Any log burner experts on here?

marsie

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We have just had a new summerhouse and shed put up and I have an old (but VGC) 8kw dual fuel log burner. Just wondered first of all if it was safe to put in a wooden building and secondly if it is how do I fit the chimney so it exits through the wood side safely
Don't want to end up with a 14x10ft bonfire

It will only be used occasionally and when we are using the shed so will never be left unaccompanied
Thanks
Paul
 
I'd sell it if it is in good condition and buy a second hand small one, if you leave a gap around the back and sides and have something non-combustible for it to stand on, and behind it up the wall (tiles/stainless steel sheet metal/hardiebacker board) pack it out so there is an air gap between the material and the wood wall.

if you used a twin-wall flue you can exit the wood leaving an air gap around it, then screwing a stainless steel plate either side to make it weather tight again.

with all that being said I am not an expert its just my own thoughts on it.

this link should help you

 
As others have said, 8KW is far bigger than you need, however, I've got an 8KW wood burner and they are like cars, you can drive a high performance car slowly.
I can load my stove lightly and not let too much air in so that it's only on "half throttle" and doesn't overheat the room.
On that basis, and cost, I'd stick with what you've got.
I'd stand it on some slabs and you need to make sure that there are no hot surfaces close to the timber of the shed.
A stove pipe thermometer on the single skinned part of the flue nearest to the stove will help you to regulate the air intake so that your stove doesn't get too hot.
 
We have a 5-8kw in the large lounge, and a 2-?Kw in the small home office. Both work best when loaded fully, with decent wood, inside in a house its important to run them to temperature to make sure the chimmney / flue isn't gunked up.

Things to bear in mind:

- Summerhouse unlikely to have insulation so will need more heat
- Once lit woodburners shouldnt really be left un attended. Once lit they tend to burn for a couple of hours atleast and need fettling to get them to right temperature
- You need the wood, looking for offcuts and scraps is a nice hobby but very time comsuming cutting to size, most people end up buying a trailer load, which needs storing in a proper store
- You need to have the burner a certain distance from any conbustible material. I know the distances as we use them in timber buildings at work, but to be to code you need to check yourself
- You'll likely to need a plinth to put it on, and a non conbustible boards put on wall
- Flue will need to be put through the wall / roof, being timber you'll need to have a gap and stuff with intumescent material (again there are regs for the gap size)
- Remember the C02 detector (and maybe fire extigusher)

I love our woodburners, and they are saving us money at the money on heating the house, but not sure about the application you suggest. A fan heater is loads less hassle, if less romantic

You could go down the more simple route, utilise the burner, make a simple flue, get some plasterboard and experiment.
 
Would highly recommend using a professional wood burner installer. After which would issue you with a HETAS certificate. Otherwise any insurance claims would be null and void. Basically use thermal lined flues, and where the flue passes through the roof, requires an asbestos collar. Not just a gap, which would be great ventilation letting out all that expensive heat out. As above a non combustible plinth, as in slate, concrete pad. To be on the safe side, 2 metre width floor to ceiling of non combustible wall liner, behind the fire. Don't forget that the air intake needs to be from the outside of the room, possibly an air brick/vent behind or under the actual burner. Otherwise any air to be oxygenating the fire, would be coming through gaps in the doors and windows, a wee bit draftee. Our wood burner heats a 1,050 sq ft bungalow.
 
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Well worth the insurance and HETAS certification. So so many uses; hot tub, sauna, teenage music room (sound insulation obviously. Art studio, office, could go on for ever, just as not it's the extra place for the defunct gym bike and Christmas decorations.;)
 
@marsie
Try a electric heater in there, just to give you an idea of how quickly and warm it can be.
My summerhouse is 12x10, walls are insulated , and underlay with flooring.
I put a small electric heater in there, ( I know that sounds expensive at the mo) but it warms up quickly, and is switched off within 30mins.

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if you do want to go down the insulation route Marsie check out 'Oakwood Garden Rooms' on youtube, he has a video that covers every aspect of summer houses.
 
Thanks guys. Think I may just go down the electric heater route. Will only be used occasionally and after considering having to light the log burner and wait for it to get up to temp I could probably have already heated it with electric and no mess. Watch this space, maybe a nice 8kw dual fuel log burner for sale soon
 
Ever considered solar panels on that wonderful flat roof, maybe with solar battery back up. However as previously suggested insulate the roof and walls, maybe jabdeck (2" thick solid foam with foil backing). Then either plaster board or ply. Then let the kids loose to decorate, you can always redo after they have left the nest. ;)
 
Ever considered solar panels on that wonderful flat roof, maybe with solar battery back up. However as previously suggested insulate the roof and walls, maybe jabdeck (2" thick solid foam with foil backing). Then either plaster board or ply. Then let the kids loose to decorate, you can always redo after they have left the nest. ;)
Think there are too many trees around, it probably only gets a couple of hours sun a day
 
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