Cambelt Change DIY CXHA?

[HubertK]

Hello,

Long story short planning on doing my own cambelt change on my 2017 T6 CXHA.

I’ve studied Vag tech video and read manufacturer instructions but have couple questions.

1) Is it essential to loosen both Camshaft pulley and also high pressure fuel pump one?

2) I have noticed in videos and instructions that they remove locking tool on the crank pulley before removing old belt. Then readjust the pulley into correct position and insert the locking tool just before installing new belt? Is there a reason why you wouldn’t just lock it into place whole time?

3) Instructions mention “The crankshaft must NOT be in TDC when turning camshaft”.. I’m bit lost as I thought whole idea of locking pins was to lock everything in top dead center position.

I have attached the instructions I was hoping to follow

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Doing the job 'properly', then use the tools. That way you know it's done 100% spot on

Now, I'll put my flame proof suit on and give my opinion.

I have only ever used timing tools on these engines once, my own one as I was replacing the high pressure pump. All other jobs have just been done by marking the belt to the pulleys, then transfer the markings over to the new belt. Fit the new belt lining the marks to the pulleys, job done.

This is the way I have done them for more years than I can remember and never had any issues. Not just for these engines, but any that don't have floating crank pulleys.

 

[HubertK]

Doing the job 'properly', then use the tools. That way you know it's done 100% spot on

Now, I'll put my flame proof suit on and give my opinion.

I have only ever used timing tools on these engines once, my own one as I was replacing the high pressure pump. All other jobs have just been done by marking the belt to the pulleys, then transfer the markings over to the new belt. Fit the new belt lining the marks to the pulleys, job done.

This is the way I have done them for more years than I can remember and never had any issues. Not just for these engines, but any that don't have floating crank pulleys.

I bought a set of cheapish locking tools so plan is to try doing it “properly”.

In my head to simplify the instructions and videos I’ve watched. Let me know if it sounds like I’m missing something or doing something wrong?

1) Align engine into TDC position and lock all three pulleys with locking pins.

2) Lossen camshaft and fuel pump pulley to allow movement for tension.

3) Take tensioners, water pump off along with old belt

4) Put new belt and water pump on and tension correctly.

5) Torque everything to spec

6) Turn engine by hand twice and check everything again with locking pins, ignoring fact that fuel pulley might be slightly out.

 

[Dundee_Kev]

Sounds fine. Just remember that the camshaft may or may not line up until you loosen the pulley bolts

 

[Vlady]

Hi, I'm just about fo embark on the same job with same engine (cxha). To loosen cam and high-pressure pump pulleys is needed for creating an even tension all over the belt while tensioning it, other wise the tension is applied only on the stretch crankshaft -tensioner -camshaft, and the remaining area of the belt (camshaft -high pressure pump -crankshaft) is not tensioned correctly. This results in excessive vibrations in timing drive which are transmitted to the tensioner and overloads it's friction elements, the tensioner overheats and can fail. Done my homework on this one
Have you done it yet? Please let me know if there is something unusual about this engine. As this one is my first time, despite being a mechanical engineer I only worked with marine engines before and it was 25 years ago..

 

[Vlady]

 

[Vlady]

Guess I just insert crankshaft pulley's bolts in empty holes, as it doesn't have pins welded to it.

 

[HubertK]

Guess I just insert crankshaft pulley's bolts in empty holes, as it doesn't have pins welded to it.

I have used a cheap set from Amazon and it had pins sticking out. I’m guessing laser tool is slightly improved as you use the original bolts which stops the tool from being able to pop out of alignment.

I had a slight curveball with the common crankshaft housing leaking. I would advise checking this before starting job as you will most likely need special tool to undo and tighten the 12 point 19mm crank bolt. (Pulley holder VW3415).

The cambelt belt job it self was very straight forward and can be done in matter of few hours. The crankshaft bolt was nightmare without the special tool. I also replaced the housing for aftermarket one which had rubber gasket all over as didn’t want to remove the oil sump to properly reseal with RTV.

I have attached some of the research which I have done so hopefully it will help.

 

[Vlady]

I have attached some of the research which I have done so hopefully it will help

Wow, thanks a million HumbertK, it's a tremendous help. Plus, to have all the Newton/miter values in one place is a treasure as I was scrambling them all over the net and wasn't sure about some of them, it's great to be able to confirm or otherwise. And I know how much time it takes to do a proper research.
I went with LASER kit as it was the only one that specifically sad that it works with CXHA engine, and being a novice in it I didn't want to take any chances.
What is you opinion about CORTECO crankshaft seal, are you happy with the product. Although I didn't notice any leaks under a van, who knows what I see after toothbelt cover is off.

 

[HubertK]

Wow, thanks a million HumbertK, it's a tremendous help. Plus, to have all the Newton/miter values in one place is a treasure as I was scrambling them all over the net and wasn't sure about some of them, it's great to be able to confirm or otherwise. And I know how much time it takes to do a proper research.
I went with LASER kit as it was the only one that specifically sad that it works with CXHA engine, and being a novice in it I didn't want to take any chances.
What is you opinion about CORTECO crankshaft seal, are you happy with the product. Although I didn't notice any leaks under a van, who knows what I see after toothbelt cover is off.

I was very close to pulling trigger on laser one but crossed reference individual part numbers and everything matched amazon kit and laser one.

I can’t comment on the actually quality and how long seal will last as it’s only been on for just over a week. I made my decision on the fact VW ones fail all the time apparently and not being able to seal it correctly without removing sump was a deal breaker. So far no leaks and Corteco apparently supplies seals for OEM manufacturers so fingers crossed. You should be able to see any leaks on side of your sump if you just take the undertray off.

 

[Vlady]

I can’t comment on the actually quality and how long seal will last as it’s only been on for just over a week. I made my decision on the fact VW ones fail all the time apparently and not being able to seal it correctly without removing sump was a deal breaker. So far no leaks and Corteco apparently supplies seals for OEM manufacturers so fingers crossed.

Thank you HubertK for all insides. Kindest regards.

 

[Vlady]

I was very close to pulling trigger on laser one but crossed reference individual part numbers and everything matched amazon kit and laser one.

I can’t comment on the actually quality and how long seal will last as it’s only been on for just over a week. I made my decision on the fact VW ones fail all the time apparently and not being able to seal it correctly without removing sump was a deal breaker. So far no leaks and Corteco apparently supplies seals for OEM manufacturers so fingers crossed. You should be able to see any leaks on side of your sump if you just take the undertray off.

Hi, HubertK, I just finished the job, can't say it was easy, but made me feel good afterwards. Sure thing the second time will be much handier. One quick question, do you know the torque value for bolts 21,22,23, the only info I found is 40nm+180°, but I feel uneasy to apply such a force to bolts that going into an engine block without confirmation. And should I change all mounting bolts for new ones as recommended by manufacturer or it's OK to keep them till next timing job.