[Guide] DC-DC Charger (for leisure battery) -- How I Done It --

but if you have solar connected you will always get something at the terminals effectively limiting yourself to 25A engine supply, i wonder if it would be worth fitting an isolator on the solar input so if you have flat batteries and need a fast charge (when its not sunny or your solar is nowhere near 600W) you can isolate them to allow the alt to have the full 50A ??
Good idea that @Pauly ...

A big red button with a cover over it saying "do not touch" ..... double power boost button switch thingy.
 
but if you have solar connected you will always get something at the terminals effectively limiting yourself to 25A engine supply, i wonder if it would be worth fitting an isolator on the solar input so if you have flat batteries and need a fast charge (when its not sunny or your solar is nowhere near 600W) you can isolate them to allow the alt to have the full 50A ??

Just hook the solar up via a relay such that it’s disconnected when the ignition is on? You’d miss out on a bit of solar when driving but that’s pretty minor compared to the potential alternator power.
 
Just hook the solar up via a relay such that it’s disconnected when the ignition is on? You’d miss out on a bit of solar when driving but that’s pretty minor compared to the potential alternator power.
Also a very good idea....... =)
 
Thanks @Dellmassive... I can breathe again! That's good news cos we aren't having solar fitted but if we do in the future, as mentioned above we can always fit a relay or an isolator with a Big Red Button pushy thing. :somersault:
 
My unit has been delivered but I haven’t had a chance to unbox it yet.
Not sure there is too much to worry about if it’s hooked up normally to a 160w panel and a 110ahr AGM.
Sure they could charge faster but they will still charge no? And the benefits of starter battery top up and LTD when it’s upgraded to Lithium are good features to have.
 
My unit has been delivered but I haven’t had a chance to unbox it yet.
Not sure there is too much to worry about if it’s hooked up normally to a 160w panel and a 110ahr AGM.
Sure they could charge faster but they will still charge no? And the benefits of starter battery top up and LTD when it’s upgraded to Lithium are good features to have.

That would be absolutely fine, you wouldn’t want much more than 25a going in to a 110ah AGM in the bulk charging phase anyway. And most of the time it’ll hopefully just topping up anyway (given you’ve got solar) so it’ll naturally be below the max 25a.
 
John never fitted a DC-DC charger. . .


He relied on the Sargent for charging a Lifepo4 !!!!

Nor did he have a Smart charger on his EHU.....

Let's see what happened......

. . .



. .

Now hes fitted a VSR!!!!!

Lets hope his camper isn't Eu6 with stop/start.



.....


If it was me I would have fitted a Dc-dc for lithium, and a smart charger for EHU........ let's see how he gets on with the VSR.

....
Well.... I don't wanna say... I told.you so....

But John got caught out....!

FIT A DC-DC CHARGER . . . . DONT FIT A VSR !!!!! DONT USE A SARGENT AS A BATTERY CHARGER ON EHU, GET A PROPER LITHIUM CHARGER.!!!

If John would have fitted a dc-dc from day one with a Lithium profile and used a EHU proper charger non of this would not have happened...

Now hes gone for the 30a EHU charger and A sterling dc-dc but fitted AGMs back in.....Oh dear.

Come on John, sort it out!

The problem was never the lithium batteries..... it was your lack of higher voltage lithium charge profile because you never fitted a dc-dc or proper EHU charger from day#1.

looks like @Grim Reaper come to the same conclusion =]

+1 DC-DC charger
+1 Redarc + Victron

-1 VSR
-1 Sargent as a EHU charger

.

.
 
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Dell, Could I ask where you got the rubber battery cover? Well if it's any good that is
It come OEM from Factory with the Leisure battery direct from VW.

not sure is this is the same one, but found this on ebay:

VW Battery Cover Genuine

This came off a leisure battery from a VW T5 7HO 915 430D

L 280mm x W 185mm x H 100mm

upload_2019-12-16_16-50-19.png

VW Battery Cover Genuine | eBay


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Original catalogs of auto parts.

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battery Transporter (TR) 2006 year Volkswagen EUROPA 915000


25) 7H0 915 430 D battery cover
for 2nd battery 1


(25) 7H2 915 430 A battery cover
for 2nd battery rhd 1




upload_2019-12-16_16-51-42.png


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Original catalogs of auto parts.



