Ignition Kill-switch

In the days when car electrics were relatively straight forward I fitted them to my cars, I wouldn't even entertain the idea now, modern auto electronics are far too complex for my basic DIY skills. Unless you really know what you're doing I'd leave it to a professional.
If I was you I'd consider a Ghost security system instead, search on here for more information, top right of your screen.
 
If I were doing it, my thinking would be to run the main 12v feed into the ignition switch through a relay. Then your kill switch just cuts power to that feed.
As mentioned above, might be a bit old school for these modern systems.
If that method wouldn’t work, i’d be interested to know why though.

I’m sure someone who knew what they were doing would just route power from else where very quickly though.
 
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Is this not possible then? Had a word with a auto electrician who didn't seem interested
I went through this and found the exact circuit (fuse to pull), but in the end the Ghost was a better option.
 
Morning Guys, I want to put an immobilizer or a kill switch on the van but not decided on what to do. I looked as those Ghost immobilizer but they are about £450 and this is out of my price range. An advice on options?
thanks Jim
 
The complexity of the monitoring electronics on modern vehicles make this difficult, as you can end up causing problems you never envisaged. This subject has been mentioned a few times, but of course no-one will publicise their successful solution, as once it is known, it becomes less useful.

I like the idea of mucking about with the clutch switch pedal, as the van will not start if it thinks the clutch is up, but I haven’t looked at this yet.

Pete
 
I’m often pondering this.
The advantage of a kill switch is that the van can not be started if they have your keys. Not quickly anyway. And it will cost about £10.
 
More info..


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I’m often pondering this.
The advantage of a kill switch is that the van can not be started if they have your keys. Not quickly anyway. And it will cost about £10.
True on old style car and vans...

But we haven't found a easy way on the van due to the complex electrics...

Old days you cut the IGN or starter feed from the key cylinder barrell.... you cant do that with the modern electronics.

Example..

They ign keyswitch is just an input to the BCM.

The start motor is controlled from the ECM over CAN bus via a relay all in the engine compartment...the revolution speed and power drawn is all monitored.
 
The van has an immobiliser...... but is defeated if the attacker has the keys....

With a ghost, even with the keys the van can't be started.

Yes, I have a ghost and it would be my recommendation... but op says he can't afford one.

Some people buy a copy key without the immobiliser chip in it and leave it hanging up in the hallway or key holder in easy view, so anyone breaking in will find the dummy key which will open the van doors and turn ignition but won't start the van... as the key doesn't have the chip in it.

This method has its flaws as it only works based on your house being broken into for the key and you keeping the proper key in a well hidden place.... but its a £20 solution which will fool some.

I would prefer paying my money on ghost for a better layer of security where ever your van is...
 
Steering wheel lock is cheaper? .. . . . Won't do the same job as a ghost.. but its a layer.?
 
IMO a pedal lock is the way to go however I don‘t to lug a lump of steel around.
I’ve got some pieces of scrap polycarbonate sheet, I think I’ll knock up a lightweight fake pedal lock and spray it yellow. One glance through the window and they should move on to the next target.
 
I’ve got a Ghost fitted to my van, but if I didn’t, I would go with a Disklok over a pedal lock.
The reason being, a Disklok is visible, whereas a pedal lock isn’t. When the scrotes discover the pedal lock they’ve more than likely already damaged your door/locks gaining entry. If they see the Disklok they are more likely to just move on without doing any damage.
 
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