Have you got a picture handy so I can see the brown wires? I'm just wondering if they are connected wrongly.Yes. Here’s a pic
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Have you got a picture handy so I can see the brown wires? I'm just wondering if they are connected wrongly.Yes. Here’s a pic
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You will need the LIN bus wire from the BMS and a IGN power feed.
Will post more pics tomorrowHave you got a picture handy so I can see the brown wires? I'm just wondering if they are connected wrongly.
I’ve not connected a live from the dash. I thought it was just the 3 wires. One to light switch one to pin 36 on bcm and one to ebox.As Lee points out, did you pick the live up from behind the dash?
Its fine, the wire from the light switch is the live feedI’ve not connected a live from the dash. I thought it was just the 3 wires. One to light switch one to pin 36 on bcm and one to ebox.
Yes that’s the one to the light switch.I’ve not connected a live from the dash. I thought it was just the 3 wires. One to light switch one to pin 36 on bcm and one to ebox.
I will check the light switch wire I’ve taken to the wheel to see if it’s supplying 12v. Thanks.How did you pick up +IGN from the lights? I remember when I did mine that I picked up +IGN from the SC fuse box because the relay at the light switch was different to the instructions and the company that supplied me the kit advised going to the fuse box or OBD port.
Worth measuring at the wheel to see if you’ve got +12v over the brown and black?
Here’s a pic here Kevin.Have you got a picture handy so I can see the brown wires? I'm just wondering if they are connected wrongly.
The wires look fine to me. Maybe some other members might spy a fault. Checking for battery voltage at pin 10 of the yellow connector (black wire) would rule out a power issue from the light switch.Here’s a pic here Kevin.
I’ve still got that engine management light on on the dash. That’s only appeared since I started working on this.
Also MFD says stop start error.
Do you think that’s something to do with it ?
Thanks Kevin.The wires look fine to me. Maybe some other members might spy a fault. Checking for battery voltage at pin 10 of the yellow connector (black wire) would rule out a power issue from the light switch.
Does anyone know if the buttons should illuminate before the wheel is coded?? That way it could rule out coding issue. I will attach the 5 fault codes below for the experienced guys to cast an opinion on. Maybe it needs decoded to see if these faults go away. Then recode and see what happens?
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Cheers, I think it's euro 5 that use pin 17, or at least that's how I interpret the diagrams. This is a euro 6 modelSome models use pin 17 for the LIN Bus
I’m testing the black wire at the light switch and it doesn’t seem to have any power. Where’s best place to use for a ground. I’m using the bolts on the door. The ones that aren’t painted. But might be crap earth. I’ve tried the bolts and metal around the steering shaft. Still no 12v.Cheers, I think it's euro 5 that use pin 17, or at least that's how I interpret the diagrams. This is a euro 6 model
Ground in VW is brown, not black.I’m testing the black wire at the light switch and it doesn’t seem to have any power. Where’s best place to use for a ground. I’m using the bolts on the door. The ones that aren’t painted. But might be crap earth. I’ve tried the bolts and metal around the steering shaft. Still no 12v.
So either there’s no power and I’ve a fuse out or I’m not getting a good earth on my test probe.
This could very well be the cause of the problem
I can’t wait to get away in it now.Nice relaxing roadtrip next week using cruise Enjoy