True - so the search continues? Inside the "unknown" box?
Wheelchair Shuttle to Camper build
- Thread starter Steved55
- Start date
Just before Christmas I bought a low mileage t6 which had been professionally converted for rear access with a wheelchair and hand controls to aid driving. With help from you guys and a visit from Dav tec I managed to remove all the hand controls and return seating and driving to standard (still some elects to sort for the ramp and tailgate controls. This post is a quick summary of the work involved in chopping out the wheelchair ramp!
The rear bumperettes, and ramp cabling were removed along with the ramp sections that could be unbolted
I bough a 'floor cut ' from a breaker which arrived much bigger than I asked - this proved to be very useful
To maintain rigidity, I opted to chop out the ramp in two section, the rear up to the inner wishbone crossmember then the rest.
The rear section was cut from the floor cut in one and welded in place
The rear suspension, exhaust, fuel tank and guard, undertrays and parking brake were then removed and the remaining ramp sub assembly cut away in sections.
I cut the floor so that the replacement would be sitting on the chassis flanges and invisible from beneath. The ends of the chassis rails were then all marked out and squared off in preparation for installing the new floor. Because of the accuracy required, I opted to remove the floor skin from the purchased floor cut by drilling out all the spot welds! The replacement chassis rails were then accurately measured off and cut from the replacement chassis.
The chassis rails were then accurately trimmed and welded in place
Finally the sheet floor was trimmed and welded in place
Just the underside to re build then on to next phase!
The rear bumperettes, and ramp cabling were removed along with the ramp sections that could be unbolted
I bough a 'floor cut ' from a breaker which arrived much bigger than I asked - this proved to be very useful
To maintain rigidity, I opted to chop out the ramp in two section, the rear up to the inner wishbone crossmember then the rest.
The rear section was cut from the floor cut in one and welded in place
The rear suspension, exhaust, fuel tank and guard, undertrays and parking brake were then removed and the remaining ramp sub assembly cut away in sections.
I cut the floor so that the replacement would be sitting on the chassis flanges and invisible from beneath. The ends of the chassis rails were then all marked out and squared off in preparation for installing the new floor. Because of the accuracy required, I opted to remove the floor skin from the purchased floor cut by drilling out all the spot welds! The replacement chassis rails were then accurately measured off and cut from the replacement chassis.
The chassis rails were then accurately trimmed and welded in place
Finally the sheet floor was trimmed and welded in place
Just the underside to re build then on to next phase!
Very impressive. It’s going to be great
Fantastic work. It amazes me what is achievable when you are a capable workman!
Need to bleed after removing fuel tank?
Have just re installed fuel tank after being off van for about 4 weeks (t6 150dsg) and flattened the battery trying to start it! Recharged the battery and after about 30 seconds cranking she fired up and seemed to run perfectly on the drive. Next day exactly the same, took about 30 seconds...
Throttle pedal replacement
Hi - I want to change out my throttle pedal as it has been cut and shut as part of the mods for hand controls. I've undone the pivot bolt nut but the bolt itself cannot be withdrawn because of the footwell. Does the complete pedal box have to be unbolted to give clearance? Thanks Steve
Hi all. I'm in the process of stripping all the extra tailgate stuff off - currently I have pulled the fuses on the "extras " and the new floor has a fixed tailgate latch.
Tailgate opens and closes ok from the tailgate switches, locks ok on the remote, but will not operate from the key fob which has a tailgate button - is this a coding issue?
Should the park pilot system stop the tailgate opening if parked near an obstacle?
There are no internal switches for operating the tailgate - is this normal?
Is it possible to piggy back onto existing wiring for another switch?
Many thanks
Carrying on with the removal of the electrical mods - pics attached of the electrical control box under the passenger seat - now removed - and the second control box from the near side rear wheel arch. From the rear box, there are connections to the ramp motor, to the hand held controller for ramp and tailgate, to the front power supply box, and two wires which are connected to two brown wires which disappear into the roof. I have disconnected these and removed the whole lot. Tailgate works fine from the tailgate switches - the only issue I have is what these wires are connected to as they somehow controlled the tailgate operation. I have also discovered that the tailgate power latch - not currently fitted - is electrically connected to a box bolted to the wheel arch, not to the mobility add on box - is this the original Vw fitment? I have plugged the power latch in and it doesn't currently operate. Any help greatly appreciated and if anyone wants anything from the control boxes give me a shout!
Final piece of the jigsaw!
Everything extra that had been installed in the as part of the wav conversion has now been removed with the exception of
Electric parking brake - this is now a stand alone system and I will retain
The two connections from the rear control box which have been spliced into the rear loom. These have disconnected and taped up at the box and now I have removed the headlining, can easily be de soldered. For my interest I wondered if any electrical guru could advise what they are connected to?
