Upgrade from Sargent EC155 Advice Request

Not really a spanner, just not willing to make a recommendation (and therefore take responsibility) for something they don't sell?
Ok sure, I get that completely. I meant a 'spanner in the works' in regards to what is the best practice both technically and financially for me to do... and tbh that's all I'm asking advice on, I was merely asking the Fogstar team if they had a recommendation, they didn't - the end.
 
i still wouldn't use a D250sa myself (unless you perfectly understood the mechanics of whats going on)

(The D250SE does have a lithium profile)

step#1 could pulse 15.8v to a lithium which is too high, but should trigger the over voltage protection.

then AGM setting could give 14.7v to that battery - again to high - but with volt drop and short durations the battery may see 14.6 or 14.5v

SLA setting could give 14.4v - which is what FS are referring too.?

1706951913366.png


++++++++++


as a reference, the Victron kit uses 14.2v BULK for the 80% odd - then 13.5V FLOAT for the remainder for the default Lifepo4 profile.

but these settings can be tweeked to the 14.4v bulk & 13.6v float called for by FS.


1706952262149.png




.


...

and for reference, the Fogstar calls for 14.4v bulk & 13.6v float


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION

  • Nominal Capacity 105Ah
  • Nominal Voltage 12V
  • Recommended Charge Voltage 14.4V
  • Max Cont. Discharge 100A
  • Dimensions 260mm L x 168mm W x 209mm H
  • Weight 10Kg
  • IP67 Rated
  • The Fogstar Drift terminals are all M8 in size, 1.25 pitch, 12mm. All of our Drift Leisure batteries come with bolts and terminal posts as standard.
  • You can connect up to 4 Drift batteries in series OR parallel
  • Ideal for use with inverters up to 1000W.

1706952530510.png


.
 
i still wouldn't use a D250sa myself (unless you perfectly understood the mechanics of whats going on)

(The D250SE does have a lithium profile)

step#1 could pulse 15.8v to a lithium which is too high, but should trigger the over voltage protection.

then AGM setting could give 14.7v to that battery - again to high - but with volt drop and short durations the battery may see 14.6 or 14.5v

SLA setting could give 14.4v - which is what FS are referring too.?

View attachment 228146


++++++++++


as a reference, the Victron kit uses 14.2v BULK for the 80% odd - then 13.5V FLOAT for the remainder for the default Lifepo4 profile.

but these settings can be tweeked to the 14.4v bulk & 13.6v float called for by FS.


View attachment 228147




.


...

and for reference, the Fogstar calls for 14.4v bulk & 13.6v float


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION

  • Nominal Capacity 105Ah
  • Nominal Voltage 12V
  • Recommended Charge Voltage 14.4V
  • Max Cont. Discharge 100A
  • Dimensions 260mm L x 168mm W x 209mm H
  • Weight 10Kg
  • IP67 Rated
  • The Fogstar Drift terminals are all M8 in size, 1.25 pitch, 12mm. All of our Drift Leisure batteries come with bolts and terminal posts as standard.
  • You can connect up to 4 Drift batteries in series OR parallel
  • Ideal for use with inverters up to 1000W.

View attachment 228148


.
Thanks, OK I'll go with the 250SE then unless there is something better out there? I don't mind spending more and I have space under passenger seat.
 
its up to you.. . . what you fit.

but if it was me, id fit either the Victron Orion XS or the Renogy DC50s as they are programmable, run cool, and have APPS.

(and if you wanted to add solar just fit a Vict 75/15 or other separately )

i wasnt to impressed with the D250SE ,. . . . in fact i need to sell it on.

i found it run hot, had a janky lithium charge profile - but a solid plodder, so a basic fit and forget unit with no frills or bells.

see my testing here: [Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

and have a look at the other units I've played with:




++

my current fav has been the Renogy DC50s, with out any solar attached.

but now testing the Vic XS, which has some very impressive plus points.

im waiting on getting the new Renogy IP67 dc-dc charger soon.

..
 
Thanks, I'll have a read now. I already have Victron 75/15 MPPT with 220w solar fixed panel by the way, so not sure if that helps dictate the replacement for the 250SA?
 
The advantage of going for the newer CTEK as I mentioned earlier in the thread is it'll be about 10 minutes to swap with your old one as physically they are the same so all the cables should just work.

If you go for a higher current charger then as mentioned before you will need to ensure the existing wiring is sufficient for the higher sustained current, remembering that DC-DC chargers will have a higher current on the input than the output.

Personally I'd just swap in the new CTEK and see how things go - @Dellmassive may even have one to sell on by the sounds of it.

Your existing Victron MPPT charger should coexist with whatever you choose.
 
IMG_4631.pngNot sure if this helps but you can see here from around 3 when we connected to the mains. It should happily trickle along at 13.5 until we unplug on Monday
 
Hi all - update.

I have purchased and installed the 250SE (Thanks to @Dellmassive for supplying the SE and his superb service in posting to me so quickly and professionally - See pick of your package below ;-) ).

I am pleased to say that the Sargent has stopped alarming and all seems to be ok on that side of things, however, there is still an issue in that when I switch on the Sargent and come back to it in the mornings it has switched itself off. It does this every time I switch it on and leave it unattended overnight (So can't see when exactly it is going off). Is there anyway of tracing this issue? I have attached a couple of screen grabs of the battery settings on the Victron app in case these are incorrect causing any issue. Any advice welcomed - thanks. Rik.

Victron App 1.jpg

Victron App 2.jpg

Package.PNG
 
Hi all - update.

Installed the CTEK250SE and the alarming issue I was experiencing has stopped, but now I seem to have another issue. At random times the Sargent is making 2 audible beeps and then powering off. When on EHU it doesn't do this. I have attached the details from the Victron MPPT, SmartShunt and Fogstar App at the time of shutdown (18:04) and also shots from the Fogstar app Protect History earlier in the day (1pm and 4pm). At the time of shutdownFogstar Battery Status - 6pm.jpgFogstar History.jpgFogstar PH - 1pm 22 June.jpgFogstar PH - 4pm 22 June.jpgFogstar PH - 6pm 22 June.jpgSmartshunt Current.jpgSmartshunt Power.jpgSmartshunt Voltage.jpgVictron Battery Settings.jpg I was only running the 12v fridge. I haven't changed anything on the system apart from installing the Lithium Batery and the 250SE. Any help appreciated as I don't want warm beers in the morning at Glastonbury next week lol!
 
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Any help appreciated as I don't want warm beers in the morning at Glastonbury next week lol!
Generally a compressor fridge isn't wired through a system like the Sargent, they tend to need a fairly direct connection to the leisure battery to avoid voltage drop issues?
 
sooo many problems with these crappy sargent units, I'm gonna rip the whole lot out and install a new victron dc/dc, new mains charger and a lifepo4 battery. I'll replace the old sargent control panel with a cbe type affair and add a battery monitor, light swiches and pump switch.
New small consumer unit for direct plug in on ehu.
No more crappy sargent system and a whole new victron and fogstar dream set up.
 
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