Hi. very good write up on this installation. I've had an Eberspacher in my t4 for about 7years and its never failed. I've now got a t6 and have taken the Eberspacher out to put in the new van. In the t4 it was mounted inside under the drivers seat, nice and protected, but I'm thinking not the t6 I'll mount it externally. Do any of the plastic trays/covers go over the location you have installed in underneath? I've seen as well you can get stainless boxes for them to be mounted in externally. What do you think, now a year or so on, has it got covered in muck etc?
Fitting Eberspacher D2 - My Experience
- Thread starter Jack T
- Start date
I’m fairly certain the underbody plastic covers protect it. Is your T6 a EU5 or EU6 engine?
Yes definitely covered by a plastic panel. I’ve not had reason to look at it but I would presume it will be clean enough as it’s pretty enclosed. Mine was a EU6 panel van originally if it makes a difference.
I would fit another without hesitation, very pleased with it.
I would fit another without hesitation, very pleased with it.
Nice write up.
A couple of pointers for anybody looking to fit their own.
You should really fit the stand pipe into the fuel sender unit (not directly into the fuel tank skin), Its best to wire the heater directly to the leisure battery and not through a fuse distribution board and the exhaust should have a 2mm hole drilled in it at the lowest point to allow condensation build up to drain out of.
A couple of pointers for anybody looking to fit their own.
You should really fit the stand pipe into the fuel sender unit (not directly into the fuel tank skin), Its best to wire the heater directly to the leisure battery and not through a fuse distribution board and the exhaust should have a 2mm hole drilled in it at the lowest point to allow condensation build up to drain out of.
There are plus and minus points for using the sender unit, + no swarf in tank using the sender and line fits in tank contours provided correctly, - having to swap over if new sender unit is installed. No right or wrong position actually.
The units that I sell have lugs put on the power cables and I tell people to go direct to the battery but several that I have had back for overhaul have had them cut off and they have used distribution points, no good for voltage drop with several connections and long runs. Every volt is needed! Ideally the exhaust should have a continuous downward slope anyway - people don't read the manual!
The units that I sell have lugs put on the power cables and I tell people to go direct to the battery but several that I have had back for overhaul have had them cut off and they have used distribution points, no good for voltage drop with several connections and long runs. Every volt is needed! Ideally the exhaust should have a continuous downward slope anyway - people don't read the manual!
All good points made, exhaust is going to get adjusted over the winter when the undertrays are coming off for other jobs. oldiebut goodie already pointed this out previously so thanks for the tip.
Pickup pipe was the one provided with the kit which didn’t look suitable for sender plate install. That would have been my first choice but had it work with what I had on the day.
I know what you are saying about volt drop but I significantly shortened the cable run as my fuse box is on top of the heater position. The fuse box is also supplied with pretty hefty cables so it has never been an issue. I would have adjusted it if it hadn’t worked but preferred for it to be protected from the central point.
The above may prove to be a mistake when my leisure batteries are running low when off grid but so far so good.
Hopefully if some aspects of the write up are useful to other people then all good. Nice to try and help others after getting so much info from searching through the forum myself.
Pickup pipe was the one provided with the kit which didn’t look suitable for sender plate install. That would have been my first choice but had it work with what I had on the day.
I know what you are saying about volt drop but I significantly shortened the cable run as my fuse box is on top of the heater position. The fuse box is also supplied with pretty hefty cables so it has never been an issue. I would have adjusted it if it hadn’t worked but preferred for it to be protected from the central point.
The above may prove to be a mistake when my leisure batteries are running low when off grid but so far so good.
Hopefully if some aspects of the write up are useful to other people then all good. Nice to try and help others after getting so much info from searching through the forum myself.
It can be advantageous to use a separate LVD (low voltage disconnect) when using a Webasto as although the heater will switch off on low voltage state this is factory set at 10.5v for more than 20 seconds by which time your battery is as flat as the proverbial. I am surprised that this has not been upped to something more reasonable like 11.5v as most heaters are run using battery power mainly.
We fit low voltage cutouts between our battery and distribution fuse board set to 11.4v to prevent our customers damaging their leosure battery. The fact that the LVC on the heater is set to 10.5v is no bad thing in my opinion as if your lights etc cutout at 11pm in an aire in a ski resort like lesmenuires you would know your battery is pretty flat but would have an option to run the heater until morning.
All good points made, exhaust is going to get adjusted over the winter when the undertrays are coming off for other jobs. oldiebut goodie already pointed this out previously so thanks for the tip.
Pickup pipe was the one provided with the kit which didn’t look suitable for sender plate install. That would have been my first choice but had it work with what I had on the day.
I know what you are saying about volt drop but I significantly shortened the cable run as my fuse box is on top of the heater position. The fuse box is also supplied with pretty hefty cables so it has never been an issue. I would have adjusted it if it hadn’t worked but preferred for it to be protected from the central point.
The above may prove to be a mistake when my leisure batteries are running low when off grid but so far so good.
Hopefully if some aspects of the write up are useful to other people then all good. Nice to try and help others after getting so much info from searching through the forum myself.
