Hookup And Consumer Unit Under The Bonnet

Nothing wrong with that kit!

When taking a feed into the van, go behind the carpet on the passenger side. Reach up and there is a grommet....feed your cable through that and it will pop out behind the battery
 
When taking a feed into the van, go behind the carpet on the passenger side. Reach up and there is a grommet....feed your cable through that and it will pop out behind the battery

thank you, do you think that CU will fit?

In fact I should get off my lazy ass and go measure it!
 
thank you Deaky, however I’m after 2x double pole MCBs and don’t think they will fit in the one you recommended
Its been a while since I fitted them but I’m sure the RCBO’s I used were double pole
 
I used this box;


74436 x 1 Wylex 3-Module IP65 Insulated Enclosure With Visor £11.01 from TLC

and I think these were the breakers;


but I can't remember where I got them, I will check tonight...
Hi I just bought this Whylex RCBO but I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram. Hopefully you remember how you have done it.)))
I think Line 1 is the live input, the blu attached cable is the neutral input.(these are in common/ parallel with the other RCBO.
Then Load2 is the live output and load N is the neutral output. Going to the loads 10A or to the charger. 6A
I would use some wago connectors inside the unit as there are no busbars.
Is this right?

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Hi I just bought this Whylex RCBO but I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram. Hopefully you remember how you have done it.)))
I think Line 1 is the live input, the blu attached cable is the neutral input.(these are in common/ parallel with the other RCBO.
Then Load2 is the live output and load N is the neutral output. Going to the loads 10A or to the charger. 6A
I would use some wago connectors inside the unit as there are no busbars.
Is this right?

View attachment 131309

View attachment 131310

View attachment 131311
You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGER

The only extra connectors you need are one for the neutrals, and one for the earths (does the box have this already?). I can't remember the connector type I used sorry, but I would have also used these on the flexible ends, to stop the strands getting chewed up;
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You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGER

The only extra connectors you need are one for the neutrals, and one for the earths (does the box have this already?). I can't remember the connector type I used sorry, but I would have also used these on the flexible ends, to stop the strands getting chewed
You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGER

The only extra connectors you need are one for the neutrals, and one for the earths (does the box have this already?). I can't remember the connector type I used sorry, but I would have also used these on the flexible ends, to stop the strands getting chewed up;
View attachment 131542
D1004D35-1DF5-4AB9-846E-1D652D164F04.jpegThanks T6Jay, what I find a bit odd is that earth is not connected in anyway to these RCBO’s. It just passes from EHU to loads. I see some other brands had a FE cable (functional earth) but these don’t. I also read that I should connect the earth to the van chassis. It doesn’t feel right that 12v circuit and mains have the same ground.
what is very odd too is why the RCBO have the EHU input neutral pre wired? why is that?
no there are no connectors in the consumer unit, this is empty apart the DIN rail.
.
 
View attachment 131621Thanks T6Jay, what I find a bit odd is that earth is not connected in anyway to these RCBO’s. It just passes from EHU to loads. I see some other brands had a FE cable (functional earth) but these don’t. I also read that I should connect the earth to the van chassis. It doesn’t feel right that 12v circuit and mains have the same ground.
what is very odd too is why the RCBO have the EHU input neutral pre wired? why is that?
no there are no connectors in the consumer unit, this is empty apart the DIN rail.
.
RCBOs 'compare' the current in the PHASE current against the NEUTRAL current, if they are equal, all is well, if they are not equal, some is 'leaking' (hopefully not through a person!) and the device trips. There's no need for an earth connection. In 30 years of electrical engineering, I've never seen any type of ELCB with an earth connection.

Incoming EHU earth must connect firmly to a clean chassis point, I think it's supposed to be the only connection at that point (i.e. no other van wiring there). Facebook will be full of people raging about the pros and cons of making this connection, but T6Forum will be unanimous in this (I think!). So get over your feelings and connect it! If there's a ground fault in the van, and the tyres are dry, you don't want to be the human current path to earth!

I would assume that the RCBO blue wire is there to allow it to fit in domestic Consumer Units, a standard busbar will connect all of the MCB/RCBO Line 1 (or live in) terminals together, and then the blue wire will reach to the standard neutral block.
 
Hi T6Jay that explains all my questions.
Thanks for the details now I can complete my build )) and that would be the end with the
electrics)))
 
So I’m looking at doing this too… where have you guys put the docket for the EHU cable?
 
this seems to be fine on either side of my T6.1 even with the bonnet fully closed…
I’ll prob leave it popped up on a site as the driver display will warn of that if you try to drive off…

image.jpg
 
I’m thinking a nice angle bracket on that convenient solid flat face to hold this here… appreciate any thoughts?

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this seems to be fine on either side of my T6.1 even with the bonnet fully closed…
I’ll prob leave it popped up on a site as the driver display will warn of that if you try to drive off…

View attachment 132590
Drop the cable out at the front of the van - much less risk of “pinching” it when closing the bonnet
 
That sounds good, but I have full under-tray so no place to drop it through…
In the pic the wire moves easily in/out so I’m not getting any pinching and def not if I leave it popped up.

It’ll always be the same bit of cable so I think I’ll sleeve it with something… silicone tube or similar, then it will be just held and not chaffing on the paintwork.
 
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That sounds good, but I have full under-tray so no place to drop it through…
In the pic the wire moves easily in/out so I’m not getting any pinching and def not if I leave it popped up.

It’ll always be the same bit of cable so I think I’ll sleeve it with something… silicone tube or similar, then it will be just held and not chaffing on the paintwork.
I guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.
But as you’ve got plenty of play in there, it all sounds good
 
I guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.
But as you’ve got plenty of play in there, it all sounds good
Ah… yeah… I see what you mean; I’ll try that.
 
I guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.
But as you’ve got plenty of play in there, it all sounds good
Yes, that’s what I meant! To the left of the headlight, over the grill. You can almost slide your fingers in there without being pinched
 
this seems to be fine on either side of my T6.1 even with the bonnet fully closed…
I’ll prob leave it popped up on a site as the driver display will warn of that if you try to drive off…

View attachment 132590
That’s exactly where I put mine Rids. Just the right amount of space and never pinches at all, even with the bonnet fully closed
 
That’s exactly where I put mine Rids. Just the right amount of space and never pinches at all, even with the bonnet fully closed
I don’t disagree! However, EHU cables do come in different gauges, depending on manufacturer and origin! I’ve seen some terrible Chinese jobbies too. Dropping the cable out the side is probably fine, I was merely suggesting that there is less risk of pinching it over the front/grill. However, draping the cable over the bonnet catch isn’t advised either!!!
 
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