely expensive!) PPF to use before I put the rack back on? Have kept an old inner tube to give that a go as well!!
You can get some door sill PPF from Halfords which is good quality Expel stuff.
 
May I just ask folks who are using this bike rack if you have any issues with it when bikes are on it, lifting the tailgate and it snagging an open pop top?
If you changed the tailgate rams which ones did you buy please?
 
May I just ask folks who are using this bike rack if you have any issues with it when bikes are on it, lifting the tailgate and it snagging an open pop top?
If you changed the tailgate rams which ones did you buy please?
I rarely lift it with a bike on but it’s ok with a road bike and the pop top down. It would definitely make contact between the handlebars and pop top if the roof was raised. Reimo roof for me, others may sit a little lower.

MTB handlebars, especially more modern wide ones would likely hit with the roof down. I’ve not tried given the extra weight and almost certain contact.

I went for THQ 1250N struts. They are fine with the rack fitted but it’s pretty heavy to close the tailgate without the rack fitted.
 
I rarely lift it with a bike on but it’s ok with a road bike and the pop top down. It would definitely make contact between the handlebars and pop top if the roof was raised. Reimo roof for me, others may sit a little lower.

MTB handlebars, especially more modern wide ones would likely hit with the roof down. I’ve not tried given the extra weight and almost certain contact.

I went for THQ 1250N struts. They are fine with the rack fitted but it’s pretty heavy to close the tailgate without the rack fitted.
Thanks ginkster. We have 2 folding e-bikes weighing 17.5 kgs each (probably a little more with the bags on.) The handlebars fold down so that might take any risk out of hitting the roof. Closing the tail gate is an issue and no rack?
 
Mine just contacts the open pop top with the back of the arm ends when the tailgate is open, but not a big deal. I greased the clamps after reading on the forum about them seizing.
 
Thanks ginkster. We have 2 folding e-bikes weighing 17.5 kgs each (probably a little more with the bags on.) The handlebars fold down so that might take any risk out of hitting the roof. Closing the tail gate is an issue and no rack?
If you take the rack off you will need to dangle from the tailgate to pull it down. I wouldn’t ever bother taking my rack off.
 
If you take the rack off you will need to dangle from the tailgate to pull it down. I wouldn’t ever bother taking my rack off.
Ok, that gives a context top ponder. Thanks. To be fair, once it's fitted I couldn't see a case for removing it as long as I have bikes to transport.
 
Thanks ginkster. We have 2 folding e-bikes weighing 17.5 kgs each (probably a little more with the bags on.) The handlebars fold down so that might take any risk out of hitting the roof. Closing the tail gate is an issue and no rack?
You’ll be fine clearance wise if you can fold the bars. Not sure if the tailgate will stay up though with that weight on as I’ve only tried with one road bike. Closing with no carrier is heavy but not so bad I feel the need to swap struts or keep the carrier on. Takes a bit of a pull to get it 2/3rds of the way down then easy peasy from there. Opens fine and doesn’t shoot up fast.
 
You’ll be fine clearance wise if you can fold the bars. Not sure if the tailgate will stay up though with that weight on as I’ve only tried with one road bike. Closing with no carrier is heavy but not so bad I feel the need to swap struts or keep the carrier on. Takes a bit of a pull to get it 2/3rds of the way down then easy peasy from there. Opens fine and doesn’t shoot up fast.
Thank you.
 
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