[Guide] Clayton LPS II 2500 - 1kWh (leisure battery + Inverter) -- How I Done It --

[Dellmassive]

[Guide] Clayton LPS II 2500 - 1kWh (leisure battery + Inverter) -- How I Done It -- (@Dellmassive)

its finally happened,

I've dipped my toes into the dark side of 12v leisure electrics.



The Clayton LPS II - the All In One ( 12v lifepo4 battery, dc-dc charger, 240v inverter, solar MPPT, + more)


+++

i have the 2500w (inverter) 1kWh (100ah lifepo4 battery) version. ie LPSII2500-1kwh

+++



+++







now this is going to be an interesting thread. . . and ill bring you along with me.


the original plan for the "BUS" - our other T6 van/camper was to fir out the standard leisure electrics.


but when this unit popped up for sale i had to give it a go.


weve already been testing and playing about with it . .

im happy to say it runs the coffee machine fine. . .






and had no issues running the Doris`s mega 2200w hair dryer, so thats two requirements ticked off.









lets take a look at the spec. . . .

LPS II 2500 - 1 kWh | 230V & 12V Lithium Power Supply - Clayton Power

www.claytonpower.com

Specifications​

SKU No.	CL2002
Battery type	Li-Ion 12V – 100Ah
Battery chemistry	LiFePO4
Battery capacity	100Ah (1320Wh)
Battery available capacity	80Ah (1050Wh)
AC Input voltage	207 VAC – 253 VAC
AC input frequency	45 Hz – 65 Hz
AC Input power (Charge power)	720 W
AC Output voltage +- 10%	230 VAC pure sine wave
AC Output frequency	50 Hz
AC output power – Continuously (ambient temp)	2300 W
AC output power - 10 min.	2500 W
AC output power - Peak	4000 W
AC output power - AC In connected	3000 W
AC output efficiency (1000W)	94%
DC Input voltage	11,5 - 32 VDC
DC input current	45 A
DC input current with 1 external converter (efficiency)	90 A
DC output voltage	10-14,4 VDC
DC output charge current – Continuously	90A
DC output discharge current – Continuously	180A
DC output discharge current – 1 min.	270A
Solar input charging power (max.)	400W
Solar input voltage	15 – 50 VDC
Solar input charging current (max.)	15 A
Input signals (5)	C1, C2, M12 x 3
Output signals (4)	C2 & M12 x 3
Self-discharge rate per month	< 5%
Self consumption - Operating mode, Only DC Output active	< 1 W
Self consumption - Operating mode, inverter and DC Output in with > 50W	30 W
Connection 230VAC	Neutrik and Schuko
Connection C1 / C2	M4
Connection DC input	M8
Connection DC output	M8
Cooling	Forced air (fan)
Operating temperature (output will be limited below 0°C and ab)	-20°C~50°C
IP rating	IP21
Product weight	23,5 kg
Product dimensions (HxWxL)	256x277x409mm
Jumpstart	40 A / 5 min

+


this is what CLAYTON say:






+++

230 V/50 Hz output​

Peak: 4000 W
Power: 2500 W

12 V output​

60 Seconds: 270 A
Continously: 180 A

Built-in Li-Ion Battery​

Efficient energy: 1 kWh
Capacity: 1320 Wh (100 Ah)

Charging​

Alternator: 500 W / SC: 1000 W
Solar panels: 400 W
Mains: 750 W


+++





.









.

Nice. . .

 

[Dellmassive]

what is it?

well its lifepo4 battery, - 100ah
its a powerfull 240v inverter - 2500w
its a powerfull dc-dc charger - 720w / 45A
its a solar mppt charger - 400w 15 – 50 VDC
its a powerful 12v leisure source - 180A
its a powerful EHU charger - 720w
a starter battery jump starter.

and all that is squeezed into the one box.

you can see the attraction. . .


this is why these units have traditional been fitted in commercial vans and lorries,

for example British Gas vans, Ambulances and Fire Trucks.

and even our trust VWCW Assist vans. . .

yep - even the AA and VW use them.


check this out when i had VW Assist out to the BUS the other day for a front EGR pipe. . .


this is the remote to turn the box on/off/jumpstart. - Nice

..






