Barn-door To Tailgate Conversion
- Thread starter Ads_Essex
- Start date
Just checked the decoder file with what you have @motochamp125 and what @mmi suggested.
Try ^ coding first and see what you get.
Further to that...
Do you have a rear wiper installed? Byte 14 bit 3 shows you have. If not, change that from 1 to 0.
Do you now have LED tail lamps (standard, no resistors) installed? If so, consider changing byte 18 to hex 73.
What about LED numberplate lights? If OEM LED consider changing byte 27 to hex 3F.
Try ^ coding first and see what you get.
Further to that...
Do you have a rear wiper installed? Byte 14 bit 3 shows you have. If not, change that from 1 to 0.
Do you now have LED tail lamps (standard, no resistors) installed? If so, consider changing byte 18 to hex 73.
What about LED numberplate lights? If OEM LED consider changing byte 27 to hex 3F.
motochamp125
New Member
thank you for the feedback Guys @Ads_Essex @mmi i somehow didn`t have access to the forum for couple of days. looks like my internet provider messed it up.
So the case is that wiring loom of the tailgate had the T17 (female side) cut off. So I only have the T17 (male side) from the body side. so for the door release motor (W139) I rooted a wire directly (bypassing T17 of the body) to pin 10 . from the door switch (handle E234) I rooted directly (bypassing T17 on body side) to pin 23 of BCM. I assumed that since I wire directly from E234 and W139 to BCM I do not need pin13 & Pin 14 on the T17 Body side to be bridged back to the BCM 10 and 23. I guess that is the mistake. I will bridge them today in several hours and let you know the result. I also just noticed I missed to make the connection B437 the lock and handle. I used the bellow diagram.
I don`t have LED lights and i don`t have rear heating and no rear viper.. I only have red Number plates. i will update the coding. I am just not 100% sure how to read the full coding as i have done only small changes till now on my old van like Tempomat activation and so on.
thank you again cheers
So the case is that wiring loom of the tailgate had the T17 (female side) cut off. So I only have the T17 (male side) from the body side. so for the door release motor (W139) I rooted a wire directly (bypassing T17 of the body) to pin 10 . from the door switch (handle E234) I rooted directly (bypassing T17 on body side) to pin 23 of BCM. I assumed that since I wire directly from E234 and W139 to BCM I do not need pin13 & Pin 14 on the T17 Body side to be bridged back to the BCM 10 and 23. I guess that is the mistake. I will bridge them today in several hours and let you know the result. I also just noticed I missed to make the connection B437 the lock and handle. I used the bellow diagram.
I don`t have LED lights and i don`t have rear heating and no rear viper.. I only have red Number plates. i will update the coding. I am just not 100% sure how to read the full coding as i have done only small changes till now on my old van like Tempomat activation and so on.
thank you again cheers
motochamp125
New Member
It is working.. it is working 
... after changing the coding to what @mmi advised:
byte 2 from 31(hex) to 39(hex)
byte 7 from 32(hex) to 12(hex)
it got sorted out. Wiring was correct. bellow is the long coding just before hitting the "do it" button.
thank you again @mmi and @Ads_Essex without the info and feedback, the whole process would have been impossible
... after changing the coding to what @mmi advised:byte 2 from 31(hex) to 39(hex)
byte 7 from 32(hex) to 12(hex)
it got sorted out. Wiring was correct. bellow is the long coding just before hitting the "do it" button.
thank you again @mmi and @Ads_Essex without the info and feedback, the whole process would have been impossible
Execllent result!It is working.. it is working
byte 2 from 31(hex) to 39(hex)
byte 7 from 32(hex) to 12(hex)
it got sorted out. Wiring was correct. bellow is the long coding just before hitting the "do it" button.
thank you again @mmi and @Ads_Essex without the info and feedback, the whole process would have been impossible
Thanks for sharing!
Has anyone here done the conversion using oem parts and not used the aftermarket strut mount gubbins? I can't see any reference tonit in this entire thread, nor when searching.
I haven't got access to someone with a t6 and factory tailgate to take a look at how it's constructed. I may go and loiter around tesco car park and hope one drives in and i can jump on the driver for access to his back end to take pictures.
I have done the tailgate conversion a few months ago but not had any luck finding an auto electrician to get the handle, top brake light and number plate lights working. Does anyone have any recommendations? Based in Kent. Thanks
I don’t know of anyone local but am happy to help if you want to send me a direct message.
Stephenmews
New Member
Hi All,
Could someone help me with the coding too please
Could someone help me with the coding too please
Stephenmews
New Member
Thanks @PhillH unfortunately the code from the you tube clip looks nothing like the one i currently have and I can't make head nor tail of it.
My current code - A82CA1BA0A61343192284E106E6B9C55008071FF60860040320000000800
from you tube - A0A8393A0E212091002008102C2B8C500080430F60060000320000000000
Last edited:
Thought I'd chime in with some info I've recently discovered.
