Robertspaw
Member
Not at all… seems my indie is following in VWs footsteps a little too closelyNote to self..... read all replies and original post properly! I'm such a dum ass.
Not at all… seems my indie is following in VWs footsteps a little too closelyNote to self..... read all replies and original post properly! I'm such a dum ass.
They’re all in the business of taking what they can, the best we can do is apply some pressure and go elsewhere if the service is sub-standard.Not at all… seems my indie is following in VWs footsteps a little too closely
Had mine done early in the year. Tensioner & belt was approx £200. On the plus side its been quiet ever sinceHi
Just took my 67 plate T6 into the garage for a cam belt and water pump change and asked them to do the aux belt at the same time as I was getting a whistling noise from it. When I took it in I asked them to check over whether it was just the aux belt that needed changing or anything else. I’ve just spoken to them and they now say it needs a new tensioner. Sounds fair enough but they want £270 to replace it. Does that sound fair? I asked them to look at it all together to limit time and cost but it sounds like they’ve done the rest of the work and only just thought about the tensioner when I asked them specifically… just wondered if by doing it this way it’s cost me more? Thanks in advance
Aux‘ belt and tensioner is a quick job and relatively cheap.Hi all. I have a similar noise that has developed on my 2017 t6 (30k miles) recently. I am keen to get it sorted but how does a garage determine the source of the noise? I am keen to get it right first time! From reading the thread, it seems there are 2 main possibilities - aux belt and or tensioner or cambelt/tensioner. I'm assuming 1 is much cheaper than the other to sort! I am out of warranty which is a shame so guessing independent garage can sort the issue. Any advice appreciated.
Thanks for the reply. I managed to get it checked today and it is the aux belt. No mention of changing the tensioner. Is it necessary to do both?Aux‘ belt and tensioner is a quick job and relatively cheap.
I would think it’s unlikely to be a timing belt issue at 30K. It’s very simple to remove the top cover from the timing belt and get to make an inspection for anything obvious.
It’s not necessary but if the aux’ belt fails it has been known to foul the timing belt and that’s catastrophic engine damage time.Thanks for the reply. I managed to get it checked today and it is the aux belt. No mention of changing the tensioner. Is it necessary to do both?
The squealing is the belt slipping, when it slips it is wearing which isn’t good for reliability as it is getting longer.I’ve had squealing on my ‘17 T6 150 California for a while and did the candle trick as mentioned by @Loz to make sure it wasn’t cambelt related. Candle on the outer edge made no difference, but on the inner edge (closest to the engine) squealing stopped after a few seconds.
I’m trying to work out if I should just leave it (can’t really hear the squealing in the cabin and gets quieter when warm - though doesn’t totally disappear), or if I should change the belt, or belt plus tensioner. I put a 16mm on the tensioner and it seems a bit ”sticky”, though there is good tension in the spring it doesn’t return to its starting position I.e. I can tighten or slacken it a bit and it doesn’t fully spring back. How do the tensioner usually fail?
How easy is it to replace the tensioner DIY? I presume you remove the undertray and do it from underneath? Do you need to remove anything else to get to it?
I’m wondering if it could be more of a misalignment of the pulleys as I only had the candle on the edge of the belt, so the squeak must be the side of the belt rubbing on the lip of one of the pulleys. Also noticed the belt overhangs the tensioner wheel by about 2mm.The squealing is the belt slipping, when it slips it is wearing which isn’t good for reliability as it is getting longer.
If your tensioner is sticking that may well be the reason it’s slipping.
One certainty is that it won’t get better by itself, as for ease of replacement, yes it’s a straightforward job.
VIP Membership gets you access to the manuals on the Forum and and much more information.
Could be, if so it was either built mis-aligned in which case it probably would have squeaked before or something has worn / come loose.I’m wondering if it could be more of a misalignment of the pulleys as I only had the candle on the edge of the belt, so the squeak must be the side of the belt rubbing on the lip of one of the pulleys. Also noticed the belt overhangs the tensioner wheel by about 2mm.
That's not good and a disaster waiting to happen.Also noticed the belt overhangs the tensioner wheel by about 2mm.
Good luck, let me know how you get on. Is it a torx bolt for the tensioner?I’ve picked up a new tensioner and bolt today but haven’t had a chance to do it yet.
I can just get to it from the top but it looks like the wheelarch might make things easier.
There’s a PDF in the downloads section for VIP members.Are there any online vids of replacing the aux tensioner and belt?
Dell’s, How I did it?