++

so you get all of this. . . .


in this . . .





.

 

[Dellmassive]

So whats the catch?

well, they are not cheap.

well some people will tell you that the price is comparable to a fully installed victron setup - maybe?

the other thing is the size. . .

they are just too big to fit in a seat base. . .

IP rating	IP21
Product weight	23,5 kg
Product dimensions (HxWxL)	256x277x409mm

...


that means that in a T6 - you need to find somewhere to place them.


the VW Assist guy had his bolted down in the rear racking. . .

ultimatly ill have this built into the rear cupbards when i get the bus converted,

or

fitted under the RIB/rock n role seats in the rear. . . .


in the mean time ill have to get this setup as a mobile unit that can fitted and removed as required.

after a bit of testing we found the perfect box to install it in.





....

 

[Matt-T68]

Must admit I did look at these but the cost compared to the parts I already had (lithium battery, etc) I went the easy route. I have no doubts if I was having a rethink this would be high up the list of wants but it is a big unit so would have to think out the layout again. But love the idea of the all in one nature if it. I will be following with interest.

 

[Dellmassive]

Charging . . . .

we started with the 240c mains charging. . .

it comes with the mains lead and the fancy locking plug. .

notice how the plugs are recessed into the unit so it be pushed back to a wall flat - a very nice design touch . . .





switching the mains on you get a full rate charge, about 700-800w into the unit . .



that was verified with a Watt meter . . .




ok cool, now what about the 12v IN - thats what im interested in. . .

+++

"CHARGING FROM ALTERNATORConnect D+ for key wakeupOn most cars and vans it is possible to connect theengine starter to the D+ connector, which is usuallyfound underneath the dashboard.*Check the specification for your car, to see how toconnect the LPS II to D+.Connecting alternatorPositive: When connecting the Positive wire make sureto use a Mega Fuse Box (60A) between the LPS and thebattery.Negative: It is important to run the Negative cordthrough a ground point such as a lashing eye in a carand not directly between the LPS and the battery.Attention: When connecting the 12VDC to the LPS unit,make sure to use the correct cable size and tighten thecable shoes carefully. Failure to do so, can result in badconnections and overheating.Please see the CONNECTION REQUIREMENTS at thetop."

+++





so making up a quick fused 50A Anderson connector.,





and grabbing one of my 100ah lifepo4 battery boxes - that has 50A Anderson IN/OUT fitted.

i connected the two together. .

the idea being, can i charge it from a battery box.





at first nothing happened. . . .

then after a quick look at the install guide i noticed that the unit needs a BCM engine run feed or a +12V IGN feed . . . connected to C1 terminal.


that aklows the unit to start charging . . so a quick jumper wire connected and off we go. .




the unit quickly ramped up to 45A charging power from my battery box. . .




...


this is the main reason the EcoFlow Delta2 and other portable boxes have issues being fitted in the van. . slow 8A charge speed.

well not with the Clayton - Bang 45A charging speed, just like that.

infact you can add a super charger that doubles the charge speed to 90A !!!!!!! (a second 50A fused connection to the starter battery is needed, effectivly its a double dc-dc charger setup ) - not that is FAST !!






keeping an eye on the cable and connections for heat build up . . as 45A is a lot of power,

i come across the internal monitoring screen for temps and cell voltages . .



and also come across the DC IN current limiter. . . SWEET !!!!

so you can limit the DC IN charge current from 10-45A, very nice. . .

so i dropped to 10A charge rate and went from there.

i could that the 4AWG cable and Anderson didn't get warm (in free air) - FROM 10-30A.

then started to get warm at 40-45A,... but didn't get hot.

this shows the POWEROAD APP for the BMS of the battery box that was charging the clayton . .





.


...





so thats that then,

its got a built in dc-dc charger, that will charge from a running engine. . . or standalone battery box.


...


the SOLAR input used the C2 terminal.

i bridged a jumper wire over to test the input from the battery feed, and it worked as expected. . .

so just need to wait for some sun to connect some panels up to it.

the PV input shows 400W, with a VOC max of 50V - nice touch Clayton.

