Misfire/Hesitation During Warmup

Jimbo160

New Member
Hi all,
First post here, and, glad to see there’s a proper forum for these vehicles rather than just a facebook page.

Ok, so, I bought a 2016 66 plate Transporter, recently. It’s a 2.0TDI (150) with a CXHA engine. It’s on 85k miles.
It starts and runs fine with a cold or hot engine but very soon after buying it I noticed that if the vehicle has been driven then left for a short while (maybe 15-30 mins) and the engine is warm but not up to normal operating temperature. There is a misfire/hesitation under partial throttle. As in when accelerating normally. This can be noticed while accelerating as gradually as possible, also. If the accelerator is pressed more than a quarter the way down it seems to disappear. And, once up to 90°C coolant temperature the problem goes away.
While it’s doing this, the idle is slightly lumpy, as well.
If has me pretty concerned as it’s not just slight. It feels like a full loss of power for a split second.

Any help or suggestions are much appreciated
 
Have you got anything diagnostic that can fault scan it just to see if anything is logged ?

Starting of with the basics, are you sure it’s not doing a dpf regen ? You could be stuck in a loop of incomplete regens if your only doing short trips
 
I don’t have any diagnostics tools, unfortunately. I should’ve mentioned, there are no lights on the dash. I gather this doesn’t mean there are no codes logged?

Is there a cheap diagnostic tool that’s worth buying?

I can’t be certain it’s not doing a regen. But, I recently did a 2hr motorway journey in it and it had been misfiring beforehand and also since. I’d have thought that’d have given it enough time to do a regen?
 
That would be enough to complete a regen cycle
I think as it’s technically starting ok and working ok you are going to struggle to diagnose it without some half decent diagnostic/logging kit, VCDS lead/software would be good in this situation to log engine parameters while driving but you are looking £200-300 assuming you already have a laptop
 
That would be enough to complete a regen cycle
I think as it’s technically starting ok and working ok you are going to struggle to diagnose it without some half decent diagnostic/logging kit, VCDS lead/software would be good in this situation to log engine parameters while driving but you are looking £200-300 assuming you already have a laptop
Thanks Pauly!
If I was to get VCDS what parameters would I be looking to keep an eye on?
 
If I was to get VCDS what parameters would I be looking to keep an eye on?
If you want to do some reading have a look at some of his posts and you will get the idea
As a starting point some good setups below

Also quite a few engine build-in diagnostics tests that can be run for further analysis by VCDS - extremely powerful diagnostics tool.

Anyways, more than happy to help to try to analyse data files



Ok, so, I bought a 2016 66 plate Transporter, recently. It’s a 2.0TDI (150) with a CXHA engine. It’s on 85k miles.
Service history? Has the fuel filter has been replaced - although not the prime suspect for the symptoms?
 
Service history? Has the fuel filter has been replaced - although not the prime suspect for the symptoms?
Thanks mmi. A lot to get my head around but I’ll do some reading. Looking at those plots baffles me at the moment. I’m more used to working on things with carburettors

As for service history…the van has some, but it’s broken and vague. Probably the main reason it was cheap. It’s just had a service but that was only oil and filter. There is a chance that it’s still on the original fuel filter as there’s no record of it being done. But, like you say, it’s not normally the cause of this issue. I’d imagine full throttle would cause any issue relating to a clogged fuel filter to show up rather than low engine rpms and light throttle.

Are there any physical tests I can carry out on the EGR?
 
As a starting point some good setups below

Also quite a few engine build-in diagnostics tests that can be run for further analysis by VCDS - extremely powerful diagnostics tool.

Anyways, more than happy to help to try to analyse data files




Service history? Has the fuel filter has been replaced - although not the prime suspect for the symptoms?
Last night I’d been to the gym so the van was at full operating temp when I arrived and had cooled a bit in the 45-60 mins I was in there.
It did its usual misfiring for the first mile and possibly just as it returned to normal, the EML came on.
I’ve bought Carista just to see what the code is and I’m getting the following.

P245700 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Efficiency Below Threshold

IMG_8188.jpeg

P245700 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooler Efficiency Below Threshold
Looks like it could’ve been an EGR fault all along.
@mmi , would you say this means the EGR needs replacing? Or is there anything that can be done?

Thanks
 
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Difficult to imagine how the above fault would have caused misfires.
Also the code is about EGR cooler preformance, not the EGR itself.

I believe the ECU simply monitors exhaust gas input and output temperatures (as there are sensors for those) so basically the ECU doesn't see cooling effect between input and output of the cooler. I would say worth checking coolant pump of the EGR cooler before replacing any parts.

Below a measurement of EGR cooler input (red) and output (output) temperatures - from 200 to 1000 seconds exhaust gases are fed through the cooler which cools them down very effectively. Then from 1100 to 1800 seconds EGR cooler is bypassed thus much higher exhaust gas temperature is seen at the output (blue) of the cooler.

1740933210258.png

More details in
 
I’m just guessing here but could it possibly be an air lock in the cooling system? The garage I got the van from didn’t mention that they’d changed the coolant. But it is very fresh looking.
Is there a way to bleed the system?
 
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possibly be an air lock in the cooling system?
When you open the cap in coolant bottle - does the level rise? If there is air in the system it would rise siginificantly on hot engine.

it is very fresh looking.
It should stay fresh looking for many many years.

Is there a way to bleed the system?
The filling should be done by using a proper vacuum filler.
Also could run ECU's built in procedures to clear both coolant circuits.

1740934831431.png
 
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