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Many thanks Dell, unfortunately my batteries are going to be 353 long!

Any ideas anyone has to keep the terminals super safe on the leisure batteries, given I have swivel bases, would be most appreciated. I'm a bit paranoid at the ordinary caps coming off!
 
Well.... I don't wanna say... I told.you so....

But John got caught out....!

FIT A DC-DC CHARGER . . . . DONT FIT A VSR !!!!! DONT USE A SARGENT AS A BATTERY CHARGER ON EHU, GET A PROPER LITHIUM CHARGER.!!!

If John would have fitted a dc-dc from day one with a Lithium profile and used a EHU proper charger non of this would have happened...

Now hes gone for the 30a EHU charger and A sterling dc-dc but fitted AGMs back in.....Oh dear.

Come on John, sort it out!

The problem was never the lithium batteries..... it was your lack of higher voltage lithium charge profile because you never fitted a dc-dc or proper EHU charger from day#1.

looks like @Grim Reaper come to the same conclusion =]

+1 DC-DC charger
+1 Redarc + Victron

-1 VSR
-1 Sargent as a EHU charger

.

.
Well, as me grandad used to say “ee lad, tha can’t educate pork”
 
Many thanks Dell, unfortunately my batteries are going to be 353 long!

Any ideas anyone has to keep the terminals super safe on the leisure batteries, given I have swivel bases, would be most appreciated. I'm a bit paranoid at the ordinary caps coming off!
Have you got room to install a thin piece of ply to cover the terminals?
 
Have you got room to install a thin piece of ply to cover the terminals?
Brilliant BrassMonkey, I really don't think of the simplest of things sometimes :x3: Theres going to be a inch thick or so board behind or in front of each battery to fix the other paraphernalia too such as B2B charger, shunt for monitor etc, so thin ply can be screwed to the top of this to keep it in place and jobs a good-un:thumbsup:
 
!!! HAS RENOGY JUST SOLVED ALL OUR PROBLEMS IN ONE UNIT !!!!

Heres a new solution to LTD with Lifepo4 Batteries:

A 50A DC-DC charger with built in MPPT,

That has a lithium profile WITH Low Temp Disconnect,

That will reverse charge the starter battery !!!!!

That has a IGNITION feed for smart alternator.

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upload_2019-11-20_13-39-8-png.54974


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DESCRIPTION
Renogy's DCC50S DC to DC MPPT on-board Battery Charger is designed to give you options! This multi-stage, multi-input battery charger can charge a service battery from an alternator connected to a starting battery or by utilizing solar panels connected directly to the unit. While your vehicle's alternator prioritizes your starting battery, this unit will allow your solar system to charge your service battery first! It's the smart way to keep yourself fully charged and off-grid longer! And with multi-stage charging and multi-chemistry functionality, Renogy's DC to DC MPPT Charger has you covered whether you're using Flooded, Gel, AGM, or Lithium batteries.

If you have any questions regarding this product, please call us at 1 (909) 287-7111 or email sales@renogy.com.

KEY FEATURES
  • Designed to charge service batteries from two DC inputs—solar panels and alternator.
  • Built-in Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) to maximize the solar power.
  • 3-phase charging profile (Bulk, Boost, and Float) ensures your service battery will be accurately charged at the correct voltage levels to 100%.
  • Built-in Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) for easy setup with traditional alternators.
  • Compatible with smart alternators (with variable output voltage).
  • Trickle charges the starting battery via solar panels if the service battery is fully charged.
  • Isolation of the starting battery and the service battery.
  • Temperature and voltage compensation features prolong battery life and improve system performance.
  • Smart Protection Features: battery isolation, over-voltage protection, battery temperature protection, over-current protection, overheat protection, reverse current protection, solar panel and alternator reverse polarity protection.
  • Compatible with multiple battery types: AGM, GEL, Flooded, and Lithium.
  • Compact with a sturdy design, it was built tough for all conditions.
.

