Driveway Parking For Van

[david173]

+1 for @JOG 's advice. The concrete would be an excellent base for a natural stone or concrete slab product over the top. In fact for vehicle loading, especially a driveway which is prone to channelisation where the wheels run, concrete would be the preferred foundation type unless you get into really chunky expensive slabs and thick sub base layers.

Only thing I would be cautious of with the resin bound solution would be to specify a non-permeable product if you choose to direct lay it over the concrete. A lot of resin types are permeable which could lead to water permeating through and sitting on top of the concrete/within the resin product. This would be bad news in the winter if subject to freeze thaw action and could result in premature failure of the surface. However, I would check with the resin manufacturer if their product is classed as a 'non frost susceptible material' in which case shouldn't be as much of an issue. Something to consider anyhow!

 

[Skyliner33]

We make a soak away drainage system

Something like this in the garden or at the front of the house.

View attachment 91359

Maybe a stupid question, but what stops those plstic box things filling with mud?

 

[VanDamMan]

Just beware with natural stone…..we had to wash the backs with a PVA Glue ( other products available ) this allows the cement mix to bond …Check with supplier …..we also used a resin based jointing compound ….If it’s at the side of the house and buts up to the house wall…Don’t build the new level to high as it my effect the damp course…always aim for two bricks below…if you cant leave a 6” gap this you can fill with stone

 

[JOG]

Maybe a stupid question, but what stops those plstic box things filling with mud?

Nothing! Same as loose gravel picks up mud. Their only purpose is to inhibit the gravel migrating from traffic. (Helps a little with sagging, but that’s a sop for a bad base!)

Rule of thumb: the base is key - the topping (slabs, concrete, pavers, natural stone, gravel….) is simply “top dressing”!

 

[Skyliner33]

Nothing! Same as loose gravel picks up mud. Their only purpose is to inhibit the gravel migrating from traffic. (Helps a little with sagging, but that’s a sop for a bad base!)

Rule of thumb: the base is key - the topping (slabs, concrete, pavers, natural stone, gravel….) is simply “top dressing”!

So, if they just fill up with mud how do they help with drainage?

 

[JOG]

So, if they just fill up with mud how do they help with drainage?

They are “grids”, they have a drainage hole at the bottom of each “pocket”. They clip together to form a latticework that is filled to just above the top with shingle

 

[Skyliner33]

They are “grids”, they have a drainage hole at the bottom of each “pocket”. They clip together to form a latticework that is filled to just above the top with shingle

Are you sure we are talking about the same thing?

 

[Ads_Essex]

Thanks @JOG @VanDamMan and @david173 - food for thought. I do like the look of the resin stuff, so if a decent sub-base being present helps offset the total cost then that’s a win

 

[DXX]

Fred West Patio and Paving Ltd if you want a decent foundation.

 

[Ads_Essex]

Fred West Patio and Paving Ltd if you want a decent foundation.

They don’t travel to these parts..

 

[johnmacster]

Are you sure we are talking about the same thing?

Wires crossed for sure. Think @JOG is talking about the plastic mats you put on the ground and fill with stone, @Skyliner33 is talking about the buried soakaway crates.
And yes, the latter will fill with mud if the crate is not wrapped with geo fabric and a soakaway silt trap isn't used on the pipe.

 

[JOG]

Are you sure we are talking about the same thing?

No, I’m only sure about what I’m talking about! Post a pic of what you’re talking about!!!

Edit: crossed wires. Fixed below!

 

[JOG]

No, I’m only sure about what I’m talking about! Post a pic of what you’re talking about!!!

Maybe a stupid question, but what stops those plstic box things filling with mud?

Ignore me! Crossed wires….I am talking grids for driveways, not soak away frames! Yes, they are wrapped in a permeable material (like the weed suppressor material) to help prevent it filling with mud. However, all the water that comes down the pipes feeding will also contain some silt (sometimes leaves etc) that can build up over the years….every few decades a blocked soak away will need digging out and renewing!

 

[Skyliner33]

Ignore me! Crossed wires….I am talking grids for driveways, not soak away frames! Yes, they are wrapped in a permeable material (like the weed suppressor material) to help prevent it filling with mud. However, all the water that comes down the pipes feeding will also contain some silt (sometimes leaves etc) that can build up over the years….every few decades a blocked soak away will need digging out and renewing!

Thanks.

 

[Grim Reaper]

I honestly can't remember how much it was, around £4500 if I were to guess, though that included the patio area at the rear of the house, the side path, fixing the terracotta edging to the front lawn and the installing edging blocks I had bought beforehand.
It still drains away nicely, hasn't sagged where cars have been parked on it. I jet wash it down occasionally to clean it up and give the edging blocks a recoat with sealer now and again.
The only thing I would say is don't do any metal work anywhere near it if you don't want to see rust spots appear a few months after you ground some steel to shape, I've gone through a lot of rust dissolving/revealing wheel cleaner over the last few years trying to get rid of them.

 

[DanPlumber]

if your block paving use 60mm rather than the standard 50mm blocks
It’s worth the extra for the weight of the van
Whatever the finish surface
It’s the base that needs to be properly done or wether you have block or tarmac it’ll sink
On mine it was half drive half front garden
The drive wasn’t too bad but the old garden had to dig down quite far and put a lot back in
Been down a few years and not had any problems
Except for an oil leak ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Broadside]

Another thread revival if I may….

I’ve got pea gravel in the driveway which I want to change as it gets stuck in shoes and tyre tread. I was thinking of 20mm gravel but then looked at 20mm Cotswold stone gravel. Is the Cotswold stone gravel hardy, I have read that it breaks up and can look a mess in a driveway. Does anyone have any experience of it?

 

[VanDamMan]

Another thread revival if I may….

I’ve got pea gravel in the driveway which I want to change as it gets stuck in shoes and tyre tread. I was thinking of 20mm gravel but then looked at 20mm Cotswold stone gravel. Is the Cotswold stone gravel hardy, I have read that it breaks up and can look a mess in a driveway. Does anyone have any experience of it?

Hi….With any gravel it will create tracks and will still travel off the drive and as for stone it breaks up and goes milky when wet..still think as a DIY project…Plastic grids filled with angular chips or back to old days of a paving slab path….

 

[Chris Sherwood]

I would recommend Beach Shale (gravel).

Nothing to sink, no dust, not easily picked up and a good burglar deterrent as you can hear anyone walking on it.

 

[dubber36]

I would recommend Beach Shale (gravel).

Nothing to sink, no dust, not easily picked up and a good burglar deterrent as you can hear anyone walking on it.

View attachment 174827

We have the same. We finished building our house 4 years ago. Our 'drive' was just broken tarmac and soil during the build. Days before moving in, we needed a quick, cheap way of getting a dry surface, so I thought that a temporary fix would be to scrape away the crap and tip a load of gravel on it. We had a lorry load tipped as best he could and I spent the morning raking and whackering it, then drove over it several times. At a guess I'd say it's around 8" thick. 4 years on it's just as good and not one sign of anything growing through it.