Upgraded Lithium leisure battery - update

[icn05]

I fitted a LiFePo4 battery when I got our van, I haven't been on EHU since. We don't normally stay in one place for too long and even if we do we often still use the van to visit places. With the current set-up I think we could stay somewhere for 4 days without moving. I'd originally planned on installing solar, but so far I don't think we need it. Totally worth the money

I’m getting solar fitted when my roof gets changed. Hoping to be able to be off grid for at least a couple of days at a time, we don’t have an inverter fitted so should easily be manageable.

 

[mvw]

I’m getting solar fitted when my roof gets changed. Hoping to be able to be off grid for at least a couple of days at a time, we don’t have an inverter fitted so should easily be manageable.

I think that's the point I was trying to make, if you only need to go off grid for a couple of days, with reasonable use you would be fine without solar, but fitting a LiFePo4 battery instead. I was lucky that our DC to DC charger supported LiFePo4 (it had a profile for it) so we only had to pay for a battery.

 

[NickyBrown08]

Cheers. Yeah I don’t think will need solar as we only stop in same place for a few days. I am just trying to work out what I need now.
Might need a dc/dc as I think it’s only got a VSR fitted. Something to look at nearer the summer. Thanks for the info.

 

[ginkster]

Hi,
I am looking to swap out my leisure battery, possibly a dumb question but is the LiFe04 a direct replacement to a old lead battery.
I have smart charger and hook up, do I need to add any more components for a swap.
Just wanting the best battery when we go away for 3-4 days.
Thank you.

It can be a simple swap out and is now a reasonable cost to change given the longevity and power to size ratio of the new lifepo4 batteries. But, do consider it carefully or you may find you spend far too much on the battery or need to change elements to make it work safely.

Do you only have the ip22 as the charger or do you also have a charger from the engine and/or solar? Also, what is your usage (fridge, lights etc), how and when will it be charged (none, solar only, driving each day etc) and how long do you want to be off-grid (if at all)? Knowing your power usage and how much you are putting back into the battery will help you buy one of the right capacity. Buying one that is far too large is just a waste of money.

Also, as TallPaul mentions, you need to consider how you prevent it being charged when the battery is near zero degrees. Many batteries (but not all - especially cheap ones) have built in protection or you need to make sure the chargers don’t charge below zero. The ip22 should be able to do this with Smart Battery Sense added (I think, but haven’t double checked the compatibility) but that’s not as good as a sensor in the battery.

You will also need to check connectors, fuses and cable capacity - especially so if you start going with high capacity batteries and start adding high draw components (e.g. an inverter) to the system. Finally, it will need to fit in the available space. That’s normally ok as a lifepo4 is often smaller for the same ah capacity as a lead acid, but some of the common ones (Fogstar, Renogy, Ecoworthy) are taller than a LA which can cause issues. They can however be laid on their side.

Edit - missed page 2! If you only have a VSR you should change that for a DC-DC. As a guide I have a 105ah Fogstar and get 4 days stationary with no charging having a fridge on constantly, LED lights in the evening, USBs for phone charging, some use of the diesel heater and the Ablemail keeping the starter battery topped up. With my 200w solar panel switched on I can run pretty much indefinitely even in overcast/rainy conditions.

 

[M4rc]

It can be a simple swap out and is now a reasonable cost to change given the longevity and power to size ratio of the new lifepo4 batteries. But, do consider it carefully or you may find you spend far too much on the battery or need to change elements to make it work safely.

Do you only have the ip22 as the charger or do you also have a charger from the engine and/or solar? Also, what is your usage (fridge, lights etc), how and when will it be charged (none, solar only, driving each day etc) and how long do you want to be off-grid (if at all)? Knowing your power usage and how much you are putting back into the battery will help you buy one of the right capacity. Buying one that is far too large is just a waste of money.

Also, as TallPaul mentions, you need to consider how you prevent it being charged when the battery is near zero degrees. Many batteries (but not all - especially cheap ones) have built in protection or you need to make sure the chargers don’t charge below zero. The ip22 should be able to do this with Smart Battery Sense added (I think, but haven’t double checked the compatibility) but that’s not as good as a sensor in the battery.

You will also need to check connectors, fuses and cable capacity - especially so if you start going with high capacity batteries and start adding high draw components (e.g. an inverter) to the system. Finally, it will need to fit in the available space. That’s normally ok as a lifepo4 is often smaller for the same ah capacity as a lead acid, but some of the common ones (Fogstar, Renogy, Ecoworthy) are taller than a LA which can cause issues. They can however be laid on their side.

Edit - missed page 2! If you only have a VSR you should change that for a DC-DC. As a guide I have a 105ah Fogstar and get 4 days stationary with no charging having a fridge on constantly, LED lights in the evening, USBs for phone charging, some use of the diesel heater and the Ablemail keeping the starter battery topped up. With my 200w solar panel switched on I can run pretty much indefinitely even in overcast/rainy conditions.