One wire is spliced into white cable numbered 219, and the other to 54 - I have been unable to find these on the current flow diagrams.
Just a couple more things which are not major but advise appreciated
When the ramp was fitted the latching was by a power latch. The rear end I have welded in has a fixed pin which is working fine, but out of interest I plugged the power latch into the lead from the control module to see what happened when the tailgate shut - and nothing did! What normally triggers the power latch?
The tailgate open is not registering on the mfd - all other doors ok
Tailgate has never operated from the key fob - is this an option or standard?
There is no internal switch to open/ close the tailgate - again standard or option?
Sorry to ask so many question!
Thanks in advance
Steve
Everything extra that had been installed in the as part of the wav conversion has now been removed with the exception of
Electric parking brake - this is now a stand alone system and I will retain
The two connections from the rear control box which have been spliced into the rear loom. These have disconnected and taped up at the box and now I have removed the headlining, can easily be de soldered. For my interest I wondered if any electrical guru could advise what they are connected to?
One wire is spliced into white cable numbered 219, and the other to 54 - I have been unable to find these on the current flow diagrams.
Just a couple more things which are not major but advise appreciated
When the ramp was fitted the latching was by a power latch. The rear end I have welded in has a fixed pin which is working fine, but out of interest I plugged the power latch into the lead from the control module to see what happened when the tailgate shut - and nothing did! What normally triggers the power latch?
The tailgate open is not registering on the mfd - all other doors ok
Tailgate has never operated from the key fob - is this an option or standard?
There is no internal switch to open/ close the tailgate - again standard or option?
Sorry to ask so many question!
Thanks in advance
Steve
AMazing work. ANd here is me worrying about removing the rear bumper to fit a towbar.
I cant help with all but:
Tailgate has never operated from the key fob - is this an option or standard? By operated do you mean open or unlock?
There is no internal switch to open/ close the tailgate - again standard or option? Internal switch is not standard on all vans.
219 could/should be ground - mating with brown wire at the connector.
By any chance 54 - 3rd brake light? (as per DIN terminal designations)
What colour wire the "54" mates at the connector (or what pin)? (For brake light would be black/red - pin 8)
Skyliner - tailgate unlocks from fob but does not open - fob has a tailgate button
Mmi - both wires were connected to the rear control box installed by brookmiller to operate tailgate and ramp ( now removed) from a separate hand control on a flying lead so shouldn't involve the brake light. I have had a play this afternoon and if I ground one of the wires it opens the tailgate, grounding again opens it. The other one does nothing when the tailgate open but when closed it sounds like the strut motors try to run but tailgate doesn't open!
Mmi - both wires were connected to the rear control box installed by brookmiller to operate tailgate and ramp ( now removed) from a separate hand control on a flying lead so shouldn't involve the brake light. I have had a play this afternoon and if I ground one of the wires it opens the tailgate, grounding again opens it. The other one does nothing when the tailgate open but when closed it sounds like the strut motors try to run but tailgate doesn't open!
barriegardner
New Member
How did it work out? I’m looking at the exact same vehicle to transform into a Caravelle setup. Was it worth the time, effort, expense? Thank you
Hi @barriegardner - it's not a job for the faint hearted! I'm very happy with the end result. I bought the shuttle for about £21k nearly 2 years ago - 2016 shuttle se , 36k miles with dsg. Cost me less than £1k to get it back to std but many hours work over a 3 month period and probably saved £5k. Times free to me as I'm retired!
The electrical mods took the most effort to sort - just got to be methodical. I managed to sell a lot of what I stripped out.
Do you have a link to the one you looking at.
Mines a full camper conversion now - done 15k miles since completion and not missed a beat. Let me know if you take it on
Steve
The electrical mods took the most effort to sort - just got to be methodical. I managed to sell a lot of what I stripped out.
Do you have a link to the one you looking at.
Mines a full camper conversion now - done 15k miles since completion and not missed a beat. Let me know if you take it on
Steve
barriegardner
New Member
Thanks for the response. Did you manage it yourself ? This is the van I’m looking at: Used Volkswagen Vans for sale in Wallington, Surrey | CMW Car Sales Limited
Thanks very much. Barrie
Yes - did it all myself apart from help from dav Tec when I managed to accidentally disable a canbus connection! The pics of that van looks v similar to what I had - converted by a company called Brook miller. Although that's a t6, if it's 140 hp it's the euro 5 engine, the euro 6 is 150 hp- worth checking if ulez is a priority - otherwise looks ok
