Wow, that's a great find. That looks like the clamp about 200mm back from the sensor connector, where it goes over the front subframe crossmember. Well found!!
So just to clarify, this is the g83 sensor? This is under any pressure? Ie should I unscrew the coolant bottle cap and expect some leakage when I remove this to replace it?
Thank you
yes, that is the G83 sensor
it's not under pressure but do it with the engine cold.
it will leak a considerable amount of coolant when you remove the sensor, so be prepared for that.
Morning All, I think I might be having the same issue here, I replaced the g83 sensor with an aftermarket Amazon special and it seemed to solve the problem for 3 weeks. Drove to the lakes yesterday and it’s now back fan permanently on! Does this sound like a cheap sensor issue and should be buy a dealer one or a wiring issue as described above? And as temporary fix for while I’m away does anyone know if I can pull a fuse on the fan? Thanks in advance
Mine was simply a cracked wire. Wish I never bought the replacement sensors lol
Could be either, based on the experiences here, it's the cabling not the sensor in each case. I wouldn't pull the fuse, you wouldn't want to be without fans. Let them run until you can get another proper look at it.
This could well be the issue as today it’s been fine ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ engine management light on but once cancelled it stayed off and no fan on.
Thanks If it comes back on I’ll let it run until back home
Update On G83 Sensor Issue:
1. Removed e-box cover, found T10g grey plug (Pin 3, Red wire) and checked circuit back to G83 Pin 1 - Open circuit. Double checked T10g Pin 3 back to J623 Pin 54 full continuity.
2. Checked continuity between J623 (Pin 15 Brown wire) and G83 Pin 2 - Open circuit!. Double checked to G71 full continuity.
Outcome: Both red wire from J623 and brown wires from J623 have open circuits, both require renewing (brown wire break will be post D121 splice)
Next Step:
1. Spliced new red wire from T10g plug (grey plug, red wire, Pin 3) in e-box, fed through bottom rubber grommet and zippy tied to harness to G83 sensor
2. Spliced opposite end of red wire onto Pin 1, red wire at G83 sensor
3. Spliced new brown wire from G71 sensor Pin 1 fed along bulk head, down the side of battery housing and zippy tied to mains harness feeding along to G83 Sensor
4. Spliced opposite end of brown wire onto Pin 2, brown wire at G83 sensor
Final Outcome: All working as it should , no fan on and no fault codes.
Tips if did it again:
1. Definitely remove headlight first, makes removing e-box cover a lot easier and gives more room to solder
2. Be careful when removing ecu metal clamping bracket, can easily lose screw. If you don’t need to test continuity back to the ecu you don’t need to remove it
3. T10g grey plug was easy to access and solder to in the ebox
Finally want to say thanks for all the information on this thread, massive help and was easy to follow and adapt for my scenario. Cheers
1. Removed e-box cover, found T10g grey plug (Pin 3, Red wire) and checked circuit back to G83 Pin 1 - Open circuit. Double checked T10g Pin 3 back to J623 Pin 54 full continuity.
2. Checked continuity between J623 (Pin 15 Brown wire) and G83 Pin 2 - Open circuit!. Double checked to G71 full continuity.
Outcome: Both red wire from J623 and brown wires from J623 have open circuits, both require renewing (brown wire break will be post D121 splice)
Next Step:
1. Spliced new red wire from T10g plug (grey plug, red wire, Pin 3) in e-box, fed through bottom rubber grommet and zippy tied to harness to G83 sensor
2. Spliced opposite end of red wire onto Pin 1, red wire at G83 sensor
3. Spliced new brown wire from G71 sensor Pin 1 fed along bulk head, down the side of battery housing and zippy tied to mains harness feeding along to G83 Sensor
4. Spliced opposite end of brown wire onto Pin 2, brown wire at G83 sensor
Final Outcome: All working as it should , no fan on and no fault codes.
Tips if did it again:
1. Definitely remove headlight first, makes removing e-box cover a lot easier and gives more room to solder
2. Be careful when removing ecu metal clamping bracket, can easily lose screw. If you don’t need to test continuity back to the ecu you don’t need to remove it
3. T10g grey plug was easy to access and solder to in the ebox
Finally want to say thanks for all the information on this thread, massive help and was easy to follow and adapt for my scenario. Cheers
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