Audio Upgrade Stage-1 . . . . Blam Relax 200rs Speakers From Skipton.

It doesnt seem to have worked no. Trying a slightly thicker piece of rubber today and gonna wash it see what that does. Im positive its only started since the speakers were fitted.
 
It doesnt seem to have worked no. Trying a slightly thicker piece of rubber today and gonna wash it see what that does. Im positive its only started since the speakers were fitted.

Please let us know how ya get on, I've still got the problem !
 
Something I've noticed over the last few days of rain is that rain water can build up above the secondary door seal if you have then fitted...

Seemed odd at first, but I can now see how water could get trapped..

But not dripping out the door card or dripping out speakers... just water when opening the door after rain dropping from the secondary seal area to the ground., and some rain spots on the foot step.

It seems some water can get trapped between the primary and secondary seals.

Might be worth cutting a water drain slot somewhere at the bottom.
 
Hi there I think I may be able to help here as About a year or so I bought the Blam RS 200 speakers as a kit they done from Absolut 5/6 back then Jason gave some good advice to make a kind of hood out of the sound deadening at the top of the speaker then fit the speakers upside down so as to protect the speaker terminals from the water . I had these fitted for a year . Then I had a problem with one of them . I took the speaker out to send it back for testing and left the door card off until I got the replacement in that time I washed my van and was surprised to see how much water had came through the speaker hole onto the inside door step .This is because as it runs down the outer window through the seal & drops directly against a ledge (outer door skin shape) which then splashed through the speaker hole or the back of the speaker when it’s back in . Now when I originally fitted these speakers I see the speaker spacer rings are made of a painted mdf & being bathroom fitter I silicone sealed them to the door & also smoothed silicone around the inside of the spacers to the back of the speaker . This may sound a bit OTT but I’ve never had a problem before or after fitting the replacement another six months ago
So I think this must be where some have getting a leak. I can also highly recommend the blam as they made a unbelievable difference to standard head unit . Graham
 
Something I've noticed over the last few days of rain is that rain water can build up above the secondary door seal if you have then fitted...

Seemed odd at first, but I can now see how water could get trapped..

But not dripping out the door card or dripping out speakers... just water when opening the door after rain dropping from the secondary seal area to the ground., and some rain spots on the foot step.

It seems some water can get trapped between the primary and secondary seals.

Might be worth cutting a water drain slot somewhere at the bottom.

I have exactly the same problem, and endeavour to get round to fixing it one day.
 
With all the talk of water inside the door (normal, I know - that's why there are drain holes), has anyone considered the wisdom of lining anything on the "wet" side with audio foam as carried out at the beginning of this thread?

I picked up a speaker upgrade kit on my way past Skipton Car Radio (SCR) on Friday, and have just ordered additional sound deadening and audio foam that I intend to use inside the door when I do the install. However, if the foam holds water, I'm now thinking that it might not be such a good idea...?
 
FWIW - the sound deadening and dense foam i used here doesn't hold water like a sponge as such. . . . its more of a rubber type stuff. (the water run off it rather than being soaked into it)

some people have mentioned about fitting a shield (piece of plastic or foam over the top side of the speaker)

i never done this, the speakers have been running for a year now and haven't had any water issues.
 
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FWIW - the sound deadening and dense foam i used here doesn't hold water like a sponge as such. . . . its more of a rubber type stuff.

some people have mentioned about fitting a shield (piece of plastic or foam over the top side of the speaker)

i never done this, the speakers have been running for a year now and haven't had any water issues.

Thanks for clarifying. I'll be checking the foam I've ordered before using it (if it holds water, I'll not use it in the door), and will attempt to fabricate a shield over the speaker as well.
 
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Thanks for clarifying. I'll be checking the foam I've ordered before using it (if it holds water, I'll not use it in the door), and will attempt to fabricate a shield over the speaker as well.
You would be better using the likes of dynomatt or something similar on the inside of the door then you won’t have a problem with it holding water
 
You would be better using the likes of dynomatt or something similar on the inside of the door then you won’t have a problem with it holding water
Agreed.
I've got some on order as well, but will look at using both where practicable.
 
