Front doors sound deadening

[Gavinsky23]

I’ve got the tailgate trim off at the moment and noticed there is no insulation or deadening in there. If it isn’t for sound I.e near speakers, is there any benefit in the foil type stuff or as well just using the foam on its own?

will look to do the doors when I get a bit of time as I’m assuming they won’t be done either

 

[The Bear78]

Any large open area will benefit from silent coat or other similar deadening materials. The tailgate however is full of creases and contours so is unlikely to be too affected by resonance but if you he some spare it wouldn't hurt on the larger sections.
Certainly some foam will help but adding too much weight will require uprated gas struts.

 

[Gavinsky23]

Any large open area will benefit from silent coat or other similar deadening materials. The tailgate however is full of creases and contours so is unlikely to be too affected by resonance but if you he some spare it wouldn't hurt on the larger sections.
Certainly some foam will help but adding too much weight will require uprated gas struts.

Great thanks. Had read about potential issues with the extra weight. Was just looking at some of the 10mm foam so hopefully not too heavy. Just about to put a diesel heater in so thought anything will hopefully help keep some heat in. I thought the whole van had been done

 

[Texxaco]

Great thanks. Had read about potential issues with the extra weight. Was just looking at some of the 10mm foam so hopefully not too heavy. Just about to put a diesel heater in so thought anything will hopefully help keep some heat in. I thought the whole van had been done ☹

I was thinking the same until I had a water leak in the tailgate, my doing. Took the panel off and insulation is there by the boat load but no sound deadening. I will be adding it where I can get too as it certainly won’t do any harm. Then update the gas struts to 985 versions.

 

[Gavinsky23]

I was thinking the same until I had a water leak in the tailgate, my doing. Took the panel off and insulation is there by the boat load but no sound deadening. I will be adding it where I can get too as it certainly won’t do any harm. Then update the gas struts to 985 versions.

Cheers, I take it that was the fleece stuff then? Any idea of the advantage of fleece v foam? I think if I am going to do the doors too it would make sense to get foam as that would do both.

 

[Texxaco]

Cheers, I take it that was the fleece stuff then? Any idea of the advantage of fleece v foam? I think if I am going to do the doors too it would make sense to get foam as that would do both.

Yes that’s what I have , she’s loads of ifoam is more for sound deadening, the fleece is for insulation.
There will be others who will be able to offer more knowledge on this matter though.

Yes that’s what I have , she’s loads of it.

The doors are a chalenge, leave yourself a lot of time and a boat load of patience. Search @andys and door sound deadening.

 

[DXX]

I’ve got fleece in my tailgate, done by a reputable converter. It’s still cold in the winter so don’t go light on insulation if you are going to sleep with your head next to it.
I’ve got a 30mm thick removable foam cushion that I use to kill wind noise in the Reimo roof opening, at night this gets put between the tailgate and pillows and make a great additional insulator.

 

[Stay Frosty]

I think I would probably skip on putting foam inside the door interior bearing in mind the amount of rainwater that flows through there normally and save the foam for the door card where it's bone dry and will be just as effective.
The various butyl sheet sound deadeners are mass loading the panels and lowering the panels resonant frequency reducing mid band drone to a rumble, slightly off topic but over the years I've noticed that sound deadening never seems to make the vehicle sound system effectively louder minus this background noise but then I've read that the ear can only detect a doubling of volume at about a 10dB increase in sound pressure level.

 

[Texxaco]

I think I would probably skip on putting foam inside the door interior bearing in mind the amount of rainwater that flows through there normally and save the foam for the door card where it's bone dry and will be just as effective.
The various butyl sheet sound deadeners are mass loading the panels and lowering the panels resonant frequency reducing mid band drone to a rumble, slightly off topic but over the years I've noticed that sound deadening never seems to make the vehicle sound system effectively louder minus this background noise but then I've read that the ear can only detect a doubling of volume at about a 10dB increase in sound pressure level.

Loving your avatar @Stay Frosty

 

[Stay Frosty]

That'll be a Banksy.
I'm an optimistic pessimist, I hope for the best...

 

[Texxaco]

That'll be a Banksy.
I'm an optimistic pessimist, I hope for the best...

Right now I think we all hoping for the best.

 

[racT6bus]

Got a quote from a my local independent car audio specialist (they are doing some other work for me, they are good) and they want roughly £400/£450 to do the front doors (inc. labour and all parts) - seems pretty pricey, but I guess most of that is in the labour as it doesn't sound like a quick job. Given all the instructional info on here and material recommendations, I am thinking of just doing it myself.

Question - has anyone had any issues getting the door card back on after applying the sound deadening? I fitted the Alpine speaker kit a while ago (yes I should have done this then!) and noticed it was a pretty tight fit near the centre of the door

 

[Texxaco]

Got a quote from a my local independent car audio specialist (they are doing some other work for me, they are good) and they want roughly £400/£450 to do the front doors (inc. labour and all parts) - seems pretty pricey, but I guess most of that is in the labour as it doesn't sound like a quick job. Given all the instructional info on here and material recommendations, I am thinking of just doing it myself.

Question - has anyone had any issues getting the door card back on after applying the sound deadening? I fitted the Alpine speaker kit a while ago (yes I should have done this then!) and noticed it was a pretty tight fit near the centre of the door

Jump on YouTube and watch the vids of the door cards being refitted. They are tight but not tight that they difficult

 

[racT6bus]

Jump on YouTube and watch the vids of the door cards being refitted. They are tight but not tight that they difficult

Thanks, I have done just that As we finally had some sunshine yesterday I spent a few hours doing the outer panels, inner panels and door cards using the Silent Coat 2mm mat, noise isolator and the sound absorber. Put new clips on the door cards and they went back on fine. Makes a huge difference to the quality of sound from the door speakers and reducing road noise. The doors also sound better on closing. Whilst it does take a while to do, it was also much easier than I thought it would be. Thanks for all the advice and guidance on here.

 

[Scruffy]

I don't know if this has been asked before but has anyone fitted insulation to the front doors of a T6.1? I had some new speakers fitted last year and the fitter said there wasn't much space for any but does the "collective" think?

 

[DXX]

I don't know if this has been asked before but has anyone fitted insulation to the front doors of a T6.1? I had some new speakers fitted last year and the fitter said there wasn't much space for any but does the "collective" think?

The window seals will allow water to pass so any insulation will hold the water or it will take longer to drain through.
When I sound deadened my doors some time ago converters were advising against anything that could foul the window regulator.

 

[Scruffy]

Thanks @DXX , was this on a T6 or 6.1? Also I’m thinking of the door card side not the actual door skin. I wasn’t aware the water would run down the door card side.

 

[DXX]

Thanks @DXX , was this on a T6 or 6.1? Also I’m thinking of the door card side not the actual door skin. I wasn’t aware the water would run down the door card side.

T6.
Water will run down between the door skin and the outer face of the window regulator panel.
Door skin is covered in a preserving waxoil.
I removed the speaker and put a large strip of Dynomat on the door skin.
Covered the inner face of the window regulator panel with Dynomat.
Covered the door card with 10mm self adhesive foam.

 

[Pauly]

I don't know if this has been asked before but has anyone fitted insulation to the front doors of a T6.1? I had some new speakers fitted last year and the fitter said there wasn't much space for any but does the "collective" think?

I have just done mine by removing the inner panel to get top the outer skin, a lot easier than i thought and plenty of clearance in there from the moving parts

 

[Scruffy]

Has anyone had any experience with a T6.1?