Ec160 no power

@russed68 have you checked the configuration of your CTEK we talked about in the post above - you must make sure it's not in AGM profile if you decide to do the new battery first or you will risk damage due to mild but constant overcharging.
 
Use a multimeter and check the insulation of the circuits when disconnected. No point in using a Megger as too easy to damage equipment and it’s only a 12v circuit.
No battery required for these tests.
 
I've confused matters by uploading the wrong pic of the leisure battery . The solarplex was the original and was a dud so six months ago it was exchanged under warranty to the one below. There's a thin black and red cable to the neg/pos terminals which gives the profile , is this correct for the battery that I have ?

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Unless the battery explicitly says AGM or EFB then you want to ensure the CTEK is not accidentally in AGM profile by connecting the black lead to ground.

So that picture is a standard/wet/flooded battery and not AGM/EFB

Tanya batteries is always a good reference:

 
Could be part of the problem then , currently the black cable is connected to the neg battery post. (Done by local garage , not the van conversion company)
 
Feel like I'm starting to understand what the set up SHOULD be , thanks to you guys. Had a closer inspection and discovered that those two wires don't seem to be connected at all

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Bottom pic is a bit blurry but the two little wires coming out of ctec are only about 4 inch long and go nowhere. I originally saw a thin red wire on the + terminal and thought that was it , I know realise that's the live ignition feed
 
Hmm so those wires should start off from the ctek bound together by the insulator plastic (must be a term for this) and then the red one should be extended to go somewhere where it gets a signal when the ignition is on. Surely it won't charge from the alternator without?

The black one, as we have discussed shouldn't be connected anywhere for a normal lead acid battery (but often gets connected to battery negative by mistake as mine was).
 
Looking at the state of those crimp connectors it might be an idea to remake those with a decent ratchet crimper and work your way through the wiring checking other connections.

That red cover also looks like it's got rather hot and melty by the terminals too?

Actually the red wire is just another selector wire not an ignition enable (despite this being the impression you'd get from the diagram in the manual) you just need it connected to any +12v source to select Smart Alternator behaviour in the charger.

If it's not connected then the charger will behave appropriately for standard alternators and may not charge well at all.
 
From the photos I’d advise getting a good auto electrician to evaluate your electrical installation. Some of the equipment like the battery clamp and the way it’s rigged doesn’t look very satisfactory. There is no electrocution risk with 12v DC but it’s very easy to create a fire.
Hard to believe that a professional converter did that.
 
At this point I'd second the advice from @DXX ideally find one with some camper experience as if that's the state of the 12v wiring I'd want to know the state of the 240v wiring as well.
 
Thanks for all your input guys. I think you've hit the nail on the head , that frayed wire going onto the positive terminal I believe has been shorting. Tidied it up and no drain overnight. I think the local garage when changing the battery over left that wire half in half out of the clamp. Would that cause a drain ?
 
Would that cause a drain ?
Only if it was touching the vehicle body, another metallic item grounded to vehicle body or a negative conductor. A frayed cable in itself won’t cause a short circuit.
 
Only if it was touching the vehicle body, another metallic item grounded to vehicle body or a negative conductor. A frayed cable in itself won’t cause a short circuit.
In addition if there is a direct short circuit you can expect some smoke and sparks! Important that 12v DC is fused as close as possible to the power source.
 
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