Just reading through this thread, as I'm looking to update my standard speakers, and I have a question to ask regarding the water in the footwell issue.
As well as sealing the speaker to the door, have people checked the routing of the speaker cables, from wet side to dry side?
If they are pointing down from wet into dry, then water can, and usually does, run down them. Had this on many an old upgrade.
As I've not had the door apart I don't know how the standard cables run, or if indeed this could be possible? This could explain why some people are having the issue, and others not.
I'm just concerned about water ingress on a brand new van, and don't want to go down the route of a speaker upgrade if it's going to cause issues.
I think I'll do some more research before I finally decide. It will definitely be the Blam RS200's though. Not sure what to use in the rear though. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
Just reading through this thread, as I'm looking to update my standard speakers, and I have a question to ask regarding the water in the footwell issue.
As well as sealing the speaker to the door, have people checked the routing of the speaker cables, from wet side to dry side?
If they are pointing down from wet into dry, then water can, and usually does, run down them. Had this on many an old upgrade.
As I've not had the door apart I don't know how the standard cables run, or if indeed this could be possible? This could explain why some people are having the issue, and others not.
I'm just concerned about water ingress on a brand new van, and don't want to go down the route of a speaker upgrade if it's going to cause issues.
I think I'll do some more research before I finally decide. It will definitely be the Blam RS200's though. Not sure what to use in the rear though. Any suggestions? Thanks


We do many speaker kits, from Blam, Focal, Audison,Eton and others and always give our secret out to buyers on how to prevent water issues, which dosent cost a penny to do
 
@Dellmassive big respect for putting up all the details of your Blam speaker installation. I'm literally using it as guidance for my own very similar project.
I'm very amateur when it comes to DIY. Can you remember what size self drilling screws you used to attach the new collars to the rivet holes? Is this an easier solution than putting in new rivets with I'm guessing a specialist rivet tool!?
Hope the set up you've got is still sounding good as it's the route I'm going down!
 
we used self drilling Tek screws on the screw-gun/electric drill,

like these . . . https://amzn.to/2U1VqoP

in an ideal world you would use a rivet gun and new pop-rivets.

or try Riv-Nuts.

but as i knew the speakers were coming back out shortly to add more sound deadening i used the self drillers . . .

and yes all still fitted and sounding great.
 
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We do many speaker kits, from Blam, Focal, Audison,Eton and others and always give our secret out to buyers on how to prevent water issues, which dosent cost a penny to do

@Absolut5 - when are you going to setup your "online shop" for us people that cant get to you as a B&M shop, but want to buy from you online? (like myself)

what are our options?

also whats the secret on "how to prevent water issues, which dosent cost a penny to do" - what do i need to buy to find this T6 gem out?
 
@Absolut5 - when are you going to setup your "online shop" for us people that cant get to you as a B&M shop, but want to buy from you online? (like myself)

what are our options?

also whats the secret on "how to prevent water issues, which dosent cost a penny to do" - what do i need to buy to find this T6 gem out?

I’ve been saying I’m going to do it over the past 2-3 years, but I did it before and stopped as no matter how clear the descriptions, people kepted ordering the wrong items, then They became angry and then the returns etc..

For the past 8 years we have done incredibly well with owners just dropping us pm, email or phoning up... which I prefer as you build a relationship instead of being just another internet seller.

However I have been in touch with the website builder lately to discuss the possibility again

Jason
 
Blam 200Rs and tweeters fitted a few weeks ago after sound deadening the doors. Great improvement sound wise but I'm finding the tweeter volume a bit too much and possibly detracting slightly from then new improvement in sound. The tweeters are advertised as having adjustable db levels via the crossovers.... Is it possible to somehow adjust the volume of just the tweeters by somehow fiddling with the crossover units? I'm running them at the minute just off the bog standard vw head unit if that makes any difference. I seem to remember some sort of wiring diagram on the back of the crossovers but theyre glued in now and im a diy biff so would rather not rip them out if theres nothing i can actually change! Anyone any ideas?
 
Blam 200Rs and tweeters fitted a few weeks ago after sound deadening the doors. Great improvement sound wise but I'm finding the tweeter volume a bit too much and possibly detracting slightly from then new improvement in sound. The tweeters are advertised as having adjustable db levels via the crossovers.... Is it possible to somehow adjust the volume of just the tweeters by somehow fiddling with the crossover units? I'm running them at the minute just off the bog standard vw head unit if that makes any difference. I seem to remember some sort of wiring diagram on the back of the crossovers but theyre glued in now and im a diy biff so would rather not rip them out if theres nothing i can actually change! Anyone any ideas?
The tweeter black crossovers have 3x wires.

Odb
-3db
Ground.

So just move the the tweeter plus from 0db to -3db to reduce the sound level.. (they have bullet connectors,)

The crossover is most likely behind the A pillar.
 
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