WARNING - towbar mounted bike racks

[j4ckal]

@minicharli really glad nobody was hurt, that’s obviously the main thing.

This thread jumped out at me as we run the same rack/bar combination and drove the same stretch of road that day with our bikes on.

Regarding the paint I can completely see the reason for removing when towing. Stabiliser pads rubbing on the ball etc. But can’t see it making a huge difference when clamping a rack on that’s in a fixed (non-swivelling) position.

We have done many thousands of miles with 4 bikes on our Atera, you can see how the tow bar paint has worn below, (bar still on from yesterday)

View attachment 80964

The only thing that jumps out to me is how tight down it was clamped. I know it had an impact but in the pictures the handle is down fully. With ours it only clamps down to 65-70 degrees. IIRC the instructions said very clearly not to clamp down too far/tight, only enough to grip it and allow the spring loaded button to pop out.

This definitely isn’t a criticism just might help others.

All the best.

RE. amount tightened on to the ball, mine never gets anywhere near horizontal, as you say just enough to make it go green.
It was one of the things that was warned against either in the instructions or the installation video of the place where I bought it, can't remember. I think tightening down/pushing the handle towards horizontal was one of the reasons for the castings, where it locates on the ball, failing. I'll have to google this as it was 4 or 5 years ago when I bought mine and I'm sure I read about it somewhere, hence my reluctance to overtighten.

 

[Paynewright]

Thanks all. I knew this was a popular combination ( the main reason I went for this myself - tried and tested ) so thought it best to highlight. Never heard of removing the paint on a new towbar so hopefully this is good info for others along with not over tightening with the handle. We were always paranoid of not fastening it on enough so maybe went too far the other way and feel this rather than a manufacturing defect is to blame. When the bikes are eventually replaced they will be kept in the van for transportation but that’s just me and a loss of confidence.

Have you looked at the casting to see if cracked?

 

[Jack T]

RE. amount tightened on to the ball, mine never gets anywhere near horizontal, as you say just enough to make it go green.
It was one of the things that was warned against either in the instructions or the installation video of the place where I bought it, can't remember. I think tightening down/pushing the handle towards horizontal was one of the reasons for the castings, where it locates on the ball, failing. I'll have to google this as it was 4 or 5 years ago when I bought mine and I'm sure I read about it somewhere, hence my reluctance to overtighten.

From memory the green band appears a soon as it’s located/seated on the ball. I don’t think the clamping force changes the green indicator. The video you mention I think from from roofbox website is informative.

 

[j4ckal]

From memory the green band appears a soon as it’s located/seated on the ball. I don’t think the clamping force changes the green indicator. The video you mention I think from from roofbox website is informative.

Yes you are correct. Not used mine for last year as not had tow bar fitted to the new van yet.

 

[TimT6]

Firstly - sorry to hear about the heart sinking moment where one of your prides and joys parts way with your other pride and joy.
Grease is great on a swivel tow.
Grease is terrible on a non swivel connection.
Paint should be removed if advised by manufacturer of appliance to be fitted to towball
It is not always neccesary to remove the paint. But generally is advised.
You can use a breakaway cable to attatch to your bikes and carrier to be safe - my dad has an old carrier that is about 35 years old that says EXACTLY THAT. It certinaly helps to circumvent this particular situation from happening.

The new (uber fancy..) thule tow hitch rack says this type of accident can happen if the lock is overtightned and/or the carrier is/or overloaded. i dont remember reading about the breakway cable thing though (weird, maybe the swedes forgot what they writ 35years ago..)

Anyhow, i hope you are resting easy in the knowledge that everyone is fine and your not getting your arm twisted herroundously from the situation.
fingers crossed that premium isnt too high next year..

 

[rover220]

Grease is terrible on a non swivel connection.

Execept an alko or similar hitch.

No grease if friction is required. No paint if friction is required.

 

[TimT6]

Agreed.
What you said is even simpler way of putting it

 

[MikeB]

I've never heard it was necessary to remove paint from a (new) towball. Re your misfortune, you'll probably never know what happened. Although I can't help but wonder if that vertical scratch isn't some sort of witness mark and whether earlier comment as to whether the rack had indeed slipped back may well be valid. I've certainly had instance of the locking mech not fully engaging / the green pin not having fully come up.

 

[Paynewright]

You’re not the only one. We passed a police car on the hard shoulder of the M74 today with a heap of bikes on the verge.

 

[TimT6]

Yesterday was just crazy... just crazy. I was nearly involved in a 6/7 car pile up on m4. Didnt see it happen fully but the outer lane suddenly stopped.. had to swerve into hard shoulder. Two cars were munched 4 or so others were scuffed etc.. happened about 10 secs up the road..
Another reason that I also disagree with 'smart motorways'
But yeah, seen a couple bikes here and there occasionally..

 

[MikeB]

I’m keeping the new nut and bolt well greased!!

Bolt? What is this bolt of which you speak?

 

[Paynewright]

Bolt? What is this bolt of which you speak?

My witter 4 bike tow bar mounted carrier has an M14 bolt and captive nut to clamp the carrier to the tow bar. The thread stripped after a handful of uses so will keep it well greased and not tighten as much.

 

[rover220]

I wouldn't grease the bolt. That will increase the risk of stripping.

 

[Linoleum Bonypart]

Just thinking would this happen to a Thule....

 

[Paynewright]

I wouldn't grease the bolt. That will increase the risk of stripping.

Is that for the same reason you dont (normally) grease wheel nuts / bolts as lubrication means you over torque?

 

[Broadside]

Just thinking would this happen to a Thule....

In my experience no it wouldn’t. The Thule clamp works with a large in built lever so you never tighten it with a separate tool.

I have tried setting the Thule carrier too hard but all that happens is the lever won’t close and the carrier drops. You could technically set it a bit too loose but the idea of stripping a bolt during normal use sounds like a bad design issue to me.

I’ve had 3 Thule carriers upgrading each time as my family grew and they have all been great. Up to this point I had always assumed Atera were of a similar clamping style and quality because they are similar money, this thread has been an eye opener for me.

 

[Paynewright]

In my experience no it wouldn’t. The Thule clamp works with a large in built lever so you never tighten it with a separate tool.

I have tried setting the Thule carrier too hard but all that happens is the lever won’t close and the carrier drops. You could technically set it a bit too loose but the idea of stripping a bolt during normal use sounds like a bad design issue to me.

I’ve had 3 Thule carriers upgrading each time as my family grew and they have all been great. Up to this point I had always assumed Atera were of a similar clamping style and quality because they are similar money, this thread has been an eye opener for me.

It was probably my fault over tightening. A secondary bolt fitted after its clamped up means there is no chance the carrier can fall off even if the main bolt fails. It might droop but cannot come off the tow ball. Witter do make a handle operated clamp version but that is more expensive.

 

[Ayjay]

Do any manufacturers specify a torque for these bolts? If not they're a disaster waiting to happen for a moron like me (and probably a fair few others!). If they don't, there might even be some comeback.

 

[Paynewright]

I’ll need to RTFM

 

[TimT6]

Tis why my dad bought the thule 3 bike (mainly coz we have cheating bikes. the ones with batteires in...) for the load capacity and the design meanign it cant be done wrong (at least, for the time being) - im sure there was a bolt tightnening type bike rack in the foggy backstory that had a bolt threading issue and we went back to the trusty on roof bars.. the problem, i think we can all agree, is cheap chinese steel...