Solar input charging power (max.)	400W
Solar input voltage	15 – 50 VDC
Solar input charging current (max.)	15 A

so that 240v mains charging tested,

12v in tested

solar in tested.

so far so good.

the SUPER charger looks awesome, but its again pricy. . . an for a leisure setup im not sure it warrants 90A charge rate from the engine.

in sure 45A is more that enough, with the options of solar and EHU


.

 

[Dellmassive]

240v INVERTER . . . 2500w

AC Output frequency	50 Hz
AC output power – Continuously (ambient temp)	2300 W
AC output power - 10 min.	2500 W
AC output power - Peak	4000 W
AC output power - AC In connected	3000 W
AC output efficiency (1000W)	94%

well, it says 2300w contiuos at ambient,

and 2500w for 10mins,

and a peak of 4000w.

it had no trouble with the 1700w coffee machine, . . . with the internal fans only coming on when the load kicked in.




it run the2200w hairdryer fine. . .


so there is no issue with the power it can deliver. . .


but,

what about the efficiency?


we all know that the inverter circuit will us power just being switch on. . . . with no loads.

so lets test that.

the spec states 94% @ 1000w,

and states self consumtion. with DC mode, - but not AC mode

Self-discharge rate per month	< 5%
Self consumption - Operating mode, Only DC Output active	< 1 W

+++


i charged to 100% SoC,

then set the AC ON, and turned off the AC low power mode. . .

++++

oh yeh, did i mention that?

the unit has a LOW POWER mode, where you set a low wattage point, say 20W and a timer, say 60min - defaults.

then when the wattage drops lower than 20w for 60mins, the unit switches off.

once its off . . . its off and you have to manually switch it back on.. .

its not like the Victron inverters that monitor the load and will restart is a load above the set point is detected.

+++++


back to the test. . . charged to 100%, switch AC ON. (29/8pm)




an hour later we show: 97% (29/9pm)




the following morning we was 65% (30/8am)





+++


so im thinking quick maths,

from 8pm to 8am is about 12hrs,

and it lost 35% SoC self consumption with the AC inverter ON.

Not bad methinks. . . . seeing as my Bluetti AC1200 used 25% SoC per day just being switch on without the AC on.

..


not sure how that compairs with the Ecoflow Delat 2? - maybe someone can try the same test? (100% Soc, then AC ON for 12hrs and report the SoC)


.



so loosing 35% SoC per 12hrs could mean 70% per 24hrs? - this will ovbs need testing.

then adding my expected loads . . . .

twin 60w compressor fridges,
240v coffee machine,
240v kettle,
240v twinkly lights,

etc etc will mean that i am going to need to run the 45A engine charger for some time each day when wild/remote camping (ie no EHU)


or


do as i do now and fit a buffer battery to extend the run time of the internal 100ah clayton battery.










.






.

 

[Dellmassive]

So what now . . . . . . ?


well this brings me nicely on the plans for the Clayton.


....


previously we have had a Ecoflow Delta 2 while camping . . . ( a great bit of kit, and powerful too, the only let down is slow recharge off grid)

connected to a 100ah lithium battery box, thats used as a BUFFER battery . . . . that can SLOW CHARGE the EF Delta2 over a 24hr period at the 8A max via a set of Anderson connectors.




+++

now the Claytons internal 700W/45A DC-DC charger is nice, but the 100Ah internal battery is a bit small for my power requirements.

having the clayton alone will require me to run up the engine for a time each day to replenish lost battery capacity.

as an example if the battery was drained flat. . . it need to to run the engine for two hours to replenish 45A /45Ah per hour, so 2*45ah = 90ah.

that's not preferable for me,


and that's excluding any solar im running.


so, im thinking about how i run my setup now . . . . . . . . . . . and how i use a buffer battery to support the EF Delt2.

+++

...

we know from the testing above that ill need a buffer battery to bolster the claytons internal 100ah (80ah usable due to 80% DOD limit on BMS)


over to last nights fag packet schematics . . . . .