I've just ordered fogstar 105ah. Good to know it will last so long 4 days is pretty good going.

 

[NickyBrown08]

It can be a simple swap out and is now a reasonable cost to change given the longevity and power to size ratio of the new lifepo4 batteries. But, do consider it carefully or you may find you spend far too much on the battery or need to change elements to make it work safely.

Do you only have the ip22 as the charger or do you also have a charger from the engine and/or solar? Also, what is your usage (fridge, lights etc), how and when will it be charged (none, solar only, driving each day etc) and how long do you want to be off-grid (if at all)? Knowing your power usage and how much you are putting back into the battery will help you buy one of the right capacity. Buying one that is far too large is just a waste of money.

Also, as TallPaul mentions, you need to consider how you prevent it being charged when the battery is near zero degrees. Many batteries (but not all - especially cheap ones) have built in protection or you need to make sure the chargers don’t charge below zero. The ip22 should be able to do this with Smart Battery Sense added (I think, but haven’t double checked the compatibility) but that’s not as good as a sensor in the battery.

You will also need to check connectors, fuses and cable capacity - especially so if you start going with high capacity batteries and start adding high draw components (e.g. an inverter) to the system. Finally, it will need to fit in the available space. That’s normally ok as a lifepo4 is often smaller for the same ah capacity as a lead acid, but some of the common ones (Fogstar, Renogy, Ecoworthy) are taller than a LA which can cause issues. They can however be laid on their side.

Edit - missed page 2! If you only have a VSR you should change that for a DC-DC. As a guide I have a 105ah Fogstar and get 4 days stationary with no charging having a fridge on constantly, LED lights in the evening, USBs for phone charging, some use of the diesel heater and the Ablemail keeping the starter battery topped up. With my 200w solar panel switched on I can run pretty much indefinitely even in overcast/rainy conditions.

Hi pal.

I get charge when the van is running, have no solar as not really needed. Have a fridge running, lights and usbs when out camping. If we have hook up we have a tv too.
The ip22 is only in use when hooked up to EHU. But max we would be off grid is 2-3 days so nothing major.

I have been reading up and I would definitely need a dc/dc. The space isn’t a problem as leisure battery is located in the rear of the van. Before I do change it, I would get all the wiring and fusses checked before buying one. Mine is a ex AA van so I think it’s wired different from the main battery but not 100%.

I am very new to the camper scene so just getting my head round it all. But when it comes to changing the battery will definitely be going down the lithium route.

Thank you for the reply. WS hoping I could just drop a lithium in and be all ok

 

[ginkster]

Hi pal.

I get charge when the van is running, have no solar as not really needed. Have a fridge running, lights and usbs when out camping. If we have hook up we have a tv too.
The ip22 is only in use when hooked up to EHU. But max we would be off grid is 2-3 days so nothing major.

I have been reading up and I would definitely need a dc/dc. The space isn’t a problem as leisure battery is located in the rear of the van. Before I do change it, I would get all the wiring and fusses checked before buying one. Mine is a ex AA van so I think it’s wired different from the main battery but not 100%.

I am very new to the camper scene so just getting my head round it all. But when it comes to changing the battery will definitely be going down the lithium route.

Thank you for the reply. WS hoping I could just drop a lithium in and be all ok

Had a similar experience with mine when I found the existing system fitted by a so called professional conversion company (now gone bust!) was not suitable for the van and wasn’t lithium capable. I changed pretty much all of it and fitted solar and relocated the battery and chargers to under the front seats. It’s been a game changer for me - smaller, lighter, freed up loads of cupboard space and gives me limitless off-grid power (I don’t use an inverter). Been free from hook up is fantastic and flexible as well as cheaper.

From the detail given, I’d say a 105ah lifepo4 would be more than sufficient for you, plus a DC-DC and potentially a new cable and fuse from the stater battery to DC-DC and to LB and you’ll be sorted.

 

[NickyBrown08]

Had a similar experience with mine when I found the existing system fitted by a so called professional conversion company (now gone bust!) was not suitable for the van and wasn’t lithium capable. I changed pretty much all of it and fitted solar and relocated the battery and chargers to under the front seats. It’s been a game changer for me - smaller, lighter, freed up loads of cupboard space and gives me limitless off-grid power (I don’t use an inverter). Been free from hook up is fantastic and flexible as well as cheaper.

From the detail given, I’d say a 105ah lifepo4 would be more than sufficient for you, plus a DC-DC and potentially a new cable and fuse from the stater battery to DC-DC and to LB and you’ll be sorted.

Spot on. I will definitely be looking into it early next year. Thank you for all the info. Very much appreciated.