@Ketan , I've had no luck, and it looks like you and I have the only 2 vans in the world without deadlocking so there is no one else looking for a solution to this. However, just on a whim I put the part nos for the deadlocking locks that @Pauly listed from his van into Ebay - and lo and behold they are the same parts as Polo, Ibiza (essentially the same car) , but bizarrely as the pre-facelift T5!!
But then the part nos from mine bring up locks from the same cars/vans. So it looks as if the same lock actuators have been used within the VAG group for at least 10yrs, presumably with the lower cost part without deadlocks being fitted to the bottom end vehicles in each range and the deadlocking ones further up the range.
So, it would seem to me that the lock actuators (there's no need to change the keys I would have thought as they don't affect the physical keyhole and the remote/chip would be coded to the BCM rather than locks I would have thought) with the part nos listed as having deadlocking would be a direct replacement - it would just be a question of how the van could be coded to make the Safelock function work. The cost for the 3 locks looks to be around 110 UKP so quite doable, but there's no point if they can't be made to work correctly
But then the part nos from mine bring up locks from the same cars/vans. So it looks as if the same lock actuators have been used within the VAG group for at least 10yrs, presumably with the lower cost part without deadlocks being fitted to the bottom end vehicles in each range and the deadlocking ones further up the range.
So, it would seem to me that the lock actuators (there's no need to change the keys I would have thought as they don't affect the physical keyhole and the remote/chip would be coded to the BCM rather than locks I would have thought) with the part nos listed as having deadlocking would be a direct replacement - it would just be a question of how the van could be coded to make the Safelock function work. The cost for the 3 locks looks to be around 110 UKP so quite doable, but there's no point if they can't be made to work correctly
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I'm just getting more confused about this. I had half decided to buy one door lock of the other part no to swap it over and see if I could see the differences, but I've managed to find exploded diagrams for my lock and the one that Pauly found was in his and they're IDENTICAL. Reading through pages and pages of parts listings and sales it looks like they were used interchangeably, along with a third type, for all T5s, T6s, Polos, Ibiza, Vento, Beetle from 2004 to date. From this it's looking more likely that all the locks have this capabiity and it's just coding and/or wiring that's enabling deadlocking.
@Pauly is there any chance you could put a third van's VIN into ETKA and see what part nos that throws up for the door locks? I know I moan about this all the time, but there's a big difference between breaking a window and grabbing stuff and breaking a window and immediately being able to open all the doors and cart all your belongings away! The lack of deadlocking is actually colouring my opinion of whether I want to even keep a van that I bought to last me for the foreseeable future
@Pauly is there any chance you could put a third van's VIN into ETKA and see what part nos that throws up for the door locks? I know I moan about this all the time, but there's a big difference between breaking a window and grabbing stuff and breaking a window and immediately being able to open all the doors and cart all your belongings away! The lack of deadlocking is actually colouring my opinion of whether I want to even keep a van that I bought to last me for the foreseeable future
Hey Andy. Thanx for the reply and sharing what you have found. I really feel your pain, it really is shit IMO that our vans don't have this feature so some odd reason. Have you seen you can fit aftermarket dead locks that are completely independent from the electric locking system, it would be a hassle opposed to being able to use key and also be unsightly to have additional barrel in the door but ultimately will fix your problem. I'm hoping Pauly can find something in the coding that's an easy cheap fix but not holding my breath. Have you asked VW if they know if it can be turned off/on as required? I was going to ask when I get my first service done.
Had a play and ran some vans through etka i did a 65, couples of 16, a 66 & 3 x 17 plates and they were a mix of PV/kombi/california, i used mine loz walski pukka andythom studley plus a few more whose owners i dont know
Everyone of them had the drivers lock part number 3B2 837 016 AA
I believe them all to be UK highlines
Everyone of them had the drivers lock part number 3B2 837 016 AA
I believe them all to be UK highlines
Thanks @Pauly. Not sure where I go next with this now.
'Pillars' or 'posts' commence from the front.
So the 'A-post' is the one that the windscreen is mounted to; then working backwards the 'B-post' is the one that the front door shuts onto. They are the main structural columns of the vehicle.
They are a very useful naming convention for people in the fire and rescue service as we shout out instructions for which post to cut next when undertaking extrications.
Many thanks for the information on this. I have only had my T6 two weeks and was wondering about the strange "Safelock" message on the dash. The manual was not helpful. But I think I now understand.
Just to add my findings. My Highline deadlocks (cant get out from inside) with one press of the key fob, this also seems to set the alarm as there is a periodic flash from the LED on the door. Another slightly delayed lock of the keyfob and the deadlock comes off and light stops flashing. One I will note well as I often press the keyfob multiple times to make sure its locked. I noticed that a third press of the key fob deadlocks and sets the alarm again.
Hope this helps someone.
Just to add my findings. My Highline deadlocks (cant get out from inside) with one press of the key fob, this also seems to set the alarm as there is a periodic flash from the LED on the door. Another slightly delayed lock of the keyfob and the deadlock comes off and light stops flashing. One I will note well as I often press the keyfob multiple times to make sure its locked. I noticed that a third press of the key fob deadlocks and sets the alarm again.
Hope this helps someone.
nacetu
Member
Hi,
I noticed that when I lock the car by remote control the sound of locking was 2 times click - click, but now when I lock it goes only one time click.
I searched the manual and try to turn on Safelock and I get the sign when I but out the key that it is turned on but the lock in the doors still goes 1 time click.
Any ideas why only 1 time click?
I noticed that when I lock the car by remote control the sound of locking was 2 times click - click, but now when I lock it goes only one time click.
I searched the manual and try to turn on Safelock and I get the sign when I but out the key that it is turned on but the lock in the doors still goes 1 time click.
Any ideas why only 1 time click?
and, have you tried getting out from inside after having locked the doors with your key fob?
nacetu
Member
I am from SLOVENIA car is year 2018 it has 4800Km and it worked like I say 2 times click-click when you lock before but now it only works 1 time I do not know why...
I have put the onboard computer in default settings and other than Time and Language was not changed...
"and, have you tried getting out from inside after having locked the doors with your key fob?" YES and you can get out...
I have put the onboard computer in default settings and other than Time and Language was not changed...
"and, have you tried getting out from inside after having locked the doors with your key fob?" YES and you can get out...
nacetu
Member
Anybody have any idea what to do? there is no function to turn it ON or OFF... I am shore of that... I hear 2 clicks when I open it but only one click when I close it... If I sit inside and close by remote control button it only clicks one time and I can get out by puling the handle 2 times.
My car has Alarm and the sign is always displayed "Safelock" when I shut off the car
I’ve no idea other that to return it to the dealer, assuming a 2018 van there is within the manufacturers warranty period still..
When I got my 17 plate highline it didn’t deadlock.
The LED indicator on the driver’s door would flash quickly, then illuminate constantly for 30 secs or so. This indicated there was a problem with the locking, and wouldn’t deadlock.
I had a scan of the van, and the ultrasonics were open circuit, as they weren’t plugged back in following the pop top install.
Plugged back in, cleared the codes, and it deadlocks every time now.
Spaghettiboy78
The LED indicator on the driver’s door would flash quickly, then illuminate constantly for 30 secs or so. This indicated there was a problem with the locking, and wouldn’t deadlock.
I had a scan of the van, and the ultrasonics were open circuit, as they weren’t plugged back in following the pop top install.
Plugged back in, cleared the codes, and it deadlocks every time now.
Spaghettiboy78
