When taking a feed into the van, go behind the carpet on the passenger side. Reach up and there is a grommet....feed your cable through that and it will pop out behind the battery
I used a similar one from screwfix
Deaky’s Kombi to Camper journey
Off course they can. Completely 2 different and independent systems;)www.t6forum.com
Its been a while since I fitted them but I’m sure the RCBO’s I used were double polethank you Deaky, however I’m after 2x double pole MCBs and don’t think they will fit in the one you recommended
Hi I just bought this Whylex RCBO but I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram. Hopefully you remember how you have done it.)))I used this box;
74436 x 1 Wylex 3-Module IP65 Insulated Enclosure With Visor £11.01 from TLC
and I think these were the breakers;
Wylex 10A 30mA DP Type C Mini RCBO - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. 18th Edition Amendment 2. Protects against possible damage caused by residual current faults, short circuits and current overloads. 'No miss' tunnel terminals with in-built terminal shields prevent incorrect fixing. Allows quicker insulation resistance testing as...www.screwfix.com
but I can't remember where I got them, I will check tonight...
You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGERHi I just bought this Whylex RCBO but I'm struggling to find a wiring diagram. Hopefully you remember how you have done it.)))
I think Line 1 is the live input, the blu attached cable is the neutral input.(these are in common/ parallel with the other RCBO.
Then Load2 is the live output and load N is the neutral output. Going to the loads 10A or to the charger. 6A
I would use some wago connectors inside the unit as there are no busbars.
Is this right?
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You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGER
The only extra connectors you need are one for the neutrals, and one for the earths (does the box have this already?). I can't remember the connector type I used sorry, but I would have also used these on the flexible ends, to stop the strands getting chewed
Thanks T6Jay, what I find a bit odd is that earth is not connected in anyway to these RCBO’s. It just passes from EHU to loads. I see some other brands had a FE cable (functional earth) but these don’t. I also read that I should connect the earth to the van chassis. It doesn’t feel right that 12v circuit and mains have the same ground.You have it right with your 4 connections. EHU -> RCBO LINE -> RCBO LOAD -> SOCKETS/CHARGER
The only extra connectors you need are one for the neutrals, and one for the earths (does the box have this already?). I can't remember the connector type I used sorry, but I would have also used these on the flexible ends, to stop the strands getting chewed up;
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RCBOs 'compare' the current in the PHASE current against the NEUTRAL current, if they are equal, all is well, if they are not equal, some is 'leaking' (hopefully not through a person!) and the device trips. There's no need for an earth connection. In 30 years of electrical engineering, I've never seen any type of ELCB with an earth connection.View attachment 131621Thanks T6Jay, what I find a bit odd is that earth is not connected in anyway to these RCBO’s. It just passes from EHU to loads. I see some other brands had a FE cable (functional earth) but these don’t. I also read that I should connect the earth to the van chassis. It doesn’t feel right that 12v circuit and mains have the same ground.
what is very odd too is why the RCBO have the EHU input neutral pre wired? why is that?
no there are no connectors in the consumer unit, this is empty apart the DIN rail.
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Drop the cable out at the front of the van - much less risk of “pinching” it when closing the bonnetthis seems to be fine on either side of my T6.1 even with the bonnet fully closed…
I’ll prob leave it popped up on a site as the driver display will warn of that if you try to drive off…
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I guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.That sounds good, but I have full under-tray so no place to drop it through…
In the pic the wire moves easily in/out so I’m not getting any pinching and def not if I leave it popped up.
It’ll always be the same bit of cable so I think I’ll sleeve it with something… silicone tube or similar, then it will be just held and not chaffing on the paintwork.
Ah… yeah… I see what you mean; I’ll try that.I guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.
But as you’ve got plenty of play in there, it all sounds good
Yes, that’s what I meant! To the left of the headlight, over the grill. You can almost slide your fingers in there without being pinchedI guess Jog means you should drop it out between the bonnet and headlamp, as opposed to bonnet and wing, as it’s less likely to get pinched between plastic and metal.
But as you’ve got plenty of play in there, it all sounds good
That’s exactly where I put mine Rids. Just the right amount of space and never pinches at all, even with the bonnet fully closedthis seems to be fine on either side of my T6.1 even with the bonnet fully closed…
I’ll prob leave it popped up on a site as the driver display will warn of that if you try to drive off…
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I don’t disagree! However, EHU cables do come in different gauges, depending on manufacturer and origin! I’ve seen some terrible Chinese jobbies too. Dropping the cable out the side is probably fine, I was merely suggesting that there is less risk of pinching it over the front/grill. However, draping the cable over the bonnet catch isn’t advised either!!!That’s exactly where I put mine Rids. Just the right amount of space and never pinches at all, even with the bonnet fully closed