Excuse me?!!! It isn’t that sort of forum!I'd love that to make a nice pickup!
Excuse me?!!! It isn’t that sort of forum!I'd love that to make a nice pickup!
I’m not sure. My van was registered in May 2016, from some manufacturing dates I’ve seen on other components I suspect it was built in March 2016.Sorry to butt in but does a euro 5 caac 140 engine have this problem. I cant find a label on my egr cooler to identify type fitted.
I have had the van from new and haven't heard of this before, thanks.
It’s a different animal, If I were you I’d look a bit further into it, you might even find a helpful main dealer mechanic.Thanks for that, my build was 11/15.
My egr unit appears different from the previous pictures and is at the back of the caac 140 hp engine.
Sorry to butt in but does a euro 5 caac 140 engine have this problem. I cant find a label on my egr cooler to identify type fitted.
I have had the van from new and haven't heard of this before, thanks.
Yes, indeed a different animal. CAAC engine has no relationship to the mentioned EGR cooler problem.It’s a different animal, If I were you I’d look a bit further into it, you might even find a helpful main dealer mechanic.
you got a nice truck what's the make?G'day people,
In local parlance I've just bought a dual cab ute... or tray top to be more precise but as the glovebox manual is yet to arrive I'm trying to figure out exactly what I've got in Volkswagen jargon.
Being an antipodean model I suspect it was shipped on Noah's boat and thus took forever to be delivered. I fully expect there could be some discrepancies between Australian specifications and those countries with for example, actual fuel standards beyond the "she'll be right" kind of stuff dispensed here.
Build is listed as 8/15 but local compliance was 11/16 & first registration was 31/3/2017..!
Despite that it's only covered 59 000km so far.
I know it's black, 4motion, 6 speed manual sadly without a rear diff lock. There's factory alloy wheels installed bythe dealer, better aftermarket tray, drawers, air helper springs & Bilstein dampers all round. I'm lead to believe it's a 4cyl 2litre diesel and there's a couple turbos that make 132kW/400Nm (175 'awsepower?)
The stickers in the door jambs are of course full of code but none of it means much to the untrained eye, so I thought I should ask the experts... because the local dealers aren't much use in my experience.
It seems likea pretty good jigger so far but I've got a couple pressing concerns at the top of the upgrade list.
Firstly it needs an electric trailer brake controller fitted... the existing trailer base appears to have just been hacked into the rear loom with scotchlock connectors :/ So I don't know if there's a control module, factory wiring kit or anything else already fitted except that I'll need a brake light signal to feed the electric brake unit.
Secondly, all the locals driving Tojo Landcruisers, Navaras etc are mad for installing aftermarket crankcase breather catch cans... like this thing :
VOLKSWAGEN TRANSPORTER (T5-T6) 2.0LT HPD CATCH CAN
“Protect your investment fit HPD’s oil separator kit.” HPD’s Australian made billet CNC machined oil catch can / oil air separators have been designed to reduce the amount of oil from the engines crank case breather entering the intake system. The issue is with the oil entering the intake system...hpdiesel.com.au
Is there a good reason not to use one of these on Europe's finest emissions dodging engineering?
Thanks in advance anyway...
Cheers
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Very good post! Interesting info and an entertaining read too! Thank youG'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!
The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.
For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.
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They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.
View attachment 135614
But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!
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G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!
The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.
For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.
View attachment 135613
They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.
View attachment 135614
But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!
View attachment 135615
Hi Cat,G'Day Ernie. Bit of confusion here with the trailer brakes and us Europeans. This side of the commonwealth (us Poms) don't have electro hydraulic trailer brakes. Trailer brakes are just actuated by mechanical reaction on the tow hitch. Unless you're ~>3 tonnes, then they're air brakes!
The towbar wiring and prep that's been mentioned in the thread is just for the trailer rear lights. There's no VW solution for your sort of trailer brakes. Your best bet is trying to get a retrofit sensor like a Hydrastar - www.hydrastarusa.com and plumbing it in.
For us locals. The convicts and that lot down under have massive trailers on the back of any Utes. They use the 'Merican system of a self contained hydraulic system on large trailers, with an electric controlled master cylinder on the trailer, actuated by a proportional voltage signal that comes from the towing vehicle's brake system pressure. They then have a mega plug that does trailer lights, and the proportional voltage control of the trailer brakes. Much more substantial than we're all used to. Most of the large Aussie haulers are RHD P150s or XR6 Turbos and the like, and come with their towbar prep that include the brake signal.
View attachment 135613
They also have a break away setup that electrically triggers emergency braking if the tow hitch fails. See the black unit on the trailer with the thin steel cable. If that is tugged, the trailer brakes are applied.
View attachment 135614
But then, this is the usual Antipodean towing setup. Not sure it would work behind a T6!
View attachment 135615
Jeez wept! What did he do? Rub it with an oily rag and call it a service?!!So I've been for my first experience of VW dealer service, with one of the largest and longest established motor groups in the state capital.
They also sell other premium eurotrash like Audi, RangeRover & Jaguar with different doors and different staff for them.
Anyway the upshot is that I've been defrauded by the c#nts with the shitiest service I've ever seen.
$65 (£34) for a pollen filter they did not install.
$181 (£96) for a diesel filter
$13 (£7) for brake fluid they didn't flush through it
All up :
$930 (£493) for service #4 according to the service book they didn't fill out
Everyone else gets the car washed but mine is "too tall for the washbay" so they didn't even bother cleaning the windscreen.
The "screenwasher check and adjustment" seemed to miss a hole in the flexible line between bonnet and body, water pissing out of the LHS escaped their attention.
Yes the tyres are shot, I know, I already have new ones. Do the brakes have squealers built in? They don't know, probably a warning light..?
Turns out it needs brakes soon and they -don't- have them in stock... largest dealer in a city over 1 million... who'd have thought?
Anyway I should ask what the actual service schedule is for this vehicle... because I'm going to go back and thump the counter about how little I've got for my money.
I've been told by a fellow local enthusiast that he would prefer to change the oil & filter in the haldex more often than they specify. Dealer didn't listen to my request...
Any suggestions as to oil spec or intervals for the 6 speed manual?
I'm also keen to change engine oil more often because 15000km is a travestey... especially when the dealer hasn't ticked the long life oil box..?
Overfilled it with "Castrol EP LL III 5w30" actuallyJeez wept! What did he do? Rub it with an oily rag and call it a service?!!
At least he used longlife oil!Overfilled it with "Castrol EP LL III 5w30" actually
$126 (£67) for however much it holds.
And $46 (£24) for a filter