Erberspacher diesel heater

[Green Giant]

I had the basic remote control and the only advantage to it IMHO was that you could leave it permanently switched on: great in the Alps. I have the 701 which is great but overly complicated to programme. In reality I just use the 8 hour facility rather than the 3 timed programs. Because of the 5 minutes warm ups and cooldown I’ve never been able to set the 3 timers to work consecutively. I have to leave 15 minutes between each programmed time to get it to work consistently. If you don’t it seems to override and not switch on for the follow on program.

This is the controller I have fitted, it’s too tiny, with a tiny display. I’m hoping the remote can be used to turn heater on and turn it off, so I don’t have to use the fitted controller. Have been using the heater during the recent cold spell to help defrost van, I leave home in the morning at various times so the timer is not really useable, van is outside on the drive so will hopefully save me opening van and using the fitted controller.

 

[Lukavell]

I've just brought my boys to play football. My daughter got cold and wet in the first half so we're sat in the van with the heater on. In all honesty, I've not used it for a couple of years, even started it. Woops. It took a few attempts to start and keep going but it's blasting hot air out now and the van is a comfortable 20°C! Very smokey and smelly on start up but burning nice and clean now. The fan hasn't stopped, but I've set the temperature 30°C as we got so wet!

Oh, and here's my controller. Pretty straightforward to use. In hindsight, I ought really to have put it at back of the van somewhere. As that's the end I sleep at.

 

[Mick]

TBH that look like a great fit. Neat and accessible. Mine is in the back and getting out of bed to switch it on is a pain when I forget the timer.
Did it last week in -5c . set the time to 6 hours slept for 7

 

[Grainfoot]

Timer Never knew you could get them. I want one now

 

[Eclipse Custom Vans]

Switch it on and run it full blast for a while (20 mins or more) if it settles down and runs slower than the initial boost speed and doesn't smoke it's good to go.

A D4 will roast you, it's overkill for a T6, a D2 is more than adequate.

Do this. Only service when something goes wrong typically. Just give it a blow out. if the fan is siezed or a nother problem, then think of servicing it

 

[Garyf123]

I have just tried my D2 and it came up with H1 service. Guess I will be searching for the fault codes tomorrow. I am hoping I might have just selected something wrong as I have only tried it once and it worked fine. When fault appeared, I was parked in a sloping lay-by and Lowish fuel level. I have now filled it up and tried it again but switches off with H1 service fault after a few seconds. Any ideas?

Gary.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

shows you how to read the error codes when you get the H1 service message.

 

[Mick]

Don’t know anything about these but £300 seems a lot of money for servicing one of these units, did you have any parts replaced?

Just seen this. They ahd to remove it, to clean it out, the glow plug was shot (£86 for the part) and then they re fitted it. Took them about an hour. Standard price I’m afraid.

 

[Garyf123]

shows you how to read the error codes when you get the H1 service message.

Thanks for that. I had a look today, did as video said, found a few codes, cleared them all then tried starting again. Same thing, tried to start then went to h1 service again. Read codes, only one this time - P000223 which i believe is blocked, stuck or jammed impellor. I took the cover off from the back of the drivers seat base expecting to find/fix heater. Oh no, its just the ducting! Apparently the heater is under the body hidden by all the plastic covers. Happy days!

 

[Mick]

Ok

Thanks for that. I had a look today, did as video said, found a few codes, cleared them all then tried starting again. Same thing, tried to start then went to h1 service again. Read codes, only one this time - P000223 which i believe is blocked, stuck or jammed impellor. I took the cover off from the back of the drivers seat base expecting to find/fix heater. Oh no, its just the ducting! Apparently the heater is under the body hidden by all the plastic covers. Happy days!

I’ve been there. It’s about 6-8 screws to get the cover off. If your installer fitted a jubilee clip to the outside to keep the 2 parts tight together he shouldn’t have done. That is a common problem of the impeller sticking.

The round body is supposed to be free where they come together. When mine was serviced above the guy told me about it cos mine had that clip and it was a common issue.

One of the mist common causes of warranty rejections.

 

[Garyf123]

Ok

I’ve been there. It’s about 6-8 screws to get the cover off. If your installer fitted a jubilee clip to the outside to keep the 2 parts tight together he shouldn’t have done. That is a common problem of the impeller sticking.

The round body is supposed to be free where they come together. When mine was serviced above the guy told me about it cos mine had that clip and it was a common issue.

One of the mist common causes of warranty rejections.

Thanks, i will look out for that!

 

[Garyf123]

Hi,

Well i finally got van in air, removed the plastic under tray and tool off the hoses from either side. One side had a visible impeller which was completely free. The other side just looked like an aluminium casting, no sign of an impeller. Started heater up again, ran for a couple of minutes, shut down with service H1 message again. Read codes, P000223 which is blocked or jammed impeller! Checked impeller again, totally free, wiped fault codes, started it up again, ran for a minute or so and same sequence again. Has anybody got any ideas please?

Gary.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Check that the intake ducting is clear and not crushed. Also check that a numpty has not used a closeable vent on the intake or outlet duct.

 

[rod_vw]

Check that the intake ducting is clear and not crushed. Also check that a numpty has not used a closeable vent on the intake or outlet duct.

Or the combustion side inlet / exhaust is blocked.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

^^^^ That shouldn't throw up an impeller error, that should give a combustion error. A blockage there would not affect the rotational speed only the combustion process. The error will be thrown up by the incorrect rotational speed and it takes near on a complete heating air blockage to stop/slow the impeller.
Of course you could have a faulty unit from new.

 

[oldiebut goodie]

When you ran the heater after checking the impeller was that with the ducting attached at both ends or not?

 

[rod_vw]

^^^^ That shouldn't throw up an impeller error, that should give a combustion error. A blockage there would not affect the rotational speed only the combustion process. The error will be thrown up by the incorrect rotational speed and it takes near on a complete heating air blockage to stop/slow the impeller.
Of course you could have a faulty unit from new.

My apologies you have more knowledge than me.

 

[Garyf123]

When you ran the heater after checking the impeller was that with the ducting attached at both ends or not?

It was with the ducting on the fan side off. My intention was to start the heater and quickly get underneath and see if the impeller was spinning. It was, but seemed intermittent and didn’t spin for very long. I purchased the van last September and only attempted to use the heater once last year to see if it worked. It did. Nothing significant to my knowledge has happened to account for it not working now

 

[oldiebut goodie]

Not inlet ducting then and I would expect it to run for a bit longer if the outlet were blocked as it would take a couple of minutes for it to sense the pressure buildup.

Check the voltage as close to the heater as possible whilst it is trying to start.
If voltage is high enough - 12.5v or so:

Check that the wiring to the motor, has the plug been pushed fully home in the ecu? It is not unknown for plugs to have worked loose in transit and give intermittent contact - this is possible if you think that the rotation is more pulsing rather than smooth.

 

[Garyf123]

Not inlet ducting then and I would expect it to run for a bit longer if the outlet were blocked as it would take a couple of minutes for it to sense the pressure buildup.

Check the voltage as close to the heater as possible whilst it is trying to start.
If voltage is high enough - 12.5v or so:

Check that the wiring to the motor, has the plug been pushed fully home in the ecu? It is not unknown for plugs to have worked loose in transit and give intermittent contact - this is possible if you think that the rotation is more pulsing rather than smooth.

Thanks for this advice, just to clarify, i am fine with a multimeter but which connections am i checking? I did wonder about the big multiplug in the loom, i will check this is ok. Are you meaning where the loom connects to the actual heater?