As said above...but we put in drain channels due to high water table..I need to lift my block paving as its sunk a bit in the wheel tracks. Need to decide of to put blocks back down or something else.
As said above...but we put in drain channels due to high water table..I need to lift my block paving as its sunk a bit in the wheel tracks. Need to decide of to put blocks back down or something else.
As said above...but we put in drain channels due to high water table..
Drain channels are always a good idea it stops your drive or garden getting water logged
Drain channels are always a good idea it stops your drive or garden getting water logged
Thanks, mine are Marshalls bricks. So it must be the substrate not good enough.Just beat in mind that you get different thickness bricks for block paving.
The usual BnQ type are quite thin, about 2”, whereas you can by commercial bricks which are about 3” thick.
This makes quite a difference as the support comes from how tightly knit the bricks are packed together and bricks with large sides tend not to sag.
Having said that, a proper foundation is the key thing, plenty of hard core, type 1 and whacked down.
I went down 24” when I did mine and it’s solid.
There’s nowt stopping you lifting and reusing the bricks once you’ve sorted the base out.
Ah, done the job properly, especially where there is a lot of clay. The only fear with a high water table, is that it comes up through the soakaway. Strikes me that whoever did your drive had more than an inkling of what they were about. Good on you
Hi Drainage channels ( plastic type ) are designed to take surface water away and are either connected to surface water drains or to a soak away....in my own drive I dug a series of french type drains to take the water away....but it really depends on each individual garden/drive where the water would be drained too....This may be a daft question but where do the drain channels go if the water table is quite high?
Mine was too, but I couldn't find it for a while. A skip collection fixed that............the driver put a telescopic stabiliser over it and went to lift the fully loaded skip. (Have you ever seen a skip driver go pale? I have!)Hi Drainage channels ( plastic type ) are designed to take surface water away and are either connected to surface water drains or to a soak away....in my own drive I dug a series of french type drains to take the water away....but it really depends on each individual garden/drive where the water would be drained too....
@Qais2020 ...perfect solution.......mine was deep pit back filled ( old school )
I’ve filled skips so heavy ...lorry cab was of the ground ....but the driver didn’t put the legs out ..he soon did..always in a hurryMine was too, but I couldn't find it for a while. A skip collection fixed that............the driver put a telescopic stabiliser over it and went to lift the fully loaded skip. (Have you ever seen a skip driver go pale? I have!)
That is the risk! Ask a local, they’ll know what floods! And, it is getting more frequent with the new-build estates that are being whacked up. Remember the floods last year - somewhere called Fishlake or something like that. Jeez, the clue was in the name!!!At the back of my garden / house is an area of farmland on a Moss, so its pretty high water table. I reckon if I dug a pit like the one in @Qais2020 photo it would very quickly fill with water and become a pond.
Hi ...My carport when first put in was fine but as the water table got higher ..I dug it all out and raised the concrete base higher..buts it’sAt the back of my garden / house is an area of farmland on a Moss, so its pretty high water table. I reckon if I dug a pit like the one in @Qais2020 photo it would very quickly fill with water and become a pond.
Ouch! A foot of soil, 4 feet of clay and then chalk all the way! Phew!!!All ground levels are different up and down the country. Where I live now in the northeast the soil is only at 1ft and then it’s clay and All garden’s get water logged.
You’d be surprised how long a paint would last. Resin bound would go over that area easily and look lovely forever (especially as it sounds like it is very low traffic) but is expensive for what it is.Just reviving this thread as I’ve got tired of looking at my concrete driveway.
It was installed probably 80’s or 90’s and is in fairly good condition, but just looks ugly. It’s north facing so gets green after a bit of rainfall. You can see where rain water pools in a few locations. There’s no drain where it meets the footpath, which is level/flush.
The wife told me to paint it but I’d assume the paint won’t last?
As it’s at the side of the house, there’s no dry steering going on.
It’s roughly 18m by 2.7m
I am liking the idea of the resin bound / bonded driveways - how’s yours holding up @Grim Reaper? What did it cost you?
Yeah, that’s what I’m trying to avoid. It works perfectly well (aside from maybe one puddle) but looks a bit industrial estate esq.If you have the slab up, you’re into “start afresh” territory, for sure!
I know exactly what you mean, but that was the rage back then! A quality garage floor paint will do wonders and some incorporate a good “grip”. If you then introduce “joint lines” or a geometric pattern with another colour, it will break up the expanse of paint!Yeah, that’s what I’m trying to avoid. It works perfectly well (aside from maybe one puddle) but looks a bit industrial estate esq.
Good to learn that paint does last. Cheers.
Maybe the Mrs is on to something..!