@Dellmassive will do.

The coils on the charge and load wires go to the BMS and measure power in and out. You can view this real-time on the app. Have a look for Smart 123 BMS.
Eliminates the need for a Victron shunt / battery monitor.

The main advantage is I can control all the Lithium settings in one place. You can also set temperature shut downs. The outputs from the BMS control the Victron SS relays.

I am also running a Victron 2Kw inverter. It’s a beast!
 
2kw ... sweet... at 12v? which one?

I've got the 12v victron 375 and 800. Also Cotek 1000w & 1500w and other smaller ones.

That's about 200A (on a 12v system) under full load? ... have you metered it out under a full load test?

Love the victron kit ..... I use BMV712 smart myself for monitoring.
 
It certainly looks like a good set-up... Thanks for the info... Appreciate it.

A few people are trying to put me off the microwave idea.. But a 2000W inverter isn't that much in the scheme of things and a few minutes use here and there shouldn't kill a 200Ah lithium set up with solar input and a decent dc dc charger providing the engine runs for a bit to regenerate the batteries or I'm not static for days on end...!

I don't know if this kind of set up is something most conversion companies would install or if I would need someone who specialises in that area.. Being a newbie to all this... I am uncovering more questions than answers...!
 
So I have put my power proposal to a couple of conversion companies

2 x 110Ah lithium batteries
50A DC DC Charger
2000 Watt inverter
300 Watt Solar panel with 100/30 MPPT

(I dont have the exact power usage numbers, but based on my opening post and subsequent help think its about right and a fairly balanced set-up for my power hungry madness...! but correct me if I'm wrong..)

So the problem a few of them seem to have is where to put it all....

Where would be the best place to house the lithiums, inverter dc dc charger, mppt..?

Its going into a SWB 4motion, camper conversion with standard kitchen layout, with RIB sliding bed..There is a single passenger seat rather than bench seat.

Would be interested to know if anyone has a similar set up where is it installed.

Thanks
 
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Thats going to be a compromise with space vs kit.

you could fit one battery and the EHU/DC-DC under the drivers seat, possibly the MPPT to.

you could fit another battery under the passenger seat . . . . but depending if you want it swiveling . . . .?

apart from that the inverter/second battery/MPPT will need to be squeezed in around your conversion.

cuppords, under sink, . . . . just about anywhere it will fit . . . .

heres a few ideas . . .


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Thanks dellmassive, yes the passenger seat is a swiveller... So I guess under the sink is as good a place as any and not to far from the other battery under the drivers seat
 
that Smart123 BMS does look good, that was my choice of BMS, until i got lazy and got a drop in battery

Victron do make some great gear, i like the fact you can change charging parameters, there DC-DC buck boost can do 12 volt to 24 volt, which is a good solution if you want to run a 24 volt house battery in a 12 volt van.

Jason, if you are using Lithium drop in batteries, you need to find out if those drop in can be paralleled together, and also the max discharge, as some are limited to 50amps.

I fitted my 240ah lithium battery under the RIB, if i had the room id fit another 240 ah :cool:
 
Thanks Bryn, I will check the spec of the batteries to make sure... Im still in the early stages of planning with time on my side... My new T6 doesn't arrive from the factory for another 16 weeks :(
 
It strikes me that we need the battery producers to start making batteries in different shapes - they don’t have to be the “standard” shape for a leisure battery application.

Pete
 
Lithium batteries are offering some massive advantages over the lead / acid type. Having dealt with a lithium battery fire I don’t think I’d be putting them inside a vehicle unless they were is a very well insulated, reinforced and externally vented enclosure.
The normally carried CO2 or AFFF extinguishers won’t make the slightest reduction on a lithium battery fire. AFFF or pure water in contact with Lithium will create large amounts of Hydrogen which will explode. A Class D extinguisher is required, given the amount of dense smoke a Lithium fire creates it’s highly unlikely anybody will get near a the fire to use the extinguisher.
I don’t think Elon Musk would approve!
 
Good shout that pete, maybe as technology advances they will become smaller as well.

The 2 lithium battery request is giving a couple of the conversion companies real headaches as where to put them. I suggested one under the drivers seat, but was told that space is for the diesel heater...

Another company seem bemused by my power request..." This isnt standard and we could encounter problems" seems to be the replies... I hope I can find a conversion company that buy into my custom off grid conversion that I want and are up to the challenge... Afterall what I am asking isn't that much is it..? compared to what some of you guys have done on here..!
 
Lithium batteries are offering some massive advantages over the lead / acid type. Having dealt with a lithium battery fire I don’t think I’d be putting them inside a vehicle unless they were is a very well insulated, reinforced and externally vented enclosure.
The normally carried CO2 or AFFF extinguishers won’t make the slightest reduction on a lithium battery fire. AFFF or pure water in contact with Lithium will create large amounts of Hydrogen which will explode. A Class D extinguisher is required, given the amount of dense smoke a Lithium fire creates it’s highly unlikely anybody will get near a the fire to use the extinguisher.
I don’t think Elon Musk would approve!


There are quite a few types of lithium batteries, the ones that are being used for these batteries is a less energy dense version called LiFe04.

These aren't the same lithium batteries as in phones, laptops.
 
I used to ship lithium batteries by air freight, they had to be in the manufacturers insulated packaging, stored in steel explosion proof drums with the lids clamped on and labelled as hazardous cargo.
 
I’ve seen lead acid batteries classed as hazardous cargo.

I’m sure you can also class unleaded petroleum and diesel as hazardous, and that’s in the van while driving around 100% of the time.

but at the end of the day, LiFe04 is safe with the correct BMS.

Issues can happen with lead batteries as well, I had a AGM swell and split while charging once. I would say there is more risk with a DIY build than a LiFe04 drop in if they didn’t know what they were doing.
 
@Bryn23 is quite right.

Lifepo4 is a safe chemistry for a Campervan and other installations. Please don’t scarmonger if you don’t know the differences in lithium battery chemistry.
I’m not an expert but have taken sound advice from a friend who has worked in the automotive industry for over 20 years as a safety engineer. He has conducted all sorts of destructive testing on all types of battery chemistry. He is putting an Lifepo4 in his campervan and I have done the same.

@JasonW from my experience in converting vans over the last 10 years I am yet to see a conversion company that can wire a van correctly and safely. I even found scotch locks on a factory Hymer! I would seriously consider going to a company that specialises in lithium conversions and has years of experience. Have a look at onboard energy in Nuneaton. Kevin knows his stuff.
I’m on my second full lithium conversion and still learning. Take a look at Kylesku Campervan on Instagram if you want some inspiration.
 
I have had a lithium leisure battery from the outset, fitted by my converter, and it appears to work well.

I have an NDS setup; 100Ah 3Lion LiFePO4 battery, 3Link controller and display, Power Service Gold30-M charger, 120W (or thereabouts) solar panel, and 1500W inverter. It works well and for a month in Spain April/ May the battery system was self sufficient with no hookup charging.

The problem I do have which I have noted recently on another thread is that the vehicle battery looses charge too quickly when camping and needs a charge to top it up. I don’t know whether or not that problem is associated with my NDS system.
 
I have a 95AH agm battery, 250W panel, Victron 100/20 and a votronic trickle charger to keep the vehicle battery topped up. I run lighting, fridge, electric hot water heater, charge cameras, iPad, iPhone etc and a Victron inverter which I use to charge my EMTB battery. I never need hook up, in fact I’ve stopped carrying a cable.
 
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