Fitting Eberspacher D2 - My Experience

Thanks @oldiebut goodie that's very useful, an installer who should know what he is talking about has told me they only fit 'T' connections to the T6 and that there is no need to drill into the fuel sender unit or drop the tank.
I am a little confused as my EU5 doesn't have Aux Heater fuel supply as referenced in the Webasto manual where they use the 'T' connection.
There is a Planar/Autoterm on the way for my van (good deal including mobile SIM unit) I know you are a Webasto man but the cost was outside my budget. And as the installer is dropping the tank anyway I thought to ask him to fit the standpipe which is when he told me about the 'T'.
I wonder if there is a risk of running out of fuel on the 'T' connection as the stand pipe is installed short of the bottom of the tank?
 
The only place that they could use a Tee is on the return line - it shouldn't go on the engine feed as this is pressurized. Provided the return goes to low down in the tank there is no problem with this - I haven't looked at a T6 pump unit to see how far down the outlet is though.
Webasto make no mention of using a tee piece on anything other than a factory fitted heater fuel line in the installation manual and I would have thought that they would have mentioned it if you could do away with the standpipe.
I would rather run out of fuel for the heater than the van so whichever method is used you want it this way.
 
A few things are worrying me about the return pipe plan.
1. Better be sure to cut the right pipe!!
2. Running out of fuel if it continues to pull diesel from the tank until its empty.
3. The opposite of 2. how far down the tank does the return pipe go and will the heater stop working at 1/2 full?

If anyone has more info sure @Wills and I would be very grateful
 
Gents a little bit of advice please, I have fitted a new eberspacher D2L Yesterday under the drivers side put all the ducting in and dropped the tank and fitted the standpipe in and run the blue fuel line forward of the tank in the clips as mentioned at the start of this post. As all of my inside is complete I am running the wiring in copex fixed to the underside of the van to my leasure battery in the rear. The problem I have got is the fuel pump wires with the connector is not long enough to reach over the top of the heat shield to the pump is this a known issue will I have to extend the wires or move the pump from the front of the adblue tank to some where nearer the front or rear of the heater on the offside, will extending the wire cause any issues with resistance.
Thanks for any advice
 
The pump will suck 5m and push 6m - just site the pump closer to the heater. Why site the pump that far away? You will be hard pushed to exceed those limits on a T6.
 
Cheers for the prompt reply, I was just following the manufactures process and photos from there booklet and locations, but as per your comment I'll move the pump nearer. Thank you again
 
Hi all.

just fitted my D2 over the last few days. Very useful thread. I found it hard going as this is the first time I have done anything like this. I’ll second having to remove the adblue filer pipes to drop the tank filler properly.

It also took 5 attempts to start. I kept getting the fuel feed error message, just disconnected the fuel line from the heater unit then ran through a couple of start cycles with the fuel line in a small cup. Eventually fuel came through so I reconnected and it worked.

I have a question. Has anyone experienced a plastic burning smell from the pump area? I can’t see where it’s coming from and the heater seems to work fine. Any ideas?

Cheers
 
It is easier to prime the fuel line before you connect it to the heater, saves a lot of stop/starting
You should not have a burning smell anywhere - you may get some initial smell from the exhaust as the lubricant used during manufacture is burnt off but that soon disperses.
Where have you mounted the pump in relation to exhausts? Also have you run the fuel line close to the exhausts?
 
Hi

Thanks for that, I have mounted the pump just in front of the Addblue tank as per the Erbespacher installation manual.

I have also checked all of the fuel lines and electrical cables, nothing is touching a heat source. It’s definitely coming from around the pump area.

I am wondering if it is the pump itself, the more I think about it, it could be an electrical burning smell but it’s not obviously that.

How critical is the angle that it has to be mounted (15-35 deg)?

cheers
 
A lot of pumps have to be mounted at an angle - it has to do with being able to pass any air through. If the pump is full of air it could overheat but as your heater is running it will not overheat as they are cooled by the fluid moving through them. I tested one to destruction by running it constantly without fluids - it got very hot and seized up, this was extreme testing though.
 
Well today I learnt something new before I even got out of bed. :)
Webasto are now offering a kit for fitting to adblue T6's that does not require dropping the fuel tank. Not used one yet but expecting a delivery of about a dozen of them today so I will be interested to see how the install goes.

Do you have any feed back on these fitting kits or a link to them please) I'm installing my heater next week and it would make life easier if I didn't have to drop the tank..
 
Do you have any feed back on these fitting kits or a link to them please) I'm installing my heater next week and it would make life easier if I didn't have to drop the tank..

Ignore the above, I went with the stand pipe solution, however something is nagging away at me..

When i installed the standpipe it seemed a tight against the side of the unit at the bottom (the white bit which appears to be spring loaded), I guess I must have been a couple of mm out when I drilled the hole for the stand pipe, will this potentially cause any problems ?

Does this part move in normal operation of the van?
 
Most vehicles pumps are "spring loaded" -when you insert them into the tank it allows them to be in contact with the bottom of the tank, once in position there shouldn't be much movement up and down but I think that there must be some as the tank flexes, in the order of 1-2mm . I cannot see any reason that it would impede that movement - there is plenty of lubricant and not much force there.
 
Does this part of the bracket fit into the premade slot in the chassis or enables the bracket to stand off from the chassis with a gap? I think the latter looking at the pics in this thread

bracket1a.jpg
 
That part of the bracket just rests on the rail to provide stability from memory. The chassis rail has a slight curve to it so this holds it off and stops the bracket twisting. :thumbsup:
 
Hi, I fitted my heater about a month ago, the tab that you have circled fitted into the slot in the chassis rail, needed a bit of gentle persuading with a mallet, and the bolt holes lined up perfectly with the rivnuts.
Hope that helps.
 
Is it me or are the D2L installation instructions a bit thin, contradictory and confusing?
I’m currently fitting the wiring and need help.
The Easystart Pro wiring diagram and the Ebers supplied harness don’t match. The XS1 4 wire block connector is premade and matches the diagram. The XS2 3 wire connector needs making up. The diagram shows 1 - BN/WH, 2 - GY/BK & 3 - GY. The controller pre made connector is correct but the harness has a 5 wire option of BN/WH, YE, RD, GY/RD & BU/WH.Any help appreciated.

D1CAA1C5-63EC-46AB-8B7D-CBBCB3A78FF8.jpeg
 
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