SPECIFICATIONS
System Voltage : 12VDC Battery Voltage Range : 9-16VDC
Maximum Charging Current : 50A (25A Alternator / 25A PV) Battery Type : SLA, GEL, FLD, LI, USER
Backup Battery Charging Mode : MPPT Charging Efficiency : Up to 97%
Max. Solar Input Voltage : 25V Maximum Solar Input Power : 660W
Alternator Input Voltage : Traditional Alternator: 13.2-16VDC Smart Alternator (Euro 6): 12-16VDC"

Maximum Alternator Input Power : 660W
Self-consumption : 60mA Operating Temperature Range : -22°F~149°F / ﹣35°C~65°C
Dimensions : 9.6 x 5.7 x 3.0 in / 244 x 146 x 77 mm Weight : 3.13 lbs / 1.42 kg

WARRANTY INFORMATION
Accessories 1-year material warranty


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some details from the install,

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DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

https://www.renogy.com/content/RBC50D1S-G1/RRBC50D1S-G1-Manual.pdf

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renogy-DC-..._1_3?keywords=renogy+dc&qid=1574256131&sr=8-3

***********************************

fwiw I've just gone on Amazon UK and grabbed one.

So as posted elsewhere I have fallen for a deal on a TN100 Lithium battery and am looking at drawing up my wiring for this Renogy unit.
Quick question, it’s going under the passenger seat where I know from searching the forum that there is no IGN live feed with which to connect the Renogy sensing line.
However further reading reveals that the are two methods of sourcing an IGN live feed. One from the SC Central fuse box and one direct from the BCM.
Which one is best for the Renogy IGN live sensing?
My understanding is that the Central fuse panel SC feed will give a 12v all the time the ignition is on.
And the BCM will cut in and out along with stop start activity.
I am not sure which one is best for the unit to work effectively.

Also, @Dellmassive you said to fit a fuse at each end of the vehicle battery to DC-DC cable?
Which is not how it’s shown on the Renogy diagram. Makes sense to me though unless the Renogy has reverse protection built in.
 
I've started to add some wiring diagrams and schematics on my other page . . . .

Diagrams, Schematics & Wires -- How I Done It --


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- Leisure Battery & DC-DC with integrated MPPT & BM2 Monitors -

- Here we have a Redarc 50A DC-DC connected to a leisure battery, (charge Aux Batt when engine running)
- we are also connecting in the Solar PV (charge Aux batt 24/7 when sunny)
- And running loads direct from Aux Battery,
- Using 2x BM2 battery monitors (one on each battery)

upload_2020-1-3_13-19-41-png.57429


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Aux Battery with seperate DC-DC & MPPT controllers

- Here we have a Redarc 50A DC-DC connected to a AUX battery, (charge Aux Batt when engine running)
- Solar PV on a Victron MPPT (charge Aux batt 24/7 when sunny)
- And running loads direct from Aux Battery,
- Using 2x BM2 battery monitoring APP (one on each battery)
- Using Victron MPPT monitoring APP


upload_2020-1-3_13-46-11-png.57440




...



***************************************************************************************************
 
So as posted elsewhere I have fallen for a deal on a TN100 Lithium battery and am looking at drawing up my wiring for this Renogy unit.
Quick question, it’s going under the passenger seat where I know from searching the forum that there is no IGN live feed with which to connect the Renogy sensing line.
However further reading reveals that the are two methods of sourcing an IGN live feed. One from the SC Central fuse box and one direct from the BCM.
Which one is best for the Renogy IGN live sensing?
My understanding is that the Central fuse panel SC feed will give a 12v all the time the ignition is on.
And the BCM will cut in and out along with stop start activity.
I am not sure which one is best for the unit to work effectively.

Also, @Dellmassive you said to fit a fuse at each end of the vehicle battery to DC-DC cable?
Which is not how it’s shown on the Renogy diagram. Makes sense to me though unless the Renogy has reverse protection built in.


The battery supply cable when using a VSR or SCR would always have a fuse at each end to protect the cable in the middle for shorts between either batterys.

With a DC-DC some people may be happy with just the two fuses at each battery location . . . .

But i depends on the location of the DC-DC and common sense.

If the DC-DC charger is in the "engine bay" or "remote" from the AUX battery bank then you need to include a fuse at each end,

If the DC-DC is directly next to the AUX battery, the just the one fuse next to the battery would suffice . . .

So it depends on the specific install, I've shown the diagrams with both fuses per cable run to be on the side of caution . . . . .

I like to fit input/output MIDI fuses on the DC-DC charger, it also makes it easier to swap-out quickly.
 
