Well, you might actually be right..

I am not sure where I've read it on the forum, but i think another user mentioned that low and high beam on at the same time is adviced with H7 head units and not with H4.

But that's all i can say.

Anyway, with carista you can easily program it :)
I see. Thanks.

I am still to purchase H7 units. I have Carista but haven’t moved over to the beta yet. Maybe by the time I buy the new units the ‘fix’ will have moved from beta into the normal side of the Carista app - I’ll have to check when the time comes.
 
lol.

No I appreciate that with the H7 light units, but the comment suggested Peter had used Carista to do it with his H4’s which, assuming they’re like mine, are both high and low beam from the same bulb/reflector. The only other lights in my H4 housing are the DRL and indicator.
Well now who's the H4 one. Sorry, my bad.
I can't remember if the low filament went off when hitting high beam on the H4's?
If it does then coding would fix that to act like brake light bulbs but brake lights dont stay lit for long so I'd treat a coded H4 the same. OK for flashing or a couple of minutes on a dark stretch.
 
Well now who's the H4 one. Sorry, my bad.
I can't remember if the low filament went off when hitting high beam on the H4's?
If it does then coding would fix that to act like brake light bulbs but brake lights dont stay lit for long so I'd treat a coded H4 the same. OK for flashing or a couple of minutes on a dark stretch.
Yep, on H4 the filaments swap over when you go to high beam, rather than both coming on together. Coding both together with H4 is probably not a good idea due to excess heat as mentioned. Especially in a plastic headlamp!
 
I see. Thanks.

I am still to purchase H7 units. I have Carista but haven’t moved over to the beta yet. Maybe by the time I buy the new units the ‘fix’ will have moved from beta into the normal side of the Carista app - I’ll have to check when the time comes.
H4s - It is possible.

Apparently it's an old Rallying technique to get more light from the lamps, but it does reduce the lifespan considerably.

Not advised on a road-going vehicle.
 
Question,

For testing purposes, can I have a h7 and an h4 connected at the same time? I want to verify before I strip the bumper if the headlights including the new DLR are OK.

Thanks!
 
Question,

For testing purposes, can I have a h7 and an h4 connected at the same time? I want to verify before I strip the bumper if the headlights including the new DLR are OK.

Thanks!
You mean H7 on one side and H4 on the other?

Should be no problem.

Edit: you won't want to code the Main and Dipped beams to come on together until you have swapped both.
 
Wauw..

I can believe the ones who have changed the DRL's while in the car.. that must have been a nightmare. :eek:

I already found it to be a pretty precise job while they were in my hands on the couch. The Twenty20 DRLs are also quite a lot bigger and therefor harder to insert as well.

When you know how it is done it is quickly done (outside of the car). But that's with everything I guess.

Good thing is that you can see inside the socket and know which way around to put the DRL in. What you can do is look very good at how you pull out the previous one and put it back the same way.

Socket;
PXL_20240726_143910450.jpgtesting:PXL_20240726_142805457.jpg
A h7 and h4 both connected
PXL_20240726_142758939.jpg
Difference in size: Original and Twenty20
PXL_20240726_142328119.jpg


Ps;
I Found my DRL's flikkering a bit while the car was running (in only ignition they were ok), but in both cases only 1 lamp was attached. Is that to be expected?
 
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Okay Long live the collected brain, I've got them in, tested everything before putting the bumper back on.

When manually beam leveling with the small wheel in the dash, the left H7 is making a bit of a sandy noise. Right one is definitely much more quiet.


Any idea what it could be? Doubting to put the bumper back on before i am sure.


Picture!
PXL_20240726_172124262.jpg
 
Happy with the result, the Twenty20 DRL leds are ultra bright and all and all, look much much better/modern.

Beams are definitely an improvement, although I wish I could aim the beams higher up than I currently can do. Not sure if I can do a manual adjustment next to the dialer from the dashboard?

1000060755.jpg

1000060789.jpg
 
Happy with the result, the Twenty20 DRL leds are ultra bright and all and all, look much much better/modern.

Beams are definitely an improvement, although I wish I could aim the beams higher up than I currently can do. Not sure if I can do a manual adjustment next to the dialer from the dashboard?

View attachment 252597

View attachment 252598

Not sure I can help on the noise from the levellers.

I don't know if there is any manual adjustment possible for the H7s?
 
@peter1987t Might be worth checking that your lamps are sitting in their holders correctly and that the drivers that go inline with the led lamps aren't stopping the motor from adjusting by jamming between the inside of the headlamp body and reflectors?
Pictures taken at night against the garage doors might give an idea of beam pattern and height levels.:thumbsup:
 
Hi all.

Does anyone have the THQ headlamps with the racing vision H7 bulbs.
I am going to upgrade from the pathetic H4's
I have searched fleabay but can't find any genuine H7's.
I can get some Depo ones cheap but I don't think they will be good quality.
I can get some genuine ones from Deutscheparts which are £499 including Osram Nightbreaker H7's & Osram DRL LED's
VW T6 Transporter H7 headlight upgrade kit with Osram Nightbreaker Laser bulbs and LED side / DRL

The THQ with Racing Vision H7 & Nightbreaker H1 work out at £510
Adding the LED goes up to £550

Would the genuine ones be better with H7's, or is it worth getting the THQ ones.

Regards,

Graham
 
I tried out most light sources in my THQ headlights. all of the halogen bulbs I tried were rubbish in the projectors. LEDs were good, but HIDs were the best.
 
I tried out most light sources in my THQ headlights. all of the halogen bulbs I tried were rubbish in the projectors. LEDs were good, but HIDs were the best.
Thanks, do the HID's need to be coded or are they just plug & play.
I have bought a Carista so I can get both bulbs to come on together.
 

These are plug and play. 4300k give the best light output. There is a lot of gubbins that sits outside on the headlight. Use a £1 coin as a template to cut a hole in the rubber cover in the back of the headlight and the grommet in the loom will fit perfectly in it.
 

These are plug and play. 4300k give the best light output. There is a lot of gubbins that sits outside on the headlight. Use a £1 coin as a template to cut a hole in the rubber cover in the back of the headlight and the grommet in the loom will fit perfectly in it.
Thanks, I'll look into this.
 
Hi all.

Does anyone have the THQ headlamps with the racing vision H7 bulbs.
I am going to upgrade from the pathetic H4's
I have searched fleabay but can't find any genuine H7's.
I can get some Depo ones cheap but I don't think they will be good quality.
I can get some genuine ones from Deutscheparts which are £499 including Osram Nightbreaker H7's & Osram DRL LED's
VW T6 Transporter H7 headlight upgrade kit with Osram Nightbreaker Laser bulbs and LED side / DRL

The THQ with Racing Vision H7 & Nightbreaker H1 work out at £510
Adding the LED goes up to £550

Would the genuine ones be better with H7's, or is it worth getting the THQ ones.

Regards,

Graham
Saw some earlier on FB marketplace.

IMG_7507.png
 
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£40 plus postage, get there quick
 
Hi all, looking for a thread, can’t find. Basically I used last year to replace h7 DRL with wired version. Need to do same on other side.

So basically was hoping hive mind of experts could post a link to the correct DRL holder (wired) thing I need and if poss signpost me to the thread on how to wire in?

Many thanks
 
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