Interested to read how this is @Dellmassive. I keep looking at them as a portable option to trickle charge the batteries. Don’t want to put a permanent solar panel on the roof but being able to connect something like this and leave it on the dash would be ideal. Also interested to hear how it compares to the other 50W foldable one you have (was it an Acopower)Sorry, . . . . . . . . . but i just couldn't help myself.
meet the latest edition to the Dellmassive solar family . . . . .
The BlueFusion 50W foldup solar kit . . . .
I've put a link on the first post - Mobile Solar Panels ? . . . - How I Did It -
or go see it direct here >
************************************************************************************
Delivered in 3days . . . .
i dont know why i get so excited about this stuff. =]
View attachment 69125
so lets see it
View attachment 69126
this is very similar to the ACCOPOWER, But with improvements . .
View attachment 69128
.
View attachment 69129
the whole thing folds up nicley into the incuded pouch on the back . . .
View attachment 69130
spec wise we have this :
50W, VOC@21.3v, ISC@3.03A panel,
and a branded EPEVER PWM controller.
View attachment 69131
.
yes the cable is fused . . .
View attachment 69132
with a 5A fuse . . .
View attachment 69133
and a decent battery clip . . .
View attachment 69134
.
SOLARWORLD cells . . .
View attachment 69135
folded out we have this . . .
View attachment 69136
.
.
.
.
here is the user guide FYI:
View attachment 69137View attachment 69138View attachment 69139View attachment 69140
.....
and the EPEVER:
View attachment 69141View attachment 69142
...
I've got it hooked up to a Extreme AGM "solar2" , and BM2 . . . . . so ill updated this with a readout later . . .
View attachment 69127
Interested to read how this is @Dellmassive. I keep looking at them as a portable option to trickle charge the batteries. Don’t want to put a permanent solar panel on the roof but being able to connect something like this and leave it on the dash would be ideal. Also interested to hear how it compares to the other 50W foldable one you have (was it an Acopower)
Does anyone know of a cheap (<£100) folding solar panel of around 50W that doesn’t include a solar controller, so just with leads (e.g. MC4 connectors)?
I’d like to put in a Victron MPPT solar controller now ready for a solar panel on the roof in the future, but we haven’t got a pop top fitted yet. So was thinking I could have a cheap folding panel left on the dash to top up the leisure battery for now, with the controller already fitted ready for the future.
Foldable. I just assumed the controller was attached/inbuilt to the ones above (and might be able to save money if I could buy the panel without controller) but if you think it’s easy enough to remove then maybe I’ll got for one of those.
I’m curious as to why you cut and spliced the cables together rather than simply disconnecting the clips cable at the controller and attaching the new cable in its place at the controller. It looks like there is a set of screw connectors there? Was it just so you had a longer cable or was there some other reason?first thing first, . . . . . . . i cut off the battery clamps then got a fused "12v 15A plug/socket extension lead" and connected them together.
https://amzn.to/2yHRL7b
i just cut off the socket and . . . . then soldered and heat-shrink the ends together.
Hi dellmassive.
i have read this post and re read it and again and again I think I am getting solar panel blindness
anyways questions I have are the following , I think I am gonna go with a lensunsolar foldable 100w , my thinking is that with the 3x panels they will just fit on top of the dash with a bit of overhang seeing ur 4 panel blue solar panel has enough room.
I haven’t measured yet in the bus but will later. That’s the first thought.
this lensunsolar being the bigger panel and on ur advice to trickle charge my leisure battery even with the fridge on, would it be enough To still charge ?
The specs are this ....
Item Specifications:
Model: LS-100FD
Rated Power Output: 100W
Optimum Operating Voltage [Vmp]: 18V
Optimum Operating Current [Imp]: 5.56A
Open Circuit Voltage [Voc]: 21.24V
Short Circuit Current [Isc]: 6.11A
Cell Technology: Monocrystalline Solar Cells
Solar Cells Efficiency:21%
Production Tolerance: +3%
Output Type: Solar Cables, Solar Controller
Dimensions(unfolded): 1300 x 570 x 6 mm/51 x 22.5 x 0.24 inch
Dimensions(folded): 580 x 440 x 60 mm/ 22.8 x 17.3 x 2.3 inch
Net. Weight: 3.7 kgs/8.2 lbs
All Technical data at standard test condition AM=1.5, E=1000W/mm, Tc=25℃
I would for now just like to plug it into the cigarette socket with the PWM to charge. And I am also right in thinking with no load right now, they will charge both van and leisure battery through the CTEK on this method,
And looking how u replaced the croc clips u got the extention cable for the cigarette socket,
I checked the link that’s a 10A. Did you replace ur fuse for a 15A?
soldering and putting heat shrink around the joins will be ok. Just the fuse change is needed ?
Also what is your thought is between Anderson vs MC4 connectors. Which would be best ?
i might later have it just connected to the leisure battery , with a quick connector tucked under the front seat.
sorry for all the questions.
- looks like a nice kit, basically half of the 200W kit i have.lensunsolar foldable 100w
- im not so sure that will fit on the dash . . . my two dash units are 50W, so half the size. so have a measure up and maybe make a cardboard template . . . . thats not a massive problem as you can put it on the floor or roof as have shown above. (the 50w panels defo fit)3x panels they will just fit on top of the dash with a bit of overhang seeing ur 4 panel blue solar panel has enough room.
- yes, you get around 6A per 100W, and 3A on a 50W . . . . so depending on you loads or fridge power draw 100W is a good size to got with. (you can alway add more later if you need/want too)to trickle charge my leisure battery even with the fridge on, would it be enough To still charge
- correct provided you plug the solar into a 12v socket that is connected to the starter battery. . . .I would for now just like to plug it into the cigarette socket with the PWM to charge. And I am also right in thinking with no load right now, they will charge both van and leisure battery through the CTEK on this method,
- NO... the max a 12v socket can take is around 10A or 150w ish (for long time, short burst is fine) . . . . and even at 10A the plug and socket will start to get HOT after about 5-10mins. so for me running a 50W panel im putting back in 3A, but fused the cable for safety at 10A. . . . . the socket is not designed for long duration at 10A or above due to the small contact area of the +ve and -ve pins.And looking how u replaced the croc clips u got the extention cable for the cigarette socket,
I checked the link that’s a 10A. Did you replace ur fuse for a 15A?
- yes, or as suggested above just unscrew the battery clamp cables (and keep for another layout) and just fit a new 12v plug lead for the dash socket idea)soldering and putting heat shrink around the joins will be ok. Just the fuse change is needed ?
Also what is your thought is between Anderson vs MC4 connectors. Which would be best ?
i might later have it just connected to the leisure battery , with a quick connector tucked under the front seat.
well spotted. and yes the basic reason was for quickness (it was quicker to solder/join the cable to cut up 12v extension lead than it was to rummage through the shed to find the bits to make up a proper lead...... FYI I've kept the clamps and fuse etc for another day.I’m curious as to why you cut and spliced the cables together rather than simply disconnecting the clips cable at the controller and attaching the new cable in its place at the controller. It looks like there is a set of screw connectors there? Was it just so you had a longer cable or was there some other reason?