So as posted elsewhere I have fallen for a deal on a TN100 Lithium battery and am looking at drawing up my wiring for this Renogy unit.
Quick question, it’s going under the passenger seat where I know from searching the forum that there is no IGN live feed with which to connect the Renogy sensing line.
However further reading reveals that the are two methods of sourcing an IGN live feed. One from the SC Central fuse box and one direct from the BCM.
Which one is best for the Renogy IGN live sensing?
My understanding is that the Central fuse panel SC feed will give a 12v all the time the ignition is on.
And the BCM will cut in and out along with stop start activity.
I am not sure which one is best for the unit to work effectively.

Also, @Dellmassive you said to fit a fuse at each end of the vehicle battery to DC-DC cable?
Which is not how it’s shown on the Renogy diagram. Makes sense to me though unless the Renogy has reverse protection built in.
IGN feed for dc-dc...

As you have said above you can source either BCM or SC fuse box.

I had factory Leisure setup so I have the OEM BCM feed...which works great and dissables the dc-dc during stop/start events.

Most after OEM installs will use the SC IGN feed.

If imagine a side effect of lifepo4 on a dc-dc on an IGN feed may be reduced stop/start situations on shorter journeys as the Van's ECU monitors the power drain and compensates by keeping the alternator and engine running longer to keep the starter battery at 80%.

The only effect I see is that when using the SC IGN feed the dc-dc will be drawing power all the time the ignition is on.... so at first start and during stop start events.... this may put an extra load onto the starter battery..... especially if using a Lifepo4 as they will draw max current available...

So thinking about it, if running lifepo4 the BCM may be the preferred method, but the SC IGN will also work.

Some people just let the Auto detect work with no engine run feed.....but that normally backed up with a solar feed.

Also some dc-dc units have a slight start delay and slowly ramp up power to help with the inrush.
 
Thanks @Dellmassive thats a comprehensive reply and very useful.
I have been poking around under the seats and my van appears to have redundant leisure battery wiring (the red cables, one thick some thin bundled together and tied up). From reading other threads this is often found with OEM tow bar wiring looms which I have.
So I am hoping that one of these may be the BCM feed and that the thick cable will do the job for the DC-DC feed.
Your diagram is very helpful. Noted the Solar isolation, my plan is to include MC4 plugs close to the panel where the cables come through the pop top. When I start installing I shall try and post what I find out about the spare wiring.:thumbsup:
 
* New Product *

Renogy 12V 60A DC TO DC BATTERY CHARGER

DESCRIPTION
The DCC12 series of battery chargers are the most effective way to charge your auxiliary or house batteries from an alternator/starter battery. Compatible with a wide variety of alternator types, the DCC12 offers correct charging for AGM, Flooded, Gel, and even Lithium deep cycle batteries! These chargers also feature a 3-stage battery charger and multiple electronic protections. Owners can feel confident that their batteries are being charged optimally and automatically. Easily install the compact, yet sturdy, DC1212 on RV’s, commercial vehicles, boats, yachts and many more applications!

If you have any questions regarding this product, please call us at 1 (909) 287-7111 or email sales@renogy.com.

KEY FEATURES
  • Multi-Chemistry Battery Types ( Flooded, Gel, AGM, and Lithium )
  • Smart Protection Features ( Battery Isolation, Over-voltage safety, Overheat protection, and Reverse polarity protection)
  • 3-phase Charging (Bulk, Boost, and Float)
  • Built tough for all conditions
  • Able to charge an auxiliary battery to 100% state of charge
  • Increases run time of loads, such as fridges and lights
  • Overcomes voltage drop caused by long cable runs
  • Prolongs Battery Life

RENOGY 60A DC TO DC BATTERY CHARGER
Nominal Voltage: 12V Rated Charge Current: 60A
Output: 750W Idle Power Consumption: <0.4 A
Input Voltage Range: 8V-16V Equalization Voltage: N/A
Float Voltage: 13.2-13.8V Boost Voltage: 14.1-14.7V
Operating Temperature: -20°C to +50°C Weight: 2.40 kg. / 5.29 lbs
Dimensions: 311 x 175 x 68 mm / 12.2 x 6.9 x 2.7 in Terminals: M8 X 10mm, 1mm thread pitch


12V 60A DC to DC Battery Charger


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https://www.renogy.com/content/Manual/DCC1212-204060-Manual.pdf

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