Camper electrics

You'll get 2 connectors on quick connect sockets - one with clamps one with eyelets.

Looking at your picture a potential is to connect the negative to the negative bus bar and use one of the spare ways in your fuse box for the positive to ensure it's fused. You'd need to crop off the eyelet and crimp on a standard blade connector to do that. You'd also want to cable tie the cable to something solid so you don't put any strain on the connections.

If you were wiring permanently I'd say wire the 240v side in, but for now it may be more flexible to leave it as a plug so you can also use it to top up the starter if you wanted, so long as that works where your 240v sockets are?
 
You'll get 2 connectors on quick connect sockets - one with clamps one with eyelets.

Looking at your picture a potential is to connect the negative to the negative bus bar and use one of the spare ways in your fuse box for the positive to ensure it's fused. You'd need to crop off the eyelet and crimp on a standard blade connector to do that. You'd also want to cable tie the cable to something solid so you don't put any strain on the connections.

If you were wiring permanently I'd say wire the 240v side in, but for now it may be more flexible to leave it as a plug so you can also use it to top up the starter if you wanted, so long as that works where your 240v sockets are?

I'm going to put an unswitched 1g socket in that cupboard I think, flexed off the current 2g I put in on the radial circuit (back rear 1/4)

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Can I just piggy back on this and ask how long( hours wise ) does it take to fully charge a leisure battery on hook up when it’s getting low??
 
Can I just piggy back on this and ask how long( hours wise ) does it take to fully charge a leisure battery on hook up when it’s getting low??
Simple maths - if it's a 100Ah battery and it's at 20%, and you have a 10a charger - you need to put back in 80Ah, which will take 8hrs. A 10 amp charger puts in 10a per hour.

Plus a bit as the charger reduces the amps in the last 5-10% of the battery.

Oh and minus any draw on the battery, so if you've got something running that's using 2a, you'll only get 8a from the 10a charger.
 
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Adding to @TallPaul_S notes 20% is fine for lithium but if it's a lead acid battery 20% is far too low to let it get to, look to charge as soon as you're under 50%

Don't be tempted to think that charging at higher current is the answer, for long term battery life general charge rates should be about 1/10th C where C is the capacity - so a 100Ah battery aim for around 10A.
 
Right I think I’ve got that, I only ask as I’ve been charging the van with EHU, for 3-4 hours at a time for a few evenings now and it doesn’t seem to want to charge past 3/4’s, it just doesn’t get to fully charged. I’m off work tomorrow so I’ll keep it charging for over 12 hours , to see if that works

Thanks lads
 
If you can add pictures of the charger and it's state at different points that helps folks see what you're seeing.
 
It just stays at this charge point , like I say I’ll give it a full days charge tomorrow

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That looks like a PMS3 style all in one system - they're not so much chargers as power supplies so it may take a while to reach full charge. A more modern multistage charger will be more effective and show better what is going on.
 
I’ve had it on this morning and it’s now at full power!, took another 4 hours, that was a long charge! Must have been 14 hours in all‍♂️

Thanks lads
Good news, yes if it's not a multistage charger it will take longer.

It's a good thing your converter has put very clear instructions on the PMS3 (as that's a common source of confusion) but I would advise for long term health you keep the battery at a 12v minimum not 11v - treat anything below 12v as "turn off as much as you can and get it recharged asap" and 11v as "turn everything off otherwise the battery will be permanently damaged"
 
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Yeh I won’t be letting it go below 12v, , the battery is supposed to be ok off grid for at least a couple of days when fully charged and with the solar panel. The voltage meter was reading over 12, 12.4v but the light strip said low, that through me a bit. Anyway fully charged now I’ll keep an eye on it
Thanks
 
The following devices are installed in my campervan.

Solar panel 160W
Sterling Power charger DC to DC BB1230
Regulator For Solar Modules CBE PRS 300
Battery AMG 110AH
I have purchased NOCO GENIUS10UK, 10A Car Battery Charger
My question:
Being at a campsite where there is an electric pole available, where in the van should I connect the NOCO Battery Charger correctly so that I can fully use all my devices, e.g. fridge connected to 12V, chargers on 12v

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Solar panel install looks tidy and the Noco Genius will charge a lithium battery too apparently but I'm guessing the install is probably off grid and limited by the modest AGM battery?
 
My VAN has no other external connections to the EHU, I use a 15m orange one with adapters


I was thinking of fitting a socket on the front grill. (this will be an option at a later date)


110Ah AGM battery mounted under the passenger seat behind the battery charge indicator.
I bought an Alpicool compressor refrigerator and only for this reason would I like to have the option of connecting a 220V Noco charger.

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EHU.jpg
 
Just put a female blue 16A plug to 13A trailing lead as the bare minimum install between your Noco and the incoming orange flex.
 
If you're keeping the install ghetto then yes via the crocodile clips will work.
With all the kit you've already got you could go for a more conventional campervan type install but it's down to your situation.:thumbsup:
 
I understand that connecting to the battery with screws would be correct and a better solution than via a plug into the cigarette lighter socket?

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