Vw T6 102 EGR swap?
- Thread starter Thom.milburn
- Start date
-
- Tags
- egr
Do you mind me asking what mileage the van has covered as my 3yr old camper had a new long pipe at 40,000 miles under warranty but in it's second life as a camper it gets driven gently and over fairly modest distances... I swapped our Seat Leon 184 tdi out over how frequently it regenned with the wife driving it.
Mine had 37k on it when I replaced it.Do you mind me asking what mileage the van has covered as my 3yr old camper had a new long pipe at 40,000 miles under warranty but in it's second life as a camper it gets driven gently and over fairly modest distances... I swapped our Seat Leon 184 tdi out over how frequently it regenned with the wife driving it.
Thom.milburn
Member
Mines at 50,000miles myself
Great write up Thom.milburn, Have the same van, T6 102 Euro 6, 5 speed, base van really, came on here as a bit of research to find out if folk were having any problems etc with them. Bought it mid 2017 at just under 12 months old with about 20k on the dial. Thought it a tad expensive for a base van but hey, thats what you pay for them. My ex bro in law ran an old t5 from new for 290 k and the only problem he suffered in 12 years was it throwing a drive shaft. So with this in mind bit the bullet and bought it. I think in the past i must have dropped lucky with motors as i cant really remember one giving me grief of any sort, except for doing runners aided by the thieving fraternity though i blame this on my choice of chariot. This appears to have come back and bit me on the arse with this bus big time as it seems to have been blessed with being bestowed with every fault possible from dodgey door seals, leaking crankshaft oil seals, juddering clutch, noisey cam belt tensioner and now this egr cooler and flexi problem. Had much the same start as yourself, no lights, just a big drop in consumption, low on power, but then it couldnt pull the skin off a rice pudding from the start. Took it to my local vw indy service workshop, who to be fair are A1, for its 2nd mot and yearly service as i dont do mega miles nowadays (now just on 35k miles). Passed mot but the service revealed it had logged the egr faults so they produced a list of works required to bring it up to scratch. Replacement egr & cooler, clean & replace throttle body, new cam belt tensioner to silence the old noisey one, but added it was a 4 year service item anyway and that good practice dictated replacement of tensioner and pump at the same time as cambelt anyway. So i went away with wobbly legs to ponder the future of said vehicle. Two days later, took the little old growler down the supermarket to get him out as the weather had been a bit ruff.... and the damn thing gassed us !!! Now i have no problem with her indoors borrowing it (in fact i havent told her of the problem) but theres no way im taking the mut in it again till its sorted or (and wouldnt you know it no one wants to knick this one). With times as they are cash is a little hard to come by so thought the same as you, would replace it myself or even clean it out, and so have done a bit of research also and come up with the exact same as yourself, superceded egr and cooler, superceded short pipe and replacement long pipe. problem is, try as i might i cant find any leek in the short pipe and no noticeable hissing is evident, it only seems to smell when it throws a wobbler and goes into one of its dpf regen moods.
After a bit of research, i cant see why an egr cooler is necessary anyway. ok hot exhaust gas is being recirced, but how much cooler is this item making it ?Diesels after all are more efficient running hot, not all diesels have egr coolers, just a recirc valve. Introducing exhaust gas is also believe it or not done to actually cool the engine as the lack of free oxygen in the charge air reduces combustion of fuel in the combustion chamber on overrun, therefore surely a better engine mapping to reduce fuel at this point would be of more use eg reduced fuel consumption and less nox and particulates thus eliminating the need for all these costly eccentricities. Any thoughts ? Any how, it appears im stuck with it so have had to turn the heating off in order to save for these items, so with an icicle hanging off my snotter and a blister on the end of both of my typing fingers im off to stand over a candle to warm up.
After a bit of research, i cant see why an egr cooler is necessary anyway. ok hot exhaust gas is being recirced, but how much cooler is this item making it ?Diesels after all are more efficient running hot, not all diesels have egr coolers, just a recirc valve. Introducing exhaust gas is also believe it or not done to actually cool the engine as the lack of free oxygen in the charge air reduces combustion of fuel in the combustion chamber on overrun, therefore surely a better engine mapping to reduce fuel at this point would be of more use eg reduced fuel consumption and less nox and particulates thus eliminating the need for all these costly eccentricities. Any thoughts ? Any how, it appears im stuck with it so have had to turn the heating off in order to save for these items, so with an icicle hanging off my snotter and a blister on the end of both of my typing fingers im off to stand over a candle to warm up.
I’ve had the same problem with the egr cooler splitting and allowing coolant into the exhaust recirculation. Upon replacing the egr cooler o also found the elbow at the back of the egr cooler had split and was allowing fumes into the cab.
£280 for the cooler and another £50 for the elbow. Managed to fit both of these within a day without previous experience but it was a nightmare as there is a nut and a bolt under the cooler which then has a steel pipe fitted in front of them both so took almost two hours just to remove those two.
