Main and Battery Supply not Working after Jump Start

What is the voltage and current draw registered by either the Roamer or the Smart Shunt in the period the fridge is trying to run before it stops?

Is the fridge wired directly as practical with decent sized wire, they are very sensitive to voltage drop.

And has the fridge behaved well before + I ask as I note the battery has only logged 18 cycles so this may be quite a new system?
 
Have you checked any fuses in the system? Jump starting it might have blown something?

Does any thing else connected to the roamer work, IE 12v lights, usb etc?
 
Checked all other fused - all good, USB and lights working ok
And do you see a figure on the 'current' on the Victron Shunt or on the roamer app when you turn something on?

Does the fridge possibly have a dual 240v/12v input that switches to 240v when connected?
 
Your fridge doesn't seem to be drawing any significant power. If you turn other things on do you see power being drawn?

As I asked before why did you need to jump start and how did you do it - it might give us some clues as to what might have happened.
 
Switched everything else off and still fridge in same state - despite turning it on and off. Interestingly IPAD also stopping charge after a few minutes from initial plug in.

Reason for jump start was power draining due to warning lights on due to indicators being left on
 
A fellow camper had a charger unit which didn’t seem to do the job. He then connect from his to our van via jumpleads
 
Ah - do you mean you'd knocked the indicator and that side parking lights were on? Gets me all the time when I put the stoplock on thankfully I'm all LED so less of a disaster.

Did they jump directly to the battery negative or to ground elsewhere?

What is your Van electrics to Leisure battery charging system and is it working?

Only thing I can think of at the minute is that actually your leisure 12v is connected to the starter somehow (jammed split charge relay?) and not the leisure battery - and that might have been the additional cause of your low battery.
 
I'm assuming that's a 160Ah LiFePO4 Roamer battery so DC-DC rather than split charge? What's your DC-DC @S90MRJ - hopefully a Victron going by the 15a 240v charger and smart shunt (seems a decent system).
 
Exactly the scenario on reason for lost charge.

Connected directly to negative on charge I think.

See attached for answer on leisure battery charging system.

I’m off to sleep - currently in Spain - thank-you SO MUCH for your help, so sorry your ideas have came to nothing so far.

Any additional thoughts most welcome.

Cheers, Stuart
 
It's possibly worth toggling the charging and discharging off and on in the battery app just in case the BMS has got into an odd state and actually the battery is off.
 
Morning, thank you so much for your help yesterday - its hugely appreciated. I tried toggling the bms, no joy I'm afraid.
 
Called out emergency service to get a jump start... With this Spanish translation ready...

We have three problems. problem number one is that the battery power is low. we had this problem 2 days ago. we think it was because of an indicator left on in the evening. we got a jump start and everything was ok. we then drove here and noticed that our refrigerator was not working well. our leisure battery is not operating and our EHU is not providing enough power to keep the fridge on and the gas keeps tripping out. the van also now needs a jump start again. our third problem is that we have a warning light telling us to take the van to a workshop to reduce the oil level - I maybe overfilled?
 
The oil level issue is well known and likely unrelated. If you filled beyond the middle of the dipstick then yes you likely overfilled otherwise it's more likely failed regens are diluting the oil.

After you had a jump start did you do some significant engine hours to ensure the battery was recharged?

What do you mean by "gas tripping out"?

You look like you have the 15A Victron 240v charger, that should be enough to support a fridge. You might want to try putting it into supply mode so it provides more constant power if there is a suspicion the battery isn't functional.

Note that the supply mode suggestion is a work around to see if it improves things enough your fridge runs on EHU - if it doesn't do anything turn it back off so it doesn't confuse the situation further.
 
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