WARNING - towbar mounted bike racks
- Thread starter minicharli
- Start date
I think that's a brilliant idea - along the same principle as the breakaway cable on a trailer, it won't stop a mechanical failure but it will reduce the severity of the consequences.
It's a problem. The obvious thing is to tighten the bolt with all your might, but then you risk threading and weakening it. Catch 22. I'll defo check mine more often now rather than just kick it when we stop to see if it moves
Thats interesting - I had to change the bolt/nut as it stripped.
Given that I have that exact combination of rack and towbar, I am interested in the potential cause of the failure.
I also understand that the whole thing has been stuffed under the front of a car at speed, so difficult to determine.
The lock handle appears to be fully down, so that probably didn’t pop up, but would be interested to know if it is still locked in place.
The red/green indicator is showing red, but it would, as there is no towbar head in place.
Anyway, glad that no-one is hurt, and no rush for your diagnosis of what may have happened.
Pete
I also understand that the whole thing has been stuffed under the front of a car at speed, so difficult to determine.
The lock handle appears to be fully down, so that probably didn’t pop up, but would be interested to know if it is still locked in place.
The red/green indicator is showing red, but it would, as there is no towbar head in place.
Anyway, glad that no-one is hurt, and no rush for your diagnosis of what may have happened.
Pete
I have the same combination of towbar and bike rack. The first time I used it I hadn't checked that I had clicked it firmly into place after sliding it away from the car. There's an indicator (green) that pops up when it has been returned fully into place. I drove a fairly short distance, fortunately up a fairly steep incline, and the rack (with four bikes on) slid back, dragging the underside along the tarmac. Had I set off along a level section of road I suspect that it would have been some time before it gave way, probably at speed and with very different consequences. Since this time I have always made certain that the rack has fully returned whenever I have slid it back, and the green indicator has popped back up to show it is locked into place. My condolences for what must have been a very distressing experience.
That has just happened to me. My first time using it and the bolt wouldnt undo. I had to remove the rack and tow bar as one (westfalia detachable) and take it to my garage for some 3 foot breaker bar action. Nut and bolt thread destroyed.
I've had my atera strada dl3 for approx 4 years, never had an issue and we were carrying heavy dh bikes sometimes.
I vaguely remember there was an issue with them in that the casting that accepts the ball of the tow bar could crack if repeatedly overtightened. Not sure if this is/was a material/design fault or operater error.
I'm assuming you had the green part showing?
I was always more worried about the sliding part coming unlocked whilst on the move not the actual whole thing coming off.
I vaguely remember there was an issue with them in that the casting that accepts the ball of the tow bar could crack if repeatedly overtightened. Not sure if this is/was a material/design fault or operater error.
I'm assuming you had the green part showing?
I was always more worried about the sliding part coming unlocked whilst on the move not the actual whole thing coming off.
I’m keeping the new nut and bolt well greased!!
Some companies don't seem to record a towbar as a mod. I always insist that my insurance company make a note on the file that I've declared I have a towbar fitted. Makes it harder for them to wriggle off the hook, if god forbid, something like this happens.
What a nightmare - sorry to hear about that. I had one of these Atera on my previous car (discovery) and it was great, but after a few years I noticed it didnt grip as tight. They supplied a shimmy to go in the 'cup' so it locked down tighter. Then a few years after that I realised the handle was all the way down and it wouldnt lock tight. I couldnt resolve it as I noticed it flop from side to side on the back of the car. It went over the tip after that. It was one of the factors that made me buy a van as carting bikes around caused me great anxiety.
@Dellmassive a few more photos as promised. The handle is down and still locked in position so the clamp is still in the closed position although I don’t know if this was the case before the car strike. And signs of a few scratches on the towbar itself. I just want to point out that both the towbar was new and the carrier nearly new from a forum member. Luckily A Plan and the underwriters are sorting the third party damage. Worrying about that gave us a sleepless night. We are just down a carrier and two bikes. Thanks all for the comments and kind words
Have you reported this to the carrier manufacturer for their feedback? Probably blame it on operator error but might hightlight an underlying issue to them.
I doubt this will have anything to do with it, but you are supposed to take the paint off the ball before use. Alko hitches on caravans have pads in them that grip tighter onto the ball. The paint has to be removed so as not to contaminate the pads. It might just be that the clamp didn't get quite enough purchase on the painted surface.
Every day a school day! I never knew that but was aware not to grease them.
Me neither! Surprised it's not more widely referred to! As @Paynewright says - every day's a school day!
@minicharli really glad nobody was hurt, that’s obviously the main thing.
This thread jumped out at me as we run the same rack/bar combination and drove the same stretch of road that day with our bikes on.
Regarding the paint I can completely see the reason for removing when towing. Stabiliser pads rubbing on the ball etc. But can’t see it making a huge difference when clamping a rack on that’s in a fixed (non-swivelling) position.
We have done many thousands of miles with 4 bikes on our Atera, you can see how the tow bar paint has worn below, (bar still on from yesterday)
The only thing that jumps out to me is how tight down it was clamped. I know it had an impact but in the pictures the handle is down fully. With ours it only clamps down to 65-70 degrees. IIRC the instructions said very clearly not to clamp down too far/tight, only enough to grip it and allow the spring loaded button to pop out.
This definitely isn’t a criticism just might help others.
All the best.
This thread jumped out at me as we run the same rack/bar combination and drove the same stretch of road that day with our bikes on.
Regarding the paint I can completely see the reason for removing when towing. Stabiliser pads rubbing on the ball etc. But can’t see it making a huge difference when clamping a rack on that’s in a fixed (non-swivelling) position.
We have done many thousands of miles with 4 bikes on our Atera, you can see how the tow bar paint has worn below, (bar still on from yesterday)
The only thing that jumps out to me is how tight down it was clamped. I know it had an impact but in the pictures the handle is down fully. With ours it only clamps down to 65-70 degrees. IIRC the instructions said very clearly not to clamp down too far/tight, only enough to grip it and allow the spring loaded button to pop out.
This definitely isn’t a criticism just might help others.
All the best.
Thanks all. I knew this was a popular combination ( the main reason I went for this myself - tried and tested ) so thought it best to highlight. Never heard of removing the paint on a new towbar so hopefully this is good info for others along with not over tightening with the handle. We were always paranoid of not fastening it on enough so maybe went too far the other way and feel this rather than a manufacturing defect is to blame. When the bikes are eventually replaced they will be kept in the van for transportation but that’s just me and a loss of confidence.
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