Had a go myself and managed to replace full egr cooler and valve in one within 8 hour. Most of this time was spent getting to the separate but and bolt under the cooler that has a steel pipe fitted in front of is making it almost impossible to get to. The rest of the time I spent getting the sockets I had dropped out of the engineIt looks all on top of the engine - almost as if it were designed for an easy repair!
Where did you get gasket for the cooler? I've searched and searched and can't seem to find the gasket between egr and cooler
Hello! I apologize for resurecting an old post.
Is there a good video that explains it in english? I've found one guy that does it in Polish and in German. Two different T6 EGR changes (he wears different shirts!)
Can someone translate the important bits? Thanks!!
German:
Polish:
Is there a good video that explains it in english? I've found one guy that does it in Polish and in German. Two different T6 EGR changes (he wears different shirts!)
Can someone translate the important bits? Thanks!!
German:
Last edited:
TALLANDREW
New Member
So in the first section he says it was difficult to get out with hidden screws, he says the complete part is very expensive so he buys a repair kit to get the electric actuator which breaks and then he cleans the cooler.
he then says there‘s no drain tap for the coolant so remove the lowest pipe
then remove the filler tank he is happy that the car isn‘t that old and he can easily remove the pipes.
there are 2 sensors one is broken.
after getting it is out he cleans it with brake cleaner and carbon cleaner. New seal to be sure of good seal.
In it goes hidden screws are pig, takes the weekend off because it annoyed him so much, he changes the fuel filter while he‘s there.
He uses a vacuume pump to fill the system because there are so many places which catch air, vacuume test also checks his work.
He starts the car lets it run and runs the AGR setup to calibrate the AGR.
Good video I’d tackle the job after seeing that.
he then says there‘s no drain tap for the coolant so remove the lowest pipe
then remove the filler tank he is happy that the car isn‘t that old and he can easily remove the pipes.
there are 2 sensors one is broken.
after getting it is out he cleans it with brake cleaner and carbon cleaner. New seal to be sure of good seal.
In it goes hidden screws are pig, takes the weekend off because it annoyed him so much, he changes the fuel filter while he‘s there.
He uses a vacuume pump to fill the system because there are so many places which catch air, vacuume test also checks his work.
He starts the car lets it run and runs the AGR setup to calibrate the AGR.
Good video I’d tackle the job after seeing that.
Thank you for that !!!
From a comment on the youtube video where i also asked for translation of the important bits:
"Hi Tom, not much use to translate as nearly all is shown in the video.. except 1 VERY important point. The EGR is mounted on a spiderweb style bracket and that bracket is hollow. Between the bracket and the EGR is a set of small pipes, what I describe as bobbins. These bobbins also have seals. You must replace the seals because if it leaks then the egr has to come out. For more access remove the fuel filter and washer filler neck. EDIT: the bracket is hollow as coolant runs through it, to cool the egr valve, the other coolant connections are for the egr cooler matrix. If that makes sense!"
My t6 150 dsg is a late 2018 and it still has the older 04L131512T if that helps.
I have just had to replace the EGR valve on my 2012 Tiguan 110K miles, all of the same symptoms as above. EGR is behind the engine just above the sump joint. The pipe to the inlet manifold bolts onto the back of the head and then another pipe from the front of the head to the inlet manifold. Removed engine cover, air filter box air pipes to turbo and heat shield on turbo from above. Underneath access is very limited so unbolted offside drive shaft, pipework for oil supply and return to turbo. Getting the cooling pipes off of the EGR was a real flaff then 4 bolts holding EGR on and elec connection. Removed EGR and replaced with one from Autodoc made by Ridex which is German manufacturer for Autodoc, new EGR is a dead ringer for the old one. Total price with gasket set was £151 delivery was fairly good by Evri. Only courier that hey use. Fitted new EGR bolted metal pipes back on and snapped one of the bolts off. EGR back off again and managed to get remains of bolt out of the EGR, my lucky day! Inspected remains of bolt and it looked like it had already started to rust, Changed the bolts for steel cap heads, to be fair it only looked like one bolt was affected by rust. Refitted EGR and put back together car is now a runner, needs a good run to make sure all is OK. I would say check or change the bolts on the metal pipes to be safe.
Not sure how you would do this job on a 4 motion as there is not a lot of room. Also noticed that the DPF which sits behind the engine vertically has got the whole exhaust system attached to it, there are people who can clean them now.
Baz
Not sure how you would do this job on a 4 motion as there is not a lot of room. Also noticed that the DPF which sits behind the engine vertically has got the whole exhaust system attached to it, there are people who can clean them now.
Baz
Official VW manual is pretty clear about this - change the bolts/gaskets during every refit. They state the mandatory replacements at the beginning of every chapter. There is clearly a reason for that (although in some places - an overkill).
Similar threads