I believe part of wiring direct to the battery is to avoid flickering lights in ghe van when the pump is cycling.
Hi, does anyone have a Leisure Battery fitted under the drivers seat and bring their hot air feed up in this location? ie, can you fit a leisure battery and DC-DC charger etc under the seat if you have a hot air duct routed there as well? If not, where else has anyone brought their hot air feed up into the van please?
Mine's a 17plate EU6, there is a tonne of plastic panelling under there!
I’ve got a 110ah battery and a CTEK 250SA under the driver’s seat and the heater duct pops up through the floor just behind the seat, in the little gap to the side of the ‘fridge.
My Propex outlet comes up through the floor underneath the drivers seat and exits via the ba of the seat. I’ve got a 110Ah battery in there too, but my Ring RSCDC30 wouldn’t fit.
A smaller DC-DC charger probably would.
Just for reference this picture of mine is a Jennings lowered seat base so may make it look tighter. No chance of batteries in these but worth the compromise with the better seating position.
I have my mains charger that side then then Ring dc30 and heated seat gubbins under the passenger side. I have a twin leisure battery setup in my units at the rear.
I have my mains charger that side then then Ring dc30 and heated seat gubbins under the passenger side. I have a twin leisure battery setup in my units at the rear.
Can anyone please tell me the fuse ratings that should be used by the Eberspacher?
I can see 2 are needed, 1 for the controller and one for the heater itself. However I have 3 fuses, a 5A, 15A and 25A.
I'm pretty confident that the 5A is for the controller but not sure about the other one. TIA
I can see 2 are needed, 1 for the controller and one for the heater itself. However I have 3 fuses, a 5A, 15A and 25A.
I'm pretty confident that the 5A is for the controller but not sure about the other one. TIA
Which Eberspacher? - D2/D4 Airtronic is 5A and 20A for 12v heater.
H00dedclaw
New Member
well done indeed .... i have a t6 2016 converted for previous owner, recently the d2 i had wouldn't kick in so i took to a specialist listed on the eberpacher web site thinking 3 years old might need a service ..after all its a boiler ! turns out after dropping my FULL fuel tank the white coloured fuel lead your showing in the thread had perished in 3 or 4 places, he said its not a proper eberspacher one and showed me a far thicker black OE one and proceeded to fit it,,, all toasty again now and problem solved... the way to tell if like me you dont have a control unit which shows fault codes (EasyStart) is that you hear clicking which is the fuel pump for the heater it then cycles twice and only shows an error.. when it has fuel you shouldnt hear the fuel pump at all only the fan doing the inital clear out dust blow and then priming for the glow plug start.
the white coloured fuel lead your showing in the thread had perished in 3 or 4 places, he said its not a proper eberspacher one and showed me a far thicker black OE one and proceeded to fit it,,, all toasty again now and problem solved... the way to tell if like me you dont have a control unit which shows fault codes (EasyStart) is that you hear clicking which is the fuel pump for the heater it then cycles twice and only shows an error.. when it has fuel you shouldnt hear the fuel pump at all only the fan doing the inital clear out dust blow and then priming for the glow plug start.
Its an S2
Edit: I think its called a ~D2L sometimes as well. Strange it needs a 20A and came with 15 and 25
Haven't any manuals for that one - as I don't touch Eberspachers I haven't kept up with their latest offering.
Just downloaded the manual for it: ( 20A the same)
5.2 Parts list for the Airtronic S2 and Airtronic M2
circuit diagrams
-A1 Airtronic Ax2 control box
-A30 Fuse holder, 3 pin
-B1 Air inlet sensor, internal (LEF1)
-B6 Flame and air outlet sensor
-R1 Terminating resistor I
-R2 Terminating resistor II
-R3 Terminating resistor, stub line
-F1 Heater fuse: 12 V = 20 A / 24 V = 10 A
-HG Heater
-R1 Glow plug
-M4 Burner motor
-Y1 Fuel metering pump
-p Switch output, see on page 26
-XB6/1 EasyScan bush housing
-XS6/1 Mating connector with terminating resistor
-XB6/4 Bush housing, EasyStart Pro
d to the ADR acknowledgement button, see on page 26
n Generator input D+
o Secondary drive input N A+
Just downloaded the manual for it: ( 20A the same)
5.2 Parts list for the Airtronic S2 and Airtronic M2
circuit diagrams
-A1 Airtronic Ax2 control box
-A30 Fuse holder, 3 pin
-B1 Air inlet sensor, internal (LEF1)
-B6 Flame and air outlet sensor
-R1 Terminating resistor I
-R2 Terminating resistor II
-R3 Terminating resistor, stub line
-F1 Heater fuse: 12 V = 20 A / 24 V = 10 A
-HG Heater
-R1 Glow plug
-M4 Burner motor
-Y1 Fuel metering pump
-p Switch output, see on page 26
-XB6/1 EasyScan bush housing
-XS6/1 Mating connector with terminating resistor
-XB6/4 Bush housing, EasyStart Pro
d to the ADR acknowledgement button, see on page 26
n Generator input D+
o Secondary drive input N A+
Thanks, what page is that, I cant find that info in my manual :/
