TransporterHQ (THQ) Aftermarket Headlights

[365DAS]

This is how I did the HIDs in my V3’s.
First of all I used the kit recommended by @dubber36. Ordered on-line from here

https://www.xenonbulbs.co.uk/HID-Kits-H7-35W-TERMINATOR?search=Canbus free h7:eek:ops

:
and delivered very promptly. No warning lights on the dash using these

This is what you get in the box.
View attachment 65558

And this is how they say they compare to halogens:
View attachment 65557

I spent a little time tidying up the wiring loom on the v3’s by wrapping wires in cloth tape to calm my OCD and then attached the various drivers and resistors from the HID kit as shown in the photos. I wanted to make sure the adjuster bolts for the headlights remained accessible which is why left and right are not exactly the same (the HID kit isn’t handed). All attached using 3M VHB tape. I have circled the adjusters in red. The other consideration is the length of the cable from the bulb. This limits where you can put things.

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To insert the bulb you need to cut a hole in the back of the rubber cover. There was no template in the box but after measuring the diameter with a set of callipers I found that a dummy pound coin for the supermarket trolley (an old round one) was a perfect template. I simply placed it on the back of the rubber and cut round it with a sharp Stanley knife.

View attachment 65565

I think I spent as much time tidying the wiring and fitting the HID kit as I did fitting the headlights in the van. Removing the bumper, swapping the lights and refitting the bumper took me about an hour and a half. I’ve never had the bumper off before but did watch a couple of videos on Utube on how to do it. The one thing the videos don’t show is where the fogs and front sensors connect. I dropped the bumper off first and then disconnected them. If I was doing it again, I’d disconnect them first now i know where they are. Fogs are on the Driver side behind the inner wheel arch, sensors essentially the same place on the passenger side.

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That’s interesting as I found just one plug on the drivers side and that disconnected the lot...are there different loom variants then?

 

[365DAS]

They’re in, I’ll try and do some photos of them in the dark later. I’ve done a separate post on how I fitted the HIDs into the lights which was pretty straightforward with the lights on the bench, would be a bit more of a faff if the lights were in the van but doable. No warning lights on the dash and everything working as it should. Once I see it in the dark, I imagine I’ll be wanting the put an LED bulb in the main and in the fogs. They are going to look very yellow next to the HIDs in the dip.

I’m keen to see how the LED bulbs perform as it’s the first time I’ve retro fitted these (have done HIDs many moons ago!)

The led bulb kit I got fe THQ for the fog lights were a simple plug n play kit and the colour is very nice and matches the main beam...but again, will see if there are any real differences in colour in the dark

 

[Big.mac]

That’s interesting as I found just one plug on the drivers side and that disconnected the lot...are there different loom variants then?

My front sensors were a retrofit (genuine VW but retrofit). Perhaps that is the difference?

 

[365DAS]

My front sensors were a retrofit (genuine VW but retrofit). Perhaps that is the difference?

Yep, most likely the answer...good to know!

 

[Big.mac]

This is how I did the HIDs in my V3’s.
First of all I used the kit recommended by @dubber36. Ordered on-line from here

https://www.xenonbulbs.co.uk/HID-Kits-H7-35W-TERMINATOR?search=Canbus free h7:eek:ops

:
and delivered very promptly. No warning lights on the dash using these

This is what you get in the box.
View attachment 65558

And this is how they say they compare to halogens:
View attachment 65557

I spent a little time tidying up the wiring loom on the v3’s by wrapping wires in cloth tape to calm my OCD and then attached the various drivers and resistors from the HID kit as shown in the photos. I wanted to make sure the adjuster bolts for the headlights remained accessible which is why left and right are not exactly the same (the HID kit isn’t handed). All attached using 3M VHB tape. I have circled the adjusters in red. The other consideration is the length of the cable from the bulb. This limits where you can put things.

View attachment 65561View attachment 65562View attachment 65563View attachment 65564

To insert the bulb you need to cut a hole in the back of the rubber cover. There was no template in the box but after measuring the diameter with a set of callipers I found that a dummy pound coin for the supermarket trolley (an old round one) was a perfect template. I simply placed it on the back of the rubber and cut round it with a sharp Stanley knife.

