Camper electrics

TheGrapeEscape

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Not sure if this is in the right section or not, so mods please move if it is.

As many will have seen, I picked up my first camper at the end of April.

It came semi converted (everything but the bed and 240v electrics)

Yesterday I removed the o/s rear carpeted panel and found the ctek charger the previous owner had installed.

Question is, I'm putting a 250v socket, fuseboard and a couple 13a sockets in as my next project.

I am an electrician by trade, so standard electrical wiring is no worry for me. However, is there a way to run the existing 6 x 12v downlights into the 240v supply?

Usually when fitting 12v dc lights, I'll use a 240 - 12v transformer, but as the lights are already wired into the sergeant, I'm worried I'll ruin something
 
Got a few pics?

The ctek maybe a DC-DC charger for engine charge?

The Sargent has a basic 12.8vdc PSU that's powered from the EHU. (They call it a charger, but it's just a basic PSU)

So well assume your rear led lights are fed from that Sargent.

And when the EHU power isnt available the Sargent uses the Leisure battery 12v, and when EHU is available the Sargent connects in the 12v PSU effectively running the lights and supplying a small amount of charge power to the LB.
 
Yes mate, sure.

I've not taken the panel fully off yet, but found thus. I will be taking the panel off this week to check fully, as I'm fitting a 250v inlet on side.

Screenshot_20240505_084357_Gallery.jpg

Then the inside pod has sink, hob, fridge and leisure battery in cupboard with a little 4 way fuse carrier (pictured in top right cupboard) and powered with a sergeant ac50 control panel

Screenshot_20240505_084615_Gallery.jpg
Screenshot_20240505_084642_Gallery.jpg
 
That looks like ctek d250sa?

The SA is the older version

The d250se is the newer version that add a lithium battery charge profile.

That's a 20A ish DC-DC charger from the engine when running.

It also has the ability to have a solar panel connected to it.
 
Legend mate.

When I get the cover off this week, I'll add new pics. It has a lesuire battery connected, but I'm looking at it all through fresh eyes as it's not my conversion.

Ideally I'd like a solar panel, but again I don't know what I need (apart from the panel)
 
Get a better pic of the model number...

Screenshot_20240505_095859_Chrome.jpg

...

Have a look over here at the solar and DC-DC sections for some background, then you can decide if you want fixed panel or a mobile panel.






...
 
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Cheers mate, will do. I've got the 240v inlet coming today, so I'll get the panel off
 
Depending on how long you're going camping for each time it might be worth looking at swapping to a Lifepo4 battery rather than lead acid as our Waeco fridge draws up to 4.5 amps at 12 volts and hammers a typical 110 Ah leisure battery in a weekend during summer.
Similarly if you replace that Ctek then get something that will do B2B and solar that includes a lithium charger profile too.
 
Depending on how long you're going camping for each time it might be worth looking at swapping to a Lifepo4 battery rather than lead acid as our Waeco fridge draws up to 4.5 amps at 12 volts and hammers a typical 110 Ah leisure battery in a weekend during summer.
Similarly if you replace that Ctek then get something that will do B2B and solar that includes a lithium charger profile too.
Thanks for this, it's all very new to me so I'm starting at the bottom. I'm installing 240v electrics very soon, so on site will be okay, it's just the off grid side of things I'm unfamiliar with
 
What sort of cover is over the CTEK normally and what sort of ventilation does it have?
 
It's got the carpeted panels over top, but no vent. Luckily I'm not putting a full length kitchen in, so can put a vent in next to it.

I take it they get hot?

There's no wool insulation next to the CTEK
 
Few questions.

So, as said above, I have the ctek d250sa b2b charger and a sergeant ac50 control panel (see pics) . I also put a 250v inlet port on my van going to a consumer unit and just 1 2g socket (electrician by trade)

20240511_101536.jpg
20240511_101614.jpg
Screenshot_20240603_115754_Gallery.jpg

I've been looking at a sergeant ec155 to power my van. Am I right looking at this or is it old?

I done my first weekend away in the van, 1 night with no EHU and 1 on the EHU, bit I was worried that having the fridge and lights on would kill the battery

31F9A500-6774-A707-7076-340929A75AB7.lead.jpg
 
If you are installing yourself personally I'd stay away from the all in systems.

They're built for older days of only one type of lead acid battery and non-smart alternators. You'll likely end up disabling most of it in time until it's just a switch panel.

Instead look at decent chargers for each role and an appropriate switch panel. Don't buy anything that's not lithium capable.

Get a good Victron 240v charger in place to support the leisure battery when on EHU.
 
Few questions.

So, as said above, I have the ctek d250sa b2b charger and a sergeant ac50 control panel (see pics) . I also put a 250v inlet port on my van going to a consumer unit and just 1 2g socket (electrician by trade)

View attachment 244123
View attachment 244124
View attachment 244125

I've been looking at a sergeant ec155 to power my van. Am I right looking at this or is it old?

I done my first weekend away in the van, 1 night with no EHU and 1 on the EHU, bit I was worried that having the fridge and lights on would kill the battery

View attachment 244126
There has been a plethora of battery problems lately on the forum, & the Sargent unit has been a common factor.
 
Thanks for the reply both, even though I'm an Electrician, I'm clueless on this as it was In when I bought the van. Ideally I just want to be able to run the 12v system (fridge/diesel heater and lughts) on EHU and leisure battery/solar.

I'd also like a solar panel, but again, clueless although I know I could install it with the right stuff ordered. My current ctek da250sa I've heard is the older version, so I'm thinking rip out and start again
 
To be fair to Sargent that's more of a causal relationship, nothing inherently wrong with the units. It's just they are the wrong solution for a lot of folks and they are now very dated in a world rapidly needing more from an electrical system.

Should they ever produce one with native DC-DC that's aware of Lithium...
 
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