Locking Wheel Bolt recommendation
- Thread starter Neilson
- Start date
I always use tamar wheels, excellent service and normally next day delivery. I've ordered at 5pm and the arrived at 11am the next morning
I am looking at getting some Mcgard locking whele nuts.
There seems to be a few types and models. They are 60 degree taper but say they are for aftermarket alloys.
I am running T5 standard alloys.
I am also confused on the length. The 60 degree taper ones that say they are for aftermarket allows are 27205SU part number and are 28mm long but after reading posts here I need to look at 28044SU and the mcgard ones are 37.1mm long.
Is it the 28044SU I need to fit standard T5 alloys?
I do not have any locking wheel nuts at present so cannot compare
There seems to be a few types and models. They are 60 degree taper but say they are for aftermarket alloys.
I am running T5 standard alloys.
I am also confused on the length. The 60 degree taper ones that say they are for aftermarket allows are 27205SU part number and are 28mm long but after reading posts here I need to look at 28044SU and the mcgard ones are 37.1mm long.
Is it the 28044SU I need to fit standard T5 alloys?
I do not have any locking wheel nuts at present so cannot compare
Thanks cgtmiles.
It does but doesnt help, nice find. Only because I have a set of 2005 wheels on my 2016. Do I go with a set of bolts for a 2005 or a 2016. Is it the wheel taper I need to think about prioritising or the length of the bolt which is different depending on taper.
It does but doesnt help, nice find. Only because I have a set of 2005 wheels on my 2016. Do I go with a set of bolts for a 2005 or a 2016. Is it the wheel taper I need to think about prioritising or the length of the bolt which is different depending on taper.
The bolts should be correct for the wheels shouldn’t they? If you get different wheels fitted you get the bolts appropriate to the wheels, otherwise you could just keep using the same bolts. T5 alloys should use T5 bolts. You have them on now so why not whip out a bolt and buy the one that is closest in length?
This is a good point, I actually swapped the T5 wheel nuts when I swapped the t6 wheels and t5 wheels. (i had both vehicle at the same time so the nuts from the t6 went with the wheels) so my thinking now is if thats the case I have the correct bolts in terms of length so now just need to check the taper.
Hi, so thought I'd finally swap my alloys over today. All was going well until I got to the fourth and final wheel, the locking wheel nut tool just slips straight off the bolt no matter how careful I am at holding it on square, it seems this one is knackered. Thanks VW Van centre. Last people to take the wheels off 5 months ago.
In my further attempts to remove it I hammered a socket on not realising the outer ring of the head just spins. So in removing the socket I previously had hammered on I managed to remove the outer ring of the locking wheel bolt. Don't know if that's a good thing now.
So what are my options please? Any helpful advice welcome. I need to get this sorted over this bank holiday weekend, I really don't want to take off the other 3 wheels I've swapped now!
The head I'm left with is smaller than 19mm but bigger than 17mm (these are the socket sizes I have, no 18 typically).
What to do? Thanks in advance
In my further attempts to remove it I hammered a socket on not realising the outer ring of the head just spins. So in removing the socket I previously had hammered on I managed to remove the outer ring of the locking wheel bolt. Don't know if that's a good thing now.
So what are my options please? Any helpful advice welcome. I need to get this sorted over this bank holiday weekend, I really don't want to take off the other 3 wheels I've swapped now!
The head I'm left with is smaller than 19mm but bigger than 17mm (these are the socket sizes I have, no 18 typically).
What to do? Thanks in advance
I had this problem with a previous Mini, and I suspect it was me that caused it by using my air gun to nip the locking wheel bolt up many times over my ownership. Thankfully I managed to get it moving with a sharp punch and a shed load of swearing. If you go down this route, just make sure to stick something to the wheel to protect it if you miss the punch. I had a spare number plate that I drilled a hole just bit enough to slip over the offending bolt and use as a bit of protection.
I think I recall @DaveyB having the same problem with his T6 not long ago.
My mate had one slip on his Audi TT and with a 5mm flat end punch I manage to peen back the burrs around the 5 holes in the locking bolt, enough to get the key to grip. He bought a replacement set.
There are also removing tools that cut into the locking bolt, effectively destroying it to get it out.
There are a number of schools of thought on locking bolts. Some people say dont bother with them as more hassle than they are worth ie damage or loosing key. Others say do them up 10ftlb less the the specified torque.
There are also removing tools that cut into the locking bolt, effectively destroying it to get it out.
There are a number of schools of thought on locking bolts. Some people say dont bother with them as more hassle than they are worth ie damage or loosing key. Others say do them up 10ftlb less the the specified torque.
I've drilled them out before on a MK4 golf gttdi, start with small bits and increase size, as you get towards the thread size the head comes off or goes loose. I doubt if these are hardened.
As @Tourershine says, a couple of months ago I had a mare with one locking bolt. Had to drill it out in the end. Broke around 20 drill bits in the process and nicked the wheel a couple of times. Will get them refurbed at some point, but they are now sat in the garage as spares.
You may find a 16 sided socket bangs on where a 8 sided socket doesn't visa versa (not sure which your trying to use?) I've no experience specifically on the T6 , but removed wheel nuts before using sockets, in fact i keep a pot of old sockets of various shapes and sizes including imperial for these very occasions...generally something fits.
I tried this very thing; it didn’t work. Then it added to the difficulty as I had to get the chuffing socket off before drilling the bolt! And considering that you have to belt the socket on with a lump hammer, it doesn’t come off easily at all.
Agreed for wheel bolts, but for lockers that are already knackered, you want anything that will bite in to the bolt.
I guess it largely depends on who did up the locking wheel bolt and how tight. I prefer to use an impact gun as the 'dugga-dugga' tends to shock the bolt out.
Once the bolt is out tho, there is a good chance it will be well stuck in the socket..generally a vice an the BFH liberates it tho!
..... sicuramente, quando il bullone viene rovinato in qualche modo per svitarlo devi provare !! .. ma in un vecchio meccanico come me raccomanda che le chiavi siano sempre le più adatte ... in un bullone a 6 lati una chiave a 6 lati farà sempre la forza maggiore ...
Sono d'accordo amico mio, la presa a sei facce per un dado a sei facce è sempre la cosa migliore. Su una nota correlata è perché una presa è meglio di una chiave che spinge con solo 2 lati!