I am currently only 7 months into my tailgate conversion, hoping i will get it completed before 2025.
2 rubber bungs live where the tailgate hinge would mount up on a factory tailgate van. I pushed out the bungs and while I was fingering the 2 holes I could see that they are part of/punched into the roof panel. The roof panel is used across the range of T6's weather tailgate or wing doors. Not an uncommon thing to do when it comes to car manufacturers saving money on having to double their tooling for certain parts. Anyway, this panel is single skin, less than 2mm thick.
I'm certain that this isn't how tailgate vans leave the line. I decided to stop and consult the parts cat.
As I'd thought the tailgate vans have a different internal roof cross member, specifically for strengthening and taking the extra load and forces that tailgate would put in that area.
Makes sense, the wing door doesn't require the strength there.
The inner panels inside the 'D' pillars are also different between tailgate and wing door.
Reading a few posts here and on other groups etc i have seen a lot of people who have done the conversion and some time after noticed cracks in the roof panel at the hinge points. This will inevitably be the case for this conversion if the hinges are fitted directly to the roof panel.
This fatigue process obviously speeds up depending on how often you use the tailgate, what kind of tailgate (plain, glazed etc) and even quicker if you have a bike rack on it and stronger gas struts.
I've ordered the panel for the roof, when it arrives i will take some pictures and post them here for you all to see, i cant find any pictures of the panels on't web.
The part numbers, if interested, are
Wing door cross panel 7H1817213D
Tailgate cross panel 7E1817203 (superceded from 7H1817203C)
I am currently only 7 months into my tailgate conversion, hoping i will get it completed before 2025.
2 rubber bungs live where the tailgate hinge would mount up on a factory tailgate van. I pushed out the bungs and while I was fingering the 2 holes I could see that they are part of/punched into the roof panel. The roof panel is used across the range of T6's weather tailgate or wing doors. Not an uncommon thing to do when it comes to car manufacturers saving money on having to double their tooling for certain parts. Anyway, this panel is single skin, less than 2mm thick.
I'm certain that this isn't how tailgate vans leave the line. I decided to stop and consult the parts cat.
As I'd thought the tailgate vans have a different internal roof cross member, specifically for strengthening and taking the extra load and forces that tailgate would put in that area.
Makes sense, the wing door doesn't require the strength there.
The inner panels inside the 'D' pillars are also different between tailgate and wing door.
Reading a few posts here and on other groups etc i have seen a lot of people who have done the conversion and some time after noticed cracks in the roof panel at the hinge points. This will inevitably be the case for this conversion if the hinges are fitted directly to the roof panel.
This fatigue process obviously speeds up depending on how often you use the tailgate, what kind of tailgate (plain, glazed etc) and even quicker if you have a bike rack on it and stronger gas struts.
I've ordered the panel for the roof, when it arrives i will take some pictures and post them here for you all to see, i cant find any pictures of the panels on't web.
The part numbers, if interested, are
Wing door cross panel 7H1817213D
Tailgate cross panel 7E1817203 (superceded from 7H1817203C)
Well done, awesome work.
Who would have thought that the vans would be built differently.
But as you say it makes perfect sense.
Can you drop some.pics and screenshots of the different panels?
And keep us posted on the progress...
Hi I have just checked my van 2016 T6 and the panel mentioned is already part of the van. Mine was originally a barn door. I can see the member/skin you are talking about through the grommet hole top left. The part you mention is the cross member already on the van unless I’m missing something…
There are 2 cross members, the inner one is the one that is different between the 2 types, the outer one is the same for both. Its hard to make out what the inner one looks like. I know there is an additional strengthening plate on the barn door version that beefs up the area holding the top strikers in place. And you can see (at least on my 2018 barny) zero extra flappage at the tailgate hinge holes, its just the roof skin.
Let me just dig out my little blue book and check I've put the (what i think) correct part numbers for the 2 panels. I may well have sliced the ball there....
Wing door cross panel 7H1817213D
Tailgate cross panel 7E1817203 (superceded from 7H1817203C)
These do seem to be the panels that are the different ones between the two types. The barn/wing door panel (the top part number) is half the price of the tailgate/lid door one below it.
Tailgate cross panel 7E1817203 (superceded from 7H1817203C)
These do seem to be the panels that are the different ones between the two types. The barn/wing door panel (the top part number) is half the price of the tailgate/lid door one below it.
Part 27 is the outer most cross panel that is shared between BD and TG.
Part 28 is the strengthening plate for BD top strikers.
Part 3 in the next picture is sandwiched in between part 27 in the above drawing and the roof panel. This part 3 is the part that is different for BD and TG.
Part 28 is the strengthening plate for BD top strikers.
Part 3 in the next picture is sandwiched in between part 27 in the above drawing and the roof panel. This part 3 is the part that is different for BD and TG.
Yes it is. A fair bit of work, but not difficult. Drill out the spot welds and cut through any panel glue to drop the outer cross member, more of that for the inner one. Glue and weld the panels back, paint and job done.