..

im planning on connecting up a ROAMER 230ah seat base battery under the drivers seat in the BUS and connect to the DC IN of the LPS.

this will give the Clayton 100ah + 230Ah = 330ah worth of off grid power to play with.

effective adding 230% more battery capacity.




++

thats great, now what about charge?

well, im thinking ill add in a 50A dc-dc charger from the engine, a Renogy or other, just like i have in the works van.

the idea being:

+++

Engine running -> starter battery -> 50A DC-DC charger -> ROAMER seat base battery -> fused 50A quick disconnect -> Clayton LPS DC IN

+++

this way i can have the normal 12v electricals in the yan running from the LB under the seat.

then ADD-IN the LPS when its needed - ie camping.

+++


whats the point then !!! - yes i can already hear you all saying whats the point then? why not just fit standard 12v install.

well here is my argument.

+++

the Clayton LPS is designed as a all in one unit - and it great for that.

just wire in the fused starter battery feed and give it a IGN signal,

add some solar,

job done.

+++

however, in my specific setup we normally do extended camping stays, say a 4 day Thursday to Monday. - plotted up, in a feils, not driving nowhere.

that means the LPS battery will run flat.

that means i need to run the van engine to recharge, or add larger solar assuming it summer.

or

add more battery storage . . .

so that's what I'm doing . . . adding more battery storage . . . . to extend my off grid run time.


+++


and the only way to add more storage to the LPS atm is to add another battery to the DC IN port, that means that its before the internal LPS dc-dc charger,.

that means you need to run your own DC-DC charger and battery for this setup.


+++



now I've heard that Clayton are looking to add LPS second battery's, and a BT APP etc. . . . but those are not available ATM.


so ill build my own solution.


+++++++++++++++++++++






.

















.

 

[Dellmassive]

whats the EHU bit for on your Fag Packet schematic?





...



taking the install one step further. . .


what about adding in the EHU?

the LPS has a very capable 240v charger, - wouldnt it be nice to plu in the van to EHU and charge the LPS?

yep, ok lets add that then.


im looking at adding a EHU IN point under the bonnet. . that can feed a standard EHU CU. . .




and then that can feed a 13A socket near the LPS that the mains charger lead can be plugged into.




i also showed a separate socket of the CU in the event that the van is being used without the LPS.


.....

then i show a other seperate 240v out that is coming from the LPS . . . . thats the standard 240v AC out.

the LPS has a 3pin socket on the front, and also a hard wired point at the rear, . . . you can use either,

the LPS also has its own RCBO fitted for the AC side of things. (PE earthing arrangements TBC)






++++++++++


there is also a separate AC OUT being run back up to the Bonnet area. . . in my diagram


this is for the setup when off grid and that we can have 240v AC OUT from the LPS upto the bonnet area,

so we can run EHU leads out to the tent/awning area for extras outside the van.

atm we have been running EHU cables out the window from the EF Delta2, so having a mains point outside the locked van is preferable. . .













.




.


.




oh,


also when we have external EHU connected.


as well as direct charging the LPS is its fitted.


i also show a 12vdc charger, that will be used to charge the 230ah seat base battery . .


ill most likely fit one of my Victron IP65 chargers . . .






.

 

[denz1968]

Great write up @Dellmassive . We love our Clayton unit having used it for 7 months approx

 

[Dellmassive]

Great write up @Dellmassive . We love our Clayton unit having used it for 7 months approx

Which model version have you got.?

How do you use it in the van?

Can you post some pictures of how you've got it set up?

 

[roadtripper]

Blimey he's only gone and done it

Those AC locking plugs are Powercon connectors, very common in the theatre lighting and events industry. They are very robust and have a locking action and good for 20amp and have zero exposed conductors in either plug or socket. They're about the same size as the common IEC ("Kettle") connectors but better in every way (IEC are 10amp and shake loose as soon as you can't get to them) the only thing they lack is waterproofing otherwise they'd replace the standard 16A Commando type connections.

