Torque setting for disc to hub

Best make sure you have the new bolts before you start the job.
Thank you for your response which I'm grateful for. This has been my first time changing the discs and pads and I have read everything I can and watched as much as I can.

Apart from in this forum I hadn't come across anything which said that new bolts were needed. So I didn't know or have any, but had everything else. It has been a learning process for me for next time.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DXX
certain bolts (like Head bolts etc) are single use and torque to yield or stretch bolts.

i think the idea is that when they are torqued up they "stretch slightly"

The idea is that once they have been torqued up and stretched, removing and refitting them . . . they cant be stretched again as they will be weaker and could break.?

Thats the VW OEM manual and the way that the dealer will follow. - (and also charge you for new carrier bolts)

YouTube mechanics will follow the standard mechanics view - if it come out, then it can go back in.

+++

edit:

though i gota say i wonder how may places actually replace them? (appart from a main dealer that is?)

eg if you took the van to a VW indy or even High-Street tyres & brakes place . . . . . would they fit new bolt? . .

we would have to see a quote from a garage, to see if the were charging for new bolts on a disk job?

i would bet most places wouldn't fit new?
I'd be surprised if vw change them! :rofl:
 
The new bolts for the caliper carrier normally come with the pads.
I’d be surprised if VW re-use them, they are stretch bolts on a very critical part.
 
I've bought pads and disks from ECP etc and never had carrier bolts supplied.

It would be good to see someones VW invoice for a pads and discs job to see if they are billed for bolts.

EG:

1st oil service, plus pads front + rear. (no discs)

1612994574553.png
 
Last edited:
The new bolts for the caliper carrier normally come with the pads.
I’d be surprised if VW re-use them, they are stretch bolts on a very critical part.
I changed my rear discs and pads recently and the Brembo kit came with replacement bolts to mount the caliper on the carrier but not the carrier bolts themselves. Just for info.
 
no mention of brake carrier here: (screen shots from online manual)

nor does it say remove carrier when changing discs . . .



1612995051504.png

....


but there is here:

1612995078814.png


.

1612995166506.png


.

1612995199461.png


.


1612995219146.png
.
 
I changed my rear discs and pads recently and the Brembo kit came with replacement bolts to mount the caliper on the carrier but not the carrier bolts themselves. Just for info.
Same here, I bought brembo discs and pads and didn't have the bolts for the carrier's either.
 
The new bolts for the caliper carrier normally come with the pads.
I’d be surprised if VW re-use them, they are stretch bolts on a very critical part.
Must be a VW or a Transporter thing, I've genuinely never seen that before? I understand the criticality of course, it's just a new one to me!

In all fairness if the hubs aren't that deep the disc will probably slide out the carrier anyway? Not tried it yet on the van as the brakes are still in good shape.
 
AUTODOC video . . .

reuses same bolts but adds a threadlock - 3801 Liqui Moly thread sealant - Liqui Moly 3802 Screw Lock - Medium 50 g: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

uses a spray copper slip on the back of the disc - 3970 Liqui Moly - Copper grease in an aerosol - 3-IN-ONE Professional Anti-Seize Copper Grease 300ml

uses a silicon grease on the slider pins - 5,000,000 150 Bosch - Grease for caliper guides - GREASE FOR BRAKES BOSCH 5 000 000 150 4047024593787 | eBay

torqued to spec with mind power . . . lol (yeh i know the vid is for demo purposes. . see disclaimer)


Front . . . .






+++


Rear . . .






******


Not VW - but general liquid molly. - they use same bolts and threadlock too.







...
 
Last edited:
Well, pads and discs all done on the front. Well chuffed with myself as it was my first time ever doing such a job.

One thing I have seen now that I've tested them is for marks on the discs as per the 1st photo. I presume this is where the pads are against the disc on braking?

The other photos I just wanted to show off as I'm so chuffed with myself.

IMG_20210211_153750.jpg

IMG_20210211_135608.jpg

IMG_20210211_134005.jpg

IMG_20210211_133958.jpg

IMG_20210211_135606.jpg
 
well done, great job.

as per all brake jobs . . . just go easy braking for the first week while the pads and disks bed themselves in . . .

.
 
well done, great job.

as per all brake jobs . . . just go easy braking for the first week while the pads and disks bed themselves in . . .

.

Thank you. Yes, I certainly will. So am I right in saying that in the first picture, the difference in the marking on the new disc which is the one closest to the hub is where the pad has been applied on the disc after my test run? Just want to make sure.
 
yes, they will take 300 - 1000 miles to fully bed in. (depending on driving style and loads)



1613061788062.png

How to bed in your new brakes for street/urban driving

BEDDING IN NEW EBC PADS AND DISCS

  • Use brakes with minimal pressure for first 100 miles from urban speeds of 30-50 mph only.
  • Drive a further 250 miles using slightly increased brake pressure and load UNLESS in an emergency in which case apply brake as hard as required.
  • Look for a full width contact across the pad depth( rotor braking band) from the outer edge of the disc to the inner and if not achieved allow a further 100-200 miles steady driving. You will see a blue-ish band evidencing contact across the rotor face. Until this band goes from the outer to the inner edges of the brake disc/rotor the pads have NOT yet fully seated. When installing new rotors, reduced width banding is quite possible due to various tolerances and slight misalignments in the vehicle chassis and is NOT a warranty defect or a reason to remove and inspect brakes. Many European cars have SINGLE PISTON CALIPERS and these tend to “Flair” open and cause the contact band described above only to be seen at the outer edge of the disc/rotor and work its way inwards taking up to 1000 miles to do so.
  • After full width contact band is attained make a further 10 stops from 60 mph to 10 mph in succession with a deliberate attempt to get the brakes hot. Some smells may occur even slight smoke during this final heat up stage of the pads in early life. Then coast the vehicle for a mile to allow discs to cool. Do not pull up and park vehicle with brake excessively hot. You must try to get the discs down to below 60-80 degrees C temperature before parking the vehicle.
  • When parked let brakes cool to a final cool-to-touch point. Before touching discs splash a few tiny drops of water onto the disc to asses its temperature to avoid burning fingers. If the water spots cause a “hiss” you have parked up too soon and should go out and drive slowly allowing the brakes to cool further.
NEW DISCS TAKE LONGER TO BED IN

  • Fully bedding new pads to decent condition worn discs/rotors may take only 200-300 miles but when new discs are fitted at the same time bed in times to achieve outer to inner edge contact ( full width blue-grey contact band as mentioned under point 4 above ) can be as long as 800-1000 miles due to extra components needed to be aligned to the vehicle. To Short cut this you can ( and EBC recommend should) have EVEN NEW DISCS Pro Cut Lathe aligned to your vehicle. This process removes only microns of new disc material and shortens bed in time by 75% of the time it COULD take giving you better brakes faster and avoiding hot spotting and pad glazing.
BADLY WORN DISCS/ROTORS CAN TAKE AN AGE TO BED IN

Discs/Rotors with more than 0.5 mm ( 0.020 inches) of lip at the outer edge or hollow in the centre of the braking area can take up to 2000 miles to bed in and will for sure cause Noise, brake fade,vibration and pad burning. Bad rotors can RUIN your pads. 95% of brake fade and noise complaints come from poor disc/rotor condition where the pads touch only at the outer and inner edges and have no chance to deliver an effective brake.
 
If anyone is looking at brake pads / discs, Carparts4less is worth looking at. That is where I had my brembo pads and discs from. In total inc. next day delivery was £145. It is a sister company of ECP and much cheaper if you need servicing items too.
 
According to Vw parts dept (quoted 2 weeks ago) item 19 (On 17” chassis) needs replacing. They’re £17.99 INC VAT for all 4

1613083847172.png
 
Back
Top