heater floor outlet 50/60mm | 221000010064 These are ungainly and stick out considerably but may be what you are looking for?
Heater outlet quandary
- Thread starter 3crispies
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- night heater
The Multicontrol
Thanks, that looks useful actually. Might give one of them a go
That looks spot on actually! like you say it will stick out quite a bit but should do the job i'm looking for. Assuming i just need to get the ducting flange to go along with it? In hindsight i should have just brought the outlet out through the floor behind the seat rather than up and through the base of the seat.
Just putting the idea out there...
Hmm might look into something like that myself. Thanks
I trimmed out two slots on the sloping parts of the panel, so the vent fits flush against the flat part. On my next van I’ll probably make a flat panel.
Set your temperature at between 5 and 10 degrees under what is shown on the control, that way the heater will lower the output before you start to cook at mid-height. Gradually reduce it from the obvious 20 degrees until the temperature is at a suitable level in the van.
If you want the heater more like they should be you need to add a remote temperature sensor that you place at mid/head height and this will keep your temperature more even and comparable to the temp shewn on the controller. One of these Webasto Air Top Remote Temperature Sensor Button Type 5m - 9030883A - PB Auto Electrics Commercial & Leisure Products ( I can do one for £20 inc postage )
As standard the heater senses the temperature of the air entering the heater which is considerably lower than what the body perceives higher up.
I do have one of these remote sensors placed at head height in my unit. So by rights I should just be able to set this to the temp I want and the heater will automatically alter the output accordingly?
On an unfortunate other note just been in the van trying thus and I am getting a H88 error code. Do you have any ideas what this means?
H88 - Fuel pump interruption
Fuel pump interrupted or short circuit to supply voltage.
Electrical check of fuel system
I do have one of these remote sensors placed at head height in my unit. So by rights I should just be able to set this to the temp I want and the heater will automatically alter the output accordingly?
Yes, once it senses the matching temp the heat output will reduce. I have always found that a degree or two below what you think you want is quite adequate.
Turn the dial to the temp and press to store it.
Don't you have the manual for the Multicontrol?
Attached:
Fuel pump interrupted or short circuit to supply voltage.
Electrical check of fuel system
I do have one of these remote sensors placed at head height in my unit. So by rights I should just be able to set this to the temp I want and the heater will automatically alter the output accordingly?
Yes, once it senses the matching temp the heat output will reduce. I have always found that a degree or two below what you think you want is quite adequate.
Turn the dial to the temp and press to store it.
Don't you have the manual for the Multicontrol?
Attached:
I should still have the manual floating around somewhere but thanks for the online one. Always helpful to have.
Ah great, an electrical fault. The thing I have no clue on haha. I'll begin with checking all connections between fuel pump and heater I presume?
The usual problem is that the connectors are not pushed firmly enough home so that they latch correctly - very easy to do. Start at the fuel pump and work backwards, usually there is the one on the fuel pump then another closer to the heater, if the pump is close to the heater you may just have the one on the pump. After that there is one with black wires on the ecu in the heater under the flap.
Problem solved, can't explain how happy I am that was an easy fix. One of the little connectors wasn't properly shoved in like you suggested. Thanks! Thats enough messing around for tonight as I'll need to put all the undergrads back on. Will move onto playing around with the temp tomorrow.
Little connection that was loose for anyone else's benefit.
They can take quite a hard push to compress the waterproofing seal inside sometimes. Easy fix!
fitting next weekend got all main parts including oval grill you mentioned. I have a T piece to fit where pipe passes through floor but it is 60mm threaded is there a straight adaptor to join pipe like this but is threaded or will this fit if fixed properly..
Eberspacher/Webasto Heater Straight Ducting Pipe Connector/Joiner 60mm 9009258C - H Bowers
Eberspacher/Webasto Heater Straight Ducting Pipe Connector/Joiner 60mm 9009258C from H Bowers who specialise in the sale of automotive components.
Just want everything under seat properly sealed where it passes through.....
Not quite sure what you are trying to achieve there! This thread has got a bit confusing with all the other posts.
The threaded Tee is for those odd Eberspacher outlets, so that they can screw directly onto them, if you are intending to put an outlet directly to it through the floor it will work with Sikaflex/Soudaflex or your favourite polyurethane adhesive/sealant making a seal underneath.
You can also get a Tee with 3 plain 60mm outlets that ducting goes straight onto, you can use a Y-splitter if it aids directing the ducting. Using them the 60mm joiner can be used as a connector through the floor ( ducting will get damaged if it is simply passed through a hole ).
Presumably you are intending to fit two outlets in the van by splitting the ducting under the van? You must have one of the two vents as a permanently open one to avoid any chance of overheating the heater.
The threaded Tee is for those odd Eberspacher outlets, so that they can screw directly onto them, if you are intending to put an outlet directly to it through the floor it will work with Sikaflex/Soudaflex or your favourite polyurethane adhesive/sealant making a seal underneath.
You can also get a Tee with 3 plain 60mm outlets that ducting goes straight onto, you can use a Y-splitter if it aids directing the ducting. Using them the 60mm joiner can be used as a connector through the floor ( ducting will get damaged if it is simply passed through a hole ).
Presumably you are intending to fit two outlets in the van by splitting the ducting under the van? You must have one of the two vents as a permanently open one to avoid any chance of overheating the heater.
yeah as you said 2 ducts, agree didnt want to pass a 60mm duct through a 63mm hole unprotected in metal floor so wanted something to silkaflex to floor as it passes through, would this joiner fit into threaded part of tee ?. What is normal method of fitting an external heater with ducting too under seat install ?
I would use the 60mm duct joiner to pass through the floor, Sikaflexed in. I used a galvanized duct joiner for mine to pass through but mine was a 90mm one ( I split mine inside the van but then my layout is different to most vans).
I ran the output duct from my underslung heater, across to the passenger side. Outlet then blows into the big space behind the passenger seat. Didn't want it blowing at the fridge and the drivers underseat is already busy with battery, CTEK etc. Flat base plate on the seat though, so no help on the original post.
That is certainly the best area to have the outlet but getting the duct over the exhaust is a bit of a pain. I've done it with one conversion and as luck will have it in the last two that I have done they have been pre Adblue so I've been able to shoehorn a heater into the space which is now taken up with the Adblue tank. Thus the outlet can be easily fitted under the left front seat.
Of course if we all drove LHD vans with the heater under the right front floor it would blow out in the right area just like it does on a Cali etc! All our fault for having RHD vehicles.
That rectangular outlet is far better than having a round one jammed in looking odd.
Code 15, combustion fan blocked - check that the heater casing isn't touching any mount/bodywork distorting the heater casing slightly, it only takes a mm or so to cause contact with the fan. Also check that the in-ducting hasn't dislodged the end cap causing the same.
Code 15, combustion fan blocked - check that the heater casing isn't touching any mount/bodywork distorting the heater casing slightly, it only takes a mm or so to cause contact with the fan. Also check that the in-ducting hasn't dislodged the end cap causing the same.
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