PowerCON Connector Splitters & Adaptors - Essential Supplies UK

Looking for PowerCON connector splitters & adaptors? Look no further than Essential Supplies. We have a wide selection, so you can find the perfect power solution for your needs. 01752 817 140

www.essentialsupplies.co.uk

Clayton are also correctly using the Type A/Blue variant for power input and Type B/Grey for power output. This means there is no chance of them being plugged in the wrong way around as you try and connect it back in the dark of a cupboard

If you look at the connectors a Type A is the mirror image of a Type B - a very neat way of using the same design and operating principle to have two deliberately incompatible types for safety.

 

[Bundy88]

I have the LPS II 3000 in mine...Knights conversion
So far so good and does pretty much all we need.
Linked to the hook up for on-site charging (rarely needed) and 3 x 100w solar on the roof
Hoping that when they finally sort the app they have a bluetooth attachment if it's not built in the older ones. Mines in a cupboard and very hard to access the screen, so it'd be nice to see what it's up to and what's left as the 5 leds on the remote don't tell you a great deal!

 

[Dellmassive]

I have the LPS II 3000 in mine...Knights conversion
So far so good and does pretty much all we need.
Linked to the hook up for on-site charging (rarely needed) and 3 x 100w solar on the roof
Hoping that when they finally sort the app they have a bluetooth attachment if it's not built in the older ones. Mines in a cupboard and very hard to access the screen, so it'd be nice to see what it's up to and what's left as the 5 leds on the remote don't tell you a great deal!

same as above, can you post any pics?

what do you plug into it to run?

 

[Bundy88]

Pics tricky as it's in the 'b*****d' cupboard that requires the seat sliding as far as poss back or forwards to get into it...might try tomorrow in daylight as curious what's in the cupboard as really don't go in there often!
Has a fitted double induction hob permanently plugged into the front, sockets 240v and 12v run of it's rear supplies.
Nespresso coffee machine works a dream, but Dyson hairdryers don't like it for some reason despite being rated low enough....spoke to Clayton about it who reckon they must have a strange electronic start with a spike and the Clayton doesn't like it (nothing trips or blows)...very odd, but hardly a game changer, just have a van hairdryer!

 

[T6 Syd]

Hi @Dellmassive, great write up as usual and very useful.

Maybe I am being simple, but rather than the seatbase extender battery requiring a further connection to the vehicle alternator and connection into the Clayton's DC in, couldn't you use the seatbase as the 'main' battery, running your 12v kit off that, and have a simpler mains charger to the seatbase battery from the Clayton?

Granted, you'd limit the charge rate of the seatbase and would only want the Clayton-seatbase charger running when the Clayton is charging (from the vehicle running or EHU), but that would be a simpler extended power bank? I'm sure an ignition/EHU linked relay for switching a charger would be a piece of cake for you to mock up

 

[Dellmassive]

looks like the BT APP is coming. . . in 2024 (not sure if its new models only?)


The Clayton Power Go App will provide access to the charging history, real-time consumption in Watt and the exact operation time. From the energy meter you can see exactly how much energy is left on your LPS and how much is being charged from solar, alternator and mains. Bluetooth in all LPS-models is coming in 2024.

LPS dashboard on CP web​

With the new integrated Bluetooth in the LPS, data from the LPS becomes available in the Clayton Power Go App as well as on the Clayton Power web portal.
Login and simply register the serial numbers of all your LPS on the web portal. You get access to a complete set of data for your entire fleet. You can monitor the entire fleet energy consumption and present dashboards on fuel savings, carbon reductions and visualize how efficient solar can contribute to the total energy consumption.

Everything you need to create your CSR documentation.






+++++++++++

not sure if they have a retrofit for existing models?



+++++++++++

 

[Dellmassive]

Blimey he's only gone and done it

Those AC locking plugs are Powercon connectors, very common in the theatre lighting and events industry. They are very robust and have a locking action and good for 20amp and have zero exposed conductors in either plug or socket. They're about the same size as the common IEC ("Kettle") connectors but better in every way (IEC are 10amp and shake loose as soon as you can't get to them) the only thing they lack is waterproofing otherwise they'd replace the standard 16A Commando type connections.