View attachment 65565

I think I spent as much time tidying the wiring and fitting the HID kit as I did fitting the headlights in the van. Removing the bumper, swapping the lights and refitting the bumper took me about an hour and a half. I’ve never had the bumper off before but did watch a couple of videos on Utube on how to do it. The one thing the videos don’t show is where the fogs and front sensors connect. I dropped the bumper off first and then disconnected them. If I was doing it again, I’d disconnect them first now i know where they are. Fogs are on the Driver side behind the inner wheel arch, sensors essentially the same place on the passenger side.

View attachment 65567View attachment 65568

And here’s what they look like in darkness. I’m pretty blown away with how bright they are. I marked a couple of lines on the garage door before removing the H4’s and these are pretty well spot on in the same place which is a bonus. I’ll get the alignment checked properly in due course.

Dip Beam (HIDs)

main beam (H1 halogen):


Both together (not coded yet just held flasher in):

 

[Skimech]

Hi just wondering what the views were Of people that have had both V2 and V3. Was thinking of getting the V3 but for the money should I go V2? I’d appreciate some advice please.

 

[The Van Cave]

Hi just wondering what the views were Of people that have had both V2 and V3. Was thinking of getting the V3 but for the money should I go V2? I’d appreciate some advice please.

The performance of them as actual headlights will be exactly the same as they both use the same projector housings. That means it really comes down to the aesthetic differences between the two and therefore if the extra cash is worth it to you for the different look of the V3.

 

[dubber36]

Having now seen the V3's, I'm not keen on the blank space where the indicator used to be. To me, it looks like there's something missing.

 

[welshbaron]

Thought with the V3 you have a LED option for builds?

 

[The Van Cave]

Thought with the V3 you have a LED option for builds?

You can run LED bulbs in the V2 also. They are the same projectors.

 

[T6 Owl]

I’ve finally got round to installing my THQ V3 headlights. I think they definitely look the part and the LED lamps are a marked improvement compared to the standard headlights. However, I am a little disappointed with the brightness of the led drl strip. It’s no where near as bright as the promo videos THQ posted, both the drl and indicator. The dynamic indicator is barely visible in daylight.
Has anyone with the V3’s noticed this?

 

[Kev_]

I’ve finally got round to installing my THQ V3 headlights. I think they definitely look the part and the LED lamps are a marked improvement compared to the standard headlights. However, I am a little disappointed with the brightness of the led drl strip. It’s no where near as bright as the promo videos THQ posted, both the drl and indicator. The dynamic indicator is barely visible in daylight.
Has anyone with the V3’s noticed this?

Completely agree. I don't understand why they dont just put an extra LED in between each one? I questioned the brightness and they said it's only like that in direct sunlight....

 

[Vall]

That’s what’s put me off, in their video the indicators just didn’t look visible enough to be safe.

 

[365DAS]

I did the same also and did think it was down to the sunlight as it has been a lot sunnier recently but did think they could be brighter.

I know someone who has that V2 and ideally would like to see them side by side but lockdown isn’t letting that happen anytime soon!

 

[Kev_]

For me the perfect solution would be the V1 with and Led bulb indicator about 50w. Extra white LEDs in the light bar to get rid of the dots and the LED H7's

 

[Kev_]

I did the same also and did think it was down to the sunlight as it has been a lot sunnier recently but did think they could be brighter.

I know someone who has that V2 and ideally would like to see them side by side but lockdown isn’t letting that happen anytime soon!

I'd be interested to see that

 

[T6 Owl]

That’s what’s put me off, in their video the indicators just didn’t look visible enough to be safe.

to be fair, they looked great in their promo videos! Both the indicators and drl seemed very bright.

 

[cgtmiles]

For reference: Not quite in direct sunlight but you can see the outer most part is
Edit: Also just noticed the horizontal part is mostly completely in shade but still seems like it fades slightly towards the wing
Edit edit: it is pretty bright out there though direct sunlight or not!

 

[Davidh]

Can anyone with the HID kit offer a little assistance? Just got my V3s and HID kit today, all seems pretty straight forward. Just one question, what connectors in the light (blue and black) do the female spade connectors with the HID (red and black) connect to? Does it go red to blue and black to black or the other way round? Thanks

 

[Big.mac]

Can anyone with the HID kit offer a little assistance? Just got my V3s and HID kit today, all seems pretty straight forward. Just one question, what connectors in the light (blue and black) do the female spade connectors with the HID (red and black) connect to? Does it go red to blue and black to black or the other way round? Thanks

View attachment 66319

I did mine black to black. I also put some tape over it as I wasn't comfortable having bare connections floating around inside the light where they might touch something