With the Vanstyle harness being plug and play it's going to be the opposite - as you're not adding another power source (e.g. connecting direct to the battery), this will overload the circuit which is now supplying two bulbs rather than one. By doing the coding, each bulb is supplied by it's own wiring.The Vanstyle harness is switching through a relay,if you set the option on the van would this not overload the cabling??
Just checked THQ website. The only H7 bulbs they advertise are 55w and not listed as Limastar, what did you fit @trooutie , still got the box or can you remember?With the Vanstyle harness being plug and play it's going to be the opposite - as you're not adding another power source (e.g. connecting direct to the battery), this will overload the circuit which is now supplying two bulbs rather than one. By doing the coding, each bulb is supplied by it's own wiring.
Trooutie - those Limastar bulbs are 100W so they too are asking more from your lighting circuit than intended so I'd recommend putting some proper wattage bulbs in. Many months ago I did a voltage drop test comparing 55W to 100W through the OEM wiring and the drop with 100W bulbs fitted is greater than you would want to run (it's in one of these threads somewhere).
Thanks @Pauly so the 1.5mm cable is at its limit really at 16a but should be ok if 100w bulbs are used in both and coded for dipped with main. The drl on the Caravelle light unit would not be on so no draw and for the time and intermittent draw of indicators wouldn’t really affect it but the -ve is really at its limit.H4
+ve = 1 & 1.5mm
-ve = 1.5mm
H7
+ve = Not sure think 1.0mm (VW wiring diagrams have an error in them)
-ve = 1.5mm
That's what the voltage drop tests does - checks that the wiring is man enough for the job (or dodgy connections). 55W bulbs no problem at all but with 100W they were right on the limit. I'd have to find my notes but fairly sure I put the results on the forum somewhereAnyone know the wire section used to the lights, the important being the earth as that would be taking double if the dipped are on with main?
May be your notes are here --> These headlights are ####!!!That's what the voltage drop tests does - checks that the wiring is man enough for the job (or dodgy connections). 55W bulbs no problem at all but with 100W they were right on the limit. I'd have to find my notes but fairly sure I put the results on the forum somewhere
So Chris, how many watts are the bulbs, can't see from that picture?View attachment 33207
Boy these new fangled motors are getting a bit complex
When I were a lad we just bolted a couple of cibie oscars to the front of the Moggie thousand with a switch and a relay
now you need to be a quantum physics master just to put fuel in the right tank .
ok Thanks Mooncat. I will put summat with less draw so the wimpy wiring can not set fire to my new bus .
and eat loads of carrots .
That's them! I was more focussed on whether the wiring was up to the job rather than what the alternator was providing. I certainly don't notice the light intensity changing though.May be your notes are here --> These headlights are ####!!!
A question: have you monitored the voltage when headlights are on when driving? E.g. at cigarette lighter socket. As the T6 has so called smart alternator and thus the voltage fluctuates quite a lot, so I would expect to see the regular headlights to get brighter and dimmer along with that. Unless there is a voltage stabilizator involved... I can't do that (observe the lights) because I've got LED headlights and they have their own power supply. Just wondering if having headlights on turns also the alternator to higher/stable voltage level...
yes ...Have you got the the headlights?.
THQ told you 100W lamps were road legal?My THQ lights also came with those 100W LimaStar bulbs. I checked with THQ and they said they were road legal and wouldn't melt my wiring, but I still wasn't convinced so just fitted some Philips RacingVision bulbs.
Philips Ultinon LED are tempting too!