L/Battery - go large or go lithium?

[roadtripper]

Your existing charger looks like an 18A unit so everything should be rated fine for the 15A Victron:

Victron Blue Smart IP22 Bluetooth Battery Charger - 12V 15A, 1 output

Victron Blue Smart IP22 6-stage battery charger 12V 15A (1 output). Multi-stage, Bluetooth-enabled charger for boats, caravans, motorhomes, campervans.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

It looks like the existing wiring is all on the surface and in conduit so you should be able to join it, though you may have to remove existing connectors. The 240v side at least should be in a junction box of some description for safety.

You might want to check the physical dimensions of the new charger would be suitable. I'd also check that the 12v feed from the charger to battery is fused outside the existing charger, if it relies on an internal fuse in the existing charger you'll need to add an external fuse.

It's a pretty straightforward job, if you can change a plug it's not much different.

 

[Chris1983]

Your existing charger looks like an 18A unit so everything should be rated fine for the 15A Victron:

Victron Blue Smart IP22 Bluetooth Battery Charger - 12V 15A, 1 output

Victron Blue Smart IP22 6-stage battery charger 12V 15A (1 output). Multi-stage, Bluetooth-enabled charger for boats, caravans, motorhomes, campervans.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

It looks like the existing wiring is all on the surface and in conduit so you should be able to join it, though you may have to remove existing connectors. The 240v side at least should be in a junction box of some description for safety.

You might want to check the physical dimensions of the new charger would be suitable. I'd also check that the 12v feed from the charger to battery is fused outside the existing charger, if it relies on an internal fuse in the existing charger you'll need to add an external fuse.

It's a pretty straightforward job, if you can change a plug it's not much different.

So,

Off the back of your expertise…

I could:-

Cut out split charge relay, wire in able mail and DC to DC Victron.

Take out lead acid battery (75) and replace with 105 fogstar (if it fits etc).

And then your point about 18 amp charger/ EHU. (Have I understood this). LEAVE as is, and it will work?

Or have i missed that. I did my own Solar to a Victron charge controller with some mega hand holding from this forum, but literally needed a proper hand hold.

I have already bought, Ablemail/ victron dc to dc as above.

I have NOT bought any wiring yet as I need to fully understand what I need.

Sifting the above info, it sounds like for my low level needs, it may actually be that I don’t ‘need’ EHU with the 200 Solar I have currently if lifepo is installed as above.

 

[Chris1983]

I think I misread, I now appreciate I would buy a Victron charger/ EHU is that right?

 

[Chris1983]

Your existing charger looks like an 18A unit so everything should be rated fine for the 15A Victron:

Victron Blue Smart IP22 Bluetooth Battery Charger - 12V 15A, 1 output

Victron Blue Smart IP22 6-stage battery charger 12V 15A (1 output). Multi-stage, Bluetooth-enabled charger for boats, caravans, motorhomes, campervans.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

It looks like the existing wiring is all on the surface and in conduit so you should be able to join it, though you may have to remove existing connectors. The 240v side at least should be in a junction box of some description for safety.

You might want to check the physical dimensions of the new charger would be suitable. I'd also check that the 12v feed from the charger to battery is fused outside the existing charger, if it relies on an internal fuse in the existing charger you'll need to add an external fuse.

It's a pretty straightforward job, if you can change a plug it's not much different.

I’ve ordered this Victron IP22. Cos keen to get a wiggle on. Fogstar drift 105 feel like it will be right battery?

 

[ginkster]

I’ve ordered this Victron IP22. Cos keen to get a wiggle on. Fogstar drift 105 feel like it will be right battery?

I’d have recommended waiting and seeing how you get on with DC-DC and solar only. As I said before the solar alone is sufficient for light use year round. I haven’t bothered fitting a mains charger as it is simply not needed for non-inverter use. In fact the whole point is lifepo4 and solar means you don’t need EHU saving money and freeing up options for sites.

 

[Chris1983]

I’d have recommended waiting and seeing how you get on with DC-DC and solar only. As I said before the solar alone is sufficient for light use year round. I haven’t bothered fitting a mains charger as it is simply not needed for non-inverter use. In fact the whole point is lifepo4 and solar means you don’t need EHU saving money and freeing up options for sites.

Ah, sorry, thought leaving EHU as was may cause a problem? Is this not case

 

[roadtripper]

And then your point about 18 amp charger/ EHU. (Have I understood this). LEAVE as is, and it will work?

No. You either need to remove it replace it.

Having something try to charge a Lithium battery with a 3 stage Lead Acid profile is not a great idea.

But if you wanted just to disable it and see how you go with Solar you can probably do that - you'd need to remove the fuse on the 12v side and turn off the MCB on the 240v side (hopefully it has a dedicated breaker)

 

[ginkster]

Ah, sorry, thought leaving EHU as was may cause a problem? Is this not case

No, leave the EHU as is but disconnect/disable the existing mains charger so it doesn’t try to charge the lifepo4 battery. If you subsequently find you need a mains charger then replace as mentioned previously in this thread.

 

[Chris1983]

So just to be crystal clear. Photos will land as I start taking stuff apart.

I should be able to-

1-snip out SCR and replace with Dc to DC quite easily with Ablemail too.

2-replace the lead acid with a lifepo 105?fogstar) in same space hopefully

And then if needed play around with EHU/ battery charger for ip22 victron?

When I’ve watched YouTube stuff people have all sorts of bus bars/ temperature gauges/ switches etc. is this all superfluous?

I’m going to buy a load of cabling (16mm and 4mm etc and big crimping tool next)

 

[Chris1983]

Ordered fogstar drift 105.

Ordered battery cable kit for Victron DC to DC and crimping tool.

Ordered some wire for Ablemail.

I think once this all lands, I will take some photos of all laid out and folk can tell me if I have what I need.

Anything else needed?

 

[Stay Frosty]

Ordered fogstar drift 105.

Ordered battery cable kit for Victron DC to DC and crimping tool.

Ordered some wire for Ablemail.

I think once this all lands, I will take some photos of all laid out and folk can tell me if I have what I need.

Anything else needed?

The Victron IP22 battery charger to replace that Stelling unit which won't charge your Fogstar.
Regarding the lithium charger I run the Victron and have put it behind the drivers seat as why run thick cables for long runs (my EHU is in the wardrobe and battery under drivers seat) to the leisure battery when the input current is a 20th of what comes out so can be fed in a nice thin cable.
While you're frigging around replacing the battery install a shunt with remote display, I did and it tells a knuckle dragger like me exactly what's going, or not, into the battery.

 

[Chris1983]

Ordered the IP22 charger. As above guidance suggested should be good wiring wise.

 

[Chris1983]

The Victron IP22 battery charger to replace that Stelling unit which won't charge your Fogstar.
Regarding the lithium charger I run the Victron and have put it behind the drivers seat as why run thick cables for long runs (my EHU is in the wardrobe and battery under drivers seat) to the leisure battery when the input current is a 20th of what comes out so can be fed in a nice thin cable.
While you're frigging around replacing the battery install a shunt with remote display, I did and it tells a knuckle dragger like me exactly what's going, or not, into the battery.

I have BM2 already in leisure battery. Does a shunt replace this?

I have EHU in one of cupboards midway through van (behind a panel in cupboard). I wasn’t going to replace any wiring, hoping I could just take current stelling out, and then install ip22 by reversing process (I really am crap at electrics)

 

[Chris1983]

Someone had made reference to some switches too, re: turning dc to dc off I think

 

[Stay Frosty]

An isolator on the leisure battery is a good idea, I've done this as if anything goes pear shaped, ie a large fuse blowing, then you can disconnect the battery from powering a larger meltdown.
My isolator is a generic Amazon jobby and claims to isolate 300A, I've got it right in front of the battery with a 250A fuse between the switch and battery live post, belt and braces although the 2kw inverter pulls near enough 200A at 13.2vdc when doing it's thing.
I've got an isolator on the solar input in the wardrobe so I can mess around and remove that input for whatever reason.
Not sure what the BM2 is but I like my Renogy shunt as it was cheap and gives an instant graphical read out on the battery state of play, arrows facing up and power is filling the battery, arrows down and battery emptying, add in the actual amount of wattage/current/voltage involved and you don't need to guess what current a 21vdc panel is presenting via your mppt at 13.2 vdc to your leisure battery.

 

[Chris1983]

An isolator on the leisure battery is a good idea, I've done this as if anything goes pear shaped, ie a large fuse blowing, then you can disconnect the battery from powering a larger meltdown.
My isolator is a generic Amazon jobby and claims to isolate 300A, I've got it right in front of the battery with a 250A fuse between the switch and battery live post, belt and braces although the 2kw inverter pulls near enough 200A at 13.2vdc when doing it's thing.
I've got an isolator on the solar input in the wardrobe so I can mess around and remove that input for whatever reason.
Not sure what the BM2 is but I like my Renogy shunt as it was cheap and gives an instant graphical read out on the battery state of play, arrows facing up and power is filling the battery, arrows down and battery emptying, add in the actual amount of wattage/current/voltage involved and you don't need to guess what current a 21vdc panel is presenting via your mppt at 13.2 vdc to your leisure battery.

I have the BT info coming from Victron solar controller, is this similar sort of thing?

 

[Chris1983]

Does someone fancy helping organising my tortured mind? I was thinking drawing lines as wires including where I need switches/ breakers. (This is the scope of support I needed to sort my solar). I don’t know how the beer tokens situation works but I already owe many for all the help!

 

[Chris1983]

Do I ‘NEED’ Victron smart shunt? I am mindful I really want to try and get the dc to fc and Ablemail in under driver seat (ducting for diesel heater there). I am even tempted to sell the unused DC to DC for the new Victron XS if that helps with limited space

 

[Stay Frosty]

I looked up BM2 and it looks to be a blue tooth battery state of charge indicator so I'm guessing a shunt.
My problem with blue tooth info from my DCC50S or my Roamer battery is that I'm 65 and went to school in Victorian times so struggle to understand what's going on especially as with my Roamer when it tells me utter bozwellox...

It's a decent size battery at 230Ah but 414.42Ah while great for bragging rights is just incorrect, the shunt display on the other hand is like checking your fuel guage, a split second look and done.

 

[Stay Frosty]

This was how my install started but now has a 250A fuse in place of the 80A with an additional pair of 4 guage lives in parallel coming off the output of the battery isolator to the 2kw inverter, it will keep evolving.