PowerCON Connector Splitters & Adaptors - Essential Supplies UK

Looking for PowerCON connector splitters & adaptors? Look no further than Essential Supplies. We have a wide selection, so you can find the perfect power solution for your needs. 01752 817 140

www.essentialsupplies.co.uk

Clayton are also correctly using the Type A/Blue variant for power input and Type B/Grey for power output. This means there is no chance of them being plugged in the wrong way around as you try and connect it back in the dark of a cupboard

If you look at the connectors a Type A is the mirror image of a Type B - a very neat way of using the same design and operating principle to have two deliberately incompatible types for safety.

i have them on some of my PA speakers as well. a very good connector as you say.

CLAYTON list them as AC Neutrik connectors.

 

[Dellmassive]

Want to add Super Charging?
+++++++

600W Super Charge DC-DC Converter​

Multiple functionality: Super Charge for the LPS II - Charging from any vehicle alternator - Multiple-battery setup - Automatic voltage regulation.

Model Number: Bidirectional DC-DC Converter 9V-36V 600W

SKU: CD1802/CD1803

Multiple functionality: Super Charge for the LPS II - Charging from any vehicle alternator - Multiple-battery setup - Automatic voltage regulation.

Electrical characteristics​

Supply Voltage: 10,9 V - 32 V

Input Current: 0-45 A

Output Voltage: 14,4 V or 28,8 V

Output Current: 0-40 A

Specifications​

Supply Voltage:	10,9V - 32V
Input Current:	0-45A
Output Voltage:	14,4V or 28,8V
Output Current:	0-40A
Output Control:	5 stage charge
Wakeup Input Range:	0-36V
Wakeup Input (Deactivate):	<3,0V
Wakeup Input (Activate - Delayed 15sec):	>4,0V
Power consumption (Idle):	<1,6 W
Power consumption (Sleep):	<1 mW
Operating temperature range:	-25 to 50 °C
Weight:	620 g
Dimensions:	222 x 110,5 x 40 mm

this is how it connects up. . . .

it wires to the DC OUT terminals.



CHARGING FROM ALTERNATOR WITH SUPER CHARGE See the text CHARGING FROM ALTERNATOR and below for complete installation.
Connect the 12VDC input to the fuse box. It must be on the same side as the LPS II.
Attention: When connecting a Super Charge DC-DC Converter, the fuse for 12VDC must be changed to a125A on the Positive cable.
Connect the Output from the Super Charge DC-DC Converter to the DC Output of the LPS II.
Attention: If there is a need for DC Output, it is recommended to use a fuse that matches the need of the installation/usage. Max. 180 A



....





.

 

[Dellmassive]

DC Wiring from Starter Battery / Alternator?


this is whats recommended. . . and the kit they sell.

but it looks more like a generic cable set,

not sure id have 0.9m of cable before a fuse at the starter battery end.

and they say use the chassis as a NEG return, but offer 5m of black neg cable.

the 60A MEGA fuse is nice to see (instead of a MIDI fuse)


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

5 m cable set for alternator​

Model Number: Cable package for alternator
SKU: AL2101

+++
60A MEGA Fuse & Holder
RED 16mm2 power cable with 8mm ring terminals (0.9m and 4.1m)
BLACK 16mm2 power cable with 8mm ring terminals (0.9m and 4.1m)
D+ IGN cable 1.0mm2 with Fuse tap.
+++











.






........................




and for giggles, this is the super charger cable kit. . . Beefcake !!!

 

[roadtripper]

i have them on some of my PA speakers as well. a very good connector as you say.

CLAYTON list them as AC Neutrik connectors.

Yep they're made by Neutrik but your speaker ones may will be Speakon not Powercon, Speakon being the 4 terminal low voltage speaker connector. They share some very common design principles and it's often said that Neutrik developed Powercon because they were concerned when some people started to use Speakon as a mains connector (which it technically could do but the consequences of plugging mains into an amplifier output would be a disaster)

Any time you need an event or audio connector but the Neutrik one. They're expensive but they are a joy to assemble and never let you down.