Locking Wheel Bolt recommendation

Here's a pic of the bolt and the adapter:

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Your one seems to have enough meat on it to get loose...

As other suggestions.... make sure you are pushing the adapter Onto the bolt square while applying the twisting motion...

Oh and FYI the factory wheel bar is rubbish.... better to try with one of these . . .

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Too much angle on that for me.. needs to as close to a right angle as possible and you need to push on it whist a helper applies pressure to the bar.
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@Loz @Dellmassive thanks for your help. I'll get myself one of those breaker bars - and now for some daft questions (I'm no mechanic!). A quick google reveals breaker bars come in various lengths, some are adjustable in length and a choice of 1/2" or 3/8" (which I think refers to the socket interface thingy??!). Which means I'll also need to get a socket, so:
Breaker bar length 750mm+?
Fixed length better than adjustable?
1/2" or 3/8"
Size of socket needed? Standard or deep? Is an impact socket better?

The breaker bar will be for peace of mind due to the wrench that comes with the van being very basic.... however in this case I have managed to loosen all the other nuts with just use of the standard wrench - it seems the quality of the locking wheel nut/adapter is poor. I'll rope someone in to pushing the adapter onto the nut and see if that does the trick as currently it's as if the adapter is trying to come away from the nut as soon as any force is applied.
 
Clarke (machine mart) do a set of deep non marking (nylon outer) sockets which are good for alloys, you need a 1/2” version unless you are planning on working on HGV wheels :)
You could purchase a long torque wrench in the higher range 100-400 NM and use it to undo as well as correctly tighten your bolts.
I got ine from ebay, I’ll post a link to it tomorrow.
 
I am having a mare...…
Standard locking wheel bolts are not budging...…….clearly they were tightened up to much when tyres last changed a little while back :mad:.

I am likely going to have to use a remover and then get some replacement locking bolts.

Any recommendations for a standard Clayton Alloy?
 
Use a long breaker bar that can go at right angles and get a helper to push down on the bar whilst you press the socket onto the bolt.
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What he said . . . To get them off.

Or just take the van to a tyre garage and have them do it if you haven't a breaker bar.

The VW locking bolts are fine if you have the right kit to take them off and put them on.

(Basically saying the OEM emergency kit is a bit pants.... Jack and wheel brace)
 
I've just realised that my van doesn't have locking nuts so need to get some, but 28044SU above won't allow the centre caps to fit by the looks of them, is this the case or is there a standard fit lock nut?
I've never had to buy these before as they've always been fitted when I bought the cars.
 
I've just discovered the previous owner must have replaced the locking nuts with ordinary ones.

So I need to get replacements.

Any recommendations over the OEM VW ones please?
 
Why? I know people had their alloys stolen in the 80's but now? Every crap car and van wears them so no need to steel them.anymore. Maybe I'm naive....

Regardless, locking wheel nuts are the Devils work and should be disposed of swiftly before the head rounds off and you can't get your wheels off!
 
Why? I know people had their alloys stolen in the 80's but now? Every crap car and van wears them so no need to steel them.anymore. Maybe I'm naive....

Regardless, locking wheel nuts are the Devils work and should be disposed of swiftly before the head rounds off and you can't get your wheels off!
I can see where your coming from but if you’d spent £2000+ On a set of alloys I think you would want piece of mind.
 
.... I sold the locking nuts, they were the originals but still very weak ... I didn't want to be on a bad road maybe in the rain and not being able to unscrew the ruined nuts .... and meanwhile my wheels I am in iron, I don't think they are so attractive ...
 
.... I sold the locking nuts, they were the originals but still very weak ... I didn't want to be on a bad road maybe in the rain and not being able to unscrew the ruined nuts .... and meanwhile my wheels I am in iron, I don't think they are so attractive ...

How long does it take to slacken off and re torque every couple of weeks. I'd rather have them fitted and